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2012 FLSTF cutting out at stops

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Old May 15, 2020 | 05:13 PM
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Default 2012 FLSTF cutting out at stops

Hi guys, it’s been a while since I’ve posted here, I think the last time I had an issue with my bike was a couple years ago when the stater and voltage regulator went out. Been riding trouble free since then, but recently developed an issue where the bike stalls when I stop at stop lights or signs. It runs around 1200 to 1300 RPM at start up and I have the idle set to about 900 to 950 RPM but I can watch the tach drop off when I pull the clutch in as I approach a stop sign - sometimes it just shuts right down. Did it three times today.

it starts right back up but runs a bit choppy in the 700 to 800 RPM range until I give it some throttle. I stopped and let it sit for a few minutes, when I started it back up it ran fine the rest of the ride home. It has done this on three of the last four times I took it out. Once it clears up it doesn’t come back but I’d like to know what’s causing this, particularly before I take any long solo rides. Any ideas? I wasn’t low on fuel any of those occasions, I still had 3/4 gallon or more fuel left when I filled up the tank. I usually run Sunoco 93 octane
 
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Old May 15, 2020 | 05:40 PM
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Is it tuned?
Does it happen when the tank is 100% full?
TPS (throttle position sensor) check
Any fault codes?
 
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Old May 15, 2020 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by S.D.M.F
Is it tuned?
Does it happen when the tank is 100% full?
TPS (throttle position sensor) check
Any fault codes?
yes I tuned it with a power vision from Dynojet. I had the same tune on it for the past several years and haven’t changed anything. I may reach out to Dunojet for suggestions and connect up the power vision to see what’s going on. No lights are on indicating trouble codes.
 
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Old May 15, 2020 | 06:42 PM
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Use the power vision to check for codes.
Try re-flashing the tune.
 
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Old May 15, 2020 | 07:11 PM
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Another thing I would do , is check all your connections . Corrosion can cause all kinds of issues , use electrical contact cleaner on them .

Some places to pay close attention to would be , Throttle position sensor , Crank position sensor , 02 Sensors , Battery cables ( Both Ends ) , Temp sensor . If you end up finding a lot of corrosion on some connectors , chances are , most will have it .

You can clean up the fuse box as well , wouldn't hurt to replace the fuses if it hasn't been done for awhile .

Check your throttle body , especially the butterfly , could have some carbon build up , which can cause a lower idle . I use Seafoam and a toothbrush to clean it up .

Agree , check for codes , may lead you in the right direction and make it easy to remedy .
 
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Old May 15, 2020 | 08:00 PM
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I hooked up the PV and didn’t find any codes. I will have to review the process of reading the tune. I’ve mounted it on the bars for tomorrow’s ride so I can keep an eye on what’s happening.
 
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Old May 15, 2020 | 08:06 PM
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Try running it with "Auto-tune" and log the data.
 
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Old May 16, 2020 | 02:04 AM
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It sounds like a dirty or faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
 
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Old May 16, 2020 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bone Doc
It sounds like a dirty or faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
I second the IAC, same thing was happening to my 08 Heritage last year.
Get some carb cleaner, take off the air filter and give everything a good clean. There's a YouTube video somewhere to walk you through it.
Hope it helps!
 
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Old May 20, 2020 | 08:01 PM
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Hooked up the Powervision to the bars and took three rides over the weekend. Nothing unusual happened. I did put in a few ounces of carb / fuel injector cleaner before the weekend, maybe it helped.
 
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