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Top Tree and fork Help

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Old Mar 16, 2023 | 02:49 PM
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Default Top Tree and fork Help

Hey All,
1993 softail custom FXTSC

Im in the process of changing my handlebars on my bike, while at it I'm going to replace the top yolk of my Triple Tree. Long story have an ugly mark on the back of mine from the previous owner and was given one for dirt cheap. I have the manual and was looking through it. From my understanding I can remove the Fork stem nut aswell as my 2 Slider tube caps and swap out just the top.
Without removing the forks and Front end. I would leave the pinch bolts on the bottom tree.

Here is where I am looking for some guidance, as I don't have much experience wrenching and pulling apart these bikes.
I know there is a spring in the forks that is going to cause some effort to push back down and get the fork caps back on so It makes sense to me to raise the front end so there is less pressure. But I also don't want my bottom tree and front end to lower when I remove the the Fork stem nut. ( It shouldn't because the adjuster nut should hold it on)
Am I on the right track here with keeping the front end up off the ground and blocking it so it can't turn and complicate the replacement?
Or am I totally off base and should approach this in a different way?

I also have the Torque specs for the Fork Stem nut at 35-40 ft-lbs
I didn't see any for the Fork Caps so Im assuming its just tight and snug? Did I miss something there?
Also didn't see anything for loctite and making the assumption there's none involved because of the grease(in neck) and oil (in forks)

Thank you all for your help,
I really appreciate any and all suggestions as I continue to learn at wrenching on this thing.
AJBikes



 
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Old Mar 16, 2023 | 04:38 PM
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You should not have to worry about the spring coming out, it is held in by part #24, see image below. You should not even need to raise the front end.

Do you have a Harley Service Manual? It can be your best friend when working on your bike.




 

Last edited by CoolBreeze3646; Mar 16, 2023 at 04:39 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2023 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CoolBreeze3646
You should not have to worry about the spring coming out, it is held in by part #24, see image below. You should not even need to raise the front end.

Do you have a Harley Service Manual? It can be your best friend when working on your bike.



Thanks for the reply, I have a service manual and am going off that.
Didn’t quite understand and was also a little nervous! Got the part switched just still stuck on how tight to torque the #11 bolts. They were cranked on but i didn’t see the specs in the book.

 
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Old Mar 17, 2023 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by AJbikes
Thanks for the reply, I have a service manual and am going off that.
Didn’t quite understand and was also a little nervous! Got the part switched just still stuck on how tight to torque the #11 bolts. They were cranked on but i didn’t see the specs in the book.

As of October 20, 2009 per Harley Service Bulletin M-1233

Harley updated the torque specs to both the Fork Cap and the Fork Tube Plug to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.3-94.9 Nm)

The updated torque spec applies to:
1980-2009 Touring Models
1984-2009 Softail Models


 
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Old Mar 17, 2023 | 11:00 AM
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To do what you are trying to do, you want to keep the bike on the ground to keep the lower tree in place. Part #11 is just the cap to fill the fork oil, #24 which you do not need to touch has the spring pressure.

All of your handle bar wires go through the opening in the top tree. You are going to need to trace the wires back under the tank and find the nearest connection point. The connector probably will not fit through the hole in the upper tree, and likely you are going to need to de-pin the connector to pull the harness through, then feed it back into the new tree. Gas tanks may need to be removed to get to the connector.

As stated, FSM is the way to go for this process, good luck.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2023 | 11:34 AM
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Thank you all, already pulled the wires and the tanks,
Got the job done lifted bike just enough to remove pressure but kept it in my front wheel chuck.
Fastened the stem nut and fork caps to the torque specs, was hard to get the new triple top on because i had the pressure off but figured it out.

Thank you guys a lot, Followed the factory manual, but at the same time I am new to reading the drawings and some nervousness as I didn’t want to make mistakes. Nice to have some helpful voices,

I didn’t use any loctite as I am quite sure i didn’t see any and didn’t want it, I think i’m right in that but correct me if i’m wrong.
Cheers
AJBikes
 
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Old Mar 17, 2023 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Architect
To do what you are trying to do, you want to keep the bike on the ground to keep the lower tree in place. Part #11 is just the cap to fill the fork oil, #24 which you do not need to touch has the spring pressure.

All of your handle bar wires go through the opening in the top tree. You are going to need to trace the wires back under the tank and find the nearest connection point. The connector probably will not fit through the hole in the upper tree, and likely you are going to need to de-pin the connector to pull the harness through, then feed it back into the new tree. Gas tanks may need to be removed to get to the connector.

As stated, FSM is the way to go for this process, good luck.
Hey on this note I went back and took a look at the neck, I was questioning my job since reading your message because I had the pressure off and the top tree was difficult to sit.

Does this look normal and okay?
Everything is torqued to spec but these gaps have me questioning



This is my main area where I’m concerned. Is this 1/8 inch gap normal?

The top is sitting on the adjuster Nut

Thanks just don’t want to roll around with a messed up neck
AJBikes


 
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