No pardon required man, I appreciate your help!

 

What he said. I've had this happen on any number of bikes, and I always solve it by using epoxy to affix a piece of metal, rubber or just about anything to lengthen the lever a bit to reach the switch. It's never failed to work yet.

 

I'm going to pull the master off again and have a deeper look at the switch and see what needs to be done to get it working properly. Anyone have any thoughts on the bleeding issue?

 

My 08 heritage had a u-shaped bent brass piece that covered the blade that 1 points at. It disappeared one day and the brake light was stuck on. I replaced it with a 1/4" ID piece of plastic tubing about 1/2" long with a slit in the middle. It's been working fine ever since.

 

Update:

In case anyone was wondering. I pulled it apart and the switch had moved inside the housing, must have been when I swapped bars. Took it apart, repositioned everything and it's 100% now. Also, I picked up a MityVac to vacuum bleed the front brake and that got all the air out of the new MC. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Glad you got it all sorted. I won't comment on how people have fixed their switches but I do like things to work as designed.

I have a one man bleed line that has a one way valve in it. When I changed the brake line on my partner's trike with no fluid in the system there was no pressure to open the valve.

I went old school with just a bit of pipe and a jam jar with a little fluid in the bottom. It works perfectly but generally needs a helper.

 

So I just noticed that I posted this in the Softail forum! I meant to be in the Sportster forum, duh. I know that late-model brakes are pretty interchangeable, but thanks for not ripping on me.

 

The MityVac is probably higher quality than the Pittsburg one from Harbor Freight, but
for me, the Pittsburg cheapie has worked fine for several years....

https://www.harborfreight.com/mityva...ump-39522.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-63391.html

hth,

T.