How do I properly remove this screw?
I THINK the 2 lowermount points on each side are where the "removable" threaded insert is currently located on each side. I THINK the right side threaded insert is shown at about the exact centre of the photo below (the dark colored bolt head with very thin line across its diameter,below the white torn-off label):
The "slot" in the head of that threaded insert is way too narrow to accept a conventional screwdriver. What is the PROPER way to unthread and remove that insert?
Jim G
I could not find that fastener on the online parts finder. It looks like for your year/model there should be an x-mas tree clip (plug) in that hole on the frame... but I'm not sure
That certainly isn't an x-mas tree clip (plug)... Sorry, I'm at a loss...
I could not find that fastener on the online parts finder. It looks like for your year/model there should be an x-mas tree clip (plug) in that hole on the frame... but I'm not sure
That certainly isn't an x-mas tree clip (plug)... Sorry, I'm at a loss...

Technically, it doesn't thread in or out. It's pushed in. If the backside is accessible, take a small diameter wooden dowel and tap it out with a hammer. The dowel won't mess up the threads in the frame.
Technically, it doesn't thread in or out. It's pushed in. If the backside is accessible, take a small diameter wooden dowel and tap it out with a hammer. The dowel won't mess up the threads in the frame.
If I owned a wine cork, I could possibly screw the wine cork remover into the plug and yank it like I would a wine cork, being careful to not tip the bike in doing so. But, I don't own a wine cork remover.
It's amzing how the simple extraction of a plug worth pennies can get complicated in a hurry.
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; Feb 14, 2024 at 03:43 PM.
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Jim G
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Ok, so it sounds like those "threads" on the "plug" are not actually threads, but rather just "ridges" to help keep the plug in place. It sounds like using a wood dowel to pop them out makes sense, IF (BIG "if") I can get sufficient straight access to the inner end of each plug. IF I canNOT, then to avoid damaging the frame paint in trying to PRY them out, I guess I could try fitting the tip of a typical dining knife into the slot and trying to "unscrew it". If that fails, then put some masking tape on the frame and use the dining knife tip to pry the plug out?
If I owned a wine cork, I could possibly screw the wine cork remover into the plug and yank it like I would a wine cork, being careful to not tip the bike in doing so. But, I don't own a wine cork remover.
It's amzing how the simple extraction of a plug worth pennies can get complicated in a hurry.
Jim G
When I first looked at the pic, I was sure that wasn't made of plastic and couldn't be a x-mas tree clip (plug)...
However, now that I zoom into it... I believe it could be a X-Mas Tree Clip (plug) from the parts diagram...
If it is in fact a plastic piece, you've been given good suggestions on how to remove it...
Oh, and I love how you called that x-mas tree plug a "plug worth pennies"....
While you are most likely correct on its cost/value.... that part is #10040 Xmas-Tree Clip @ $2.13 each, from your dealer.....
Luckily, you can get a 146 piece assortment of those clips for $9.89 from Amazon.... but then your bike will no longer be OEM...
I wonder if an aftermarket clip would void your warranty..
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 14, 2024 at 05:43 PM.
Here in Canada, if you want a genuine quick release HD backrest for a 2023 Breakout, you need to buy 3 separate items: The "correct" QR backrest, the "correct" mount kit for the 2023 Breakout, and even, separately, the pad for the backrest (since the HD backrest does nOT include the pad). Total cost here in Canada: about $550 plus sales tax - assuming you can get free shipping from either your HD dealer (located 2 hours away) or from HD online.
But since I think a backrest degrades the long-low styling of the Breakout, AND makes it harder for the rider to mount and dismount, that is an item I will use only very occasionally: when I tour (which will be rare - maybe once per year), or when my wife wants to go on a ride with me (again, rare - maybe 2 or 3 times per year?). $550 plus tax seems like a lot for that very limited usage.
On the other hand, I can buy an aftermarket visually identical setup on eBay for $270 delivered. That's less than half the cost. Maybe there is a difference in quality, but in using it 2 or 3 times per year, I doubt I'll detect any meaningful difference.
Similarly, the genuine HD engine guard sells here in Canada for $360 plus tax, fi you can get free shipping. A visually identical item on eBay, that mounts exactly the same way, is $220 delivered to my door.
Now here, I pay more attention to quality, since the engine guard will either protect the bike against EXPENSIVE damage should it fall from its stand or at low speed, or it will fail when actually stressed by a fall. But the key is NOT the engine guard itself - both guards are 1.25" steel tubing, and both will be sufficient to absorb the likely forces applied, even though both will at least get scuffed and likely also bent, and will need to be replaced.
But the 3 small BOLTS that fasten them to the bike's frame are the critical pieces in terms of quality. If those bolts shear when the bike falls, the engine guard will unfasten from the bike and NOT protect the expensive bike parts (primary drive cover, air cleaner, engine cylinders, exhaust, sidecovers, rear brake cylinder, etc). So, I plan to take those 3 small bolts to a hardware store and replace them with really high quality bolts of the same size.
But I will NOT want the highest grade, strongest bolts. Those would resist breaking even in a relatively bad fall (e.g. slide into a curb). If so, they could transfer an impact loading to the FRAME itself, and bend it. A bent frame is much more costly to replace than a primary drive cover or even a complete exhaust system. So, "good" quality bolts are likely as high as I want to go. But I defintiely want to be sure the bolts are not soft Chinese ones that would break under very light loading.
So, the need for genuine HD quality depends upon the application and the expected or likely usage.
HD quality is not consistent either. For example, the side-mounted license plate on the U.S. (not Canadian) Breakout that I bought in 2014 ws a plastic piece of XXXX. It ruined the overall appearance of the bike. And, the 2023 Breakout apparently still uses filament light bulbs for its signal lights. Hey, I thought filament light bulbs were made obsokete YEARS ago!
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; Feb 14, 2024 at 06:19 PM.












