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Pretty slick! Thanks for the link. Hate Bezos, no, envious, hell ya.
I have cut them open in many years past - The old-fashioned way, pre filter-cutter-tool . . .
---- But, it was a Rounders mess..... Oh crap, did I just say that.....
That may or may not be the one I bought. Bunch of chinese imations. Not sure how much I'll use it , but I was curious. Has anyone actually seen debris? I ran a magnet across it. Unless it was really plugged I think it would be hard to see. Same with when people look for pieces of tensioner pads.
Few years back I discovered some of the skirt was flaking on pistons, after 50k, and bit of wear on thrust side of piston. To the point nikal sil was no longer any good. It was almost the price of brand new S&S, so I just bored and went back to 95". Would I have seen anything? Not sure if you would catch that tiny amount or not.
When I do a build a keep a notebook in garage with stuff that pops in mind. Might be parts to pick up or something to do. Of you end up pulling top end to get pushrods out, I used big baggies to keep things separated. First time I did it I labeled ABCD, going along with manual and front and rear.
Even though your mechanics said not the comp, might as well pull outer cover. First time I did that I took a piece of cardboard laid out like the primary and put bolts in the holes. Though after that I left the manual open. There are short and long bolts.
Pulling the cam chest cover will just show the front. Some say they can get a dental mirror in to see rear, I have my doubts. But its a start. PIA pulling exhaust off. 1/4 drive ratchets seem to work best. I have used dog bones as stubby wrenches
Last time I went to dollar store and got bunch of baggies. Get a sharpie. Organize as best you can will make putting back together easier.
Pulling the cam chest cover will just show the front. Some say they can get a dental mirror in to see rear, .
I forget exactly how, but i was able to get a look at the rear tensioner.
well enough I could see it was worn a bit more than front, but nowhere near bad.
That was at about 6k miles ago
I may have wrenches up to 1 3/16, but unlikely sockets
just looked, biggest I have 1 1/4 wrench
KTF
Like mentioned DO use sockets.
A 30mm will work fine on a 1 3/16. I worked with 1 3/16 stuff daily.
1 1/2 is 38.1mm but an 1 1/2 socket is so common I never tried.
Good Luck
WP
When I do a build a keep a notebook in garage with stuff that pops in mind. Might be parts to pick up or something to do. Of you end up pulling top end to get pushrods out, I used big baggies to keep things separated. First time I did it I labeled ABCD, going along with manual and front and rear.
Even though your mechanics said not the comp, might as well pull outer cover. First time I did that I took a piece of cardboard laid out like the primary and put bolts in the holes. Though after that I left the manual open. There are short and long bolts.
Pulling the cam chest cover will just show the front. Some say they can get a dental mirror in to see rear, I have my doubts. But its a start. PIA pulling exhaust off. 1/4 drive ratchets seem to work best. I have used dog bones as stubby wrenches
Last time I went to dollar store and got bunch of baggies. Get a sharpie. Organize as best you can will make putting back together easier.
Born Free show a couple weeks back a couple vendors were hustling steel stands with the outlines of the various area's with holes for the bolt locations, cam cover, inside the cover, primary, rocker covers & heads, nice pretty red, all very professional. Only $125 for the small cam cover unit. Would take up more floor space with the whole set that the bike takes up Cardboard and sharpie .
Good. Trim 0.060 off the bottom of the nut and you should pull the rotor to check the splines on the rotor. Unfortunately you'll need to pull the clutch also.. Remove the tensioner when using the jam bar.
I'm going to attempt to make the sprocket stop out of poly/nylon cutting board
KTF
I have heard of that. Of a rag. I have cut 2x2 pine cutting to length. For years I used a hunk of snowmbile slide, like cutting board. I bought the modern tool which is hunk of metal between teeth. For years, and in my manual when I did it they used the steps. Some people say that stresses the crank or something. When I used that tool, I found it a little funny trying to get in place and tighten without falling out, Got it off ebay for $10-15
As said you sure had low miles. Those engines were not know for anything bad. I do remember people talking about loose comps years ago. 2003 they changed bearings. And I suspect maybe that was the issue. They used the old process, and for some reason it needed new procedure
Clutch is left hand thread. But you probably don't need to touch that. Could give low tq since are this far, flip a coin.
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Cardboard and sharpie .
