He never mentioned a tune in the price. I am running the screaming eagle performance module. So it should tune itself with a couple switch flips.besides it's gonna be a minute till I get the 2100 together. Would you know if bad o- rings would let the oil drain back down

 

Good call thank you

 

No disrespect at no means.
I seen a brother going through some stuff and I wasn't taking no for an answer. He needed a way to get around but never asked. I'm putting the problem on a crappy Harley year with crappy parts. It was just it's time. Now it's time to get a more bullet proof year.

 

I doubt it, at least not at the speed you said the oil tank was draining....

Even if the main oil pump o-ring (on the oil pump case) was missing, it would affect pressure & flow, but I don't see it allowing the oil tank to drain as quickly on shut down as you report.

The large oil pump o-ring on the oil pump scavenger side snorkel, will greatly affect the scavenging abilities of the oil pump, and can lead to sumping while running, but not the oil tank draining back into the sump after shut down...

The smaller cam plate o-ring on the oil pump feed side of the cam plate, even if missing, I just can't see it allowing the oil tank to drain as quickly on shut down as you report.

Based on what you have described, I am expecting some broken parts in the cam chest, most likely the oil pump, like oil pump gerotors, oil pump case, or some other major void to allow the oil tank to drain so quickly on shutdown, you can't check the oil level....

I can't wait to see what you find when you pull that cam plate...

 

Any update?

 

Don't spend $2100. When the tensioner went, I suspect that the oil pump ate some of the pad material and the oil pump gerotors have been damaged, probably broken. The two separtor plates (#5, post #26) and the wavy washer (#6, post #26) between the gerotors are there to keep pressure on the pump against the cam plate o-ring (#8, post 26) which prevents oil from gravity flowing through the pump into the cam chest. If the gerotors are damage to the extent that the wavy washer cannot keep enough pressure on the cam plate, oil will flow through pretty fast; how fast depends on the damage.

I agree with others that have suggested this as a DIY project; it's not that difficult with a few tools and the HD service manual. Parts would include the Twin Power tensioners, inner (Torrington/Toyo B-148) and outer cam bearings j(OEM are fine), all associated o-rings, cam cover gasket, exhaust port gaskets and new oil pump. Daytona sells a good pump for much less than the OEM replacement. Search on the "oven/freezer" method to R/R the outer cam bearings or farm out the installation of the cams into the plate to a local shop. A blind hole puller from Autozone or Advanced Auto can be rented to pull the inner cam bearings, just be sure the right size collet is included in the kit. Use one of the cams to tap in the new inner cam bearings. I know that sounds very "caveman" but I have done it several times before buying the R/R tool. Freeze the bearings over night, lubricate the bearings and the bearing bosses and tap the bearings flush with the case, numbers facing out. Two torque wrenches, ft.lb and in.lb; the rest of the tools are garden variety. Follow the manual instructions for aligning the oil pump, very important. I don't recall if OEM push rods or adjustables are in play but deal with them according to which have been used. There are good videos on how to adjust on line; just need to know the pushrod TPI. Be careful torquing the cam cover fasteners at 10 and 2 o'clock, where the dowels are. They are prone to stripping so I torque them to the low end of the torqe spec in the service manual; 90 in.lb IIRC. The motor will rattle on start up but will quiet down quickly as lifters pump up and oil is circulating through the system. New lifters might be a good idea if more than 35K miles on OEM lifters. Johnson Hy-Lifts from WFO Larry, AKA Larry's Motorcycle and Machine are the best option. There is no need for a tune after the work is complete.

I am sure I missed something but just wanted to give the OP an idea of what taking on this DIY project entails in an effort to encourage him to take it on.

 

Wow this is what I was looking to hear. No dis respect to anyone who gave me advice on this matter. I took everything into consideration. And I truly thank all of you. Now I do know the hot cold method to shrink metal. I wasn't aware that pieces of the tensioner pads could get to the pump. I can get cysco pads for $20+ and seal kit I believe was around $40+ the adjustable pushrod kit including tubes seals and rods for $50. Honestly I've been a bit leary to start removing the cam chest because Im nowhere close to $2100. And for tools I've never had any specialty tools for any job I've ever done. I've made tools and that's at a intermediate DIY level. I will start ordering the parts and kits online. My local shops are much higher. Don't get me wrong I still support bubba's motorcycle shop. Because that's the way. For now tho my bike can't sit any longer then necessary. Thank you

 

I suggested the Twin Power tensioners because they are a direct replacement. The Cyco pads have to be installed on the OEM carriers if they have not been damaged by contact with the chain. That will require the purchase of the hardware required to attach the pads to the OEM carrier which will cost about $30 plust the tensionenrs. For a bit more the Twin Power tensioners are complete and a direct install. There have been issues with the attachment of the Cyco pads to the OEM carrier; if not done properly, the pad will come off. A YouTube video is attached; your call on which way to go on the tensioners. If you have questions, bring them back here; lots of help. Post some pics of the oil pump internals and the inside face of the cam plate. Good luck.

 

I have the Cyco pad tool, did a couple sets, but the last time I changed tensioners, for a friend, I just bought Twin Power tensioners... They are like $30 each tensioner, just too easy...

As of a few years ago, Twin Power sold Cyco tensioner pads for spring tensioner replacement pads. They rebranded the Cyco pads as "Twin Power Tensioner Shoe". They also used them in their Twin Power spring tensioners.

I haven't checked for several years, so if Twin Power has changed their vendor for pads/shoes, I am unaware of the change..

 

Twin Power Cyco Cam Chain Tensioner - 25-047 outer

Twin Power Cyco Cam Chain Tensioner - 25-048 inner

Usually about $32 on Amazon. It looks like the inner is readily available but the outers are
not. It's usually the other way around.

Twin Power Solenoid Inner Boot Power Solenoid Inner Boot https://a.co/d/i0coANe