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ye
and my ego wouldn't be bruised a bit, I can assure you
KTF
And now you know where my hubris come from, because you wouldn't . I would still consider boring to 95", if carbed all you would have to do is rejet. Around $600 for bore and pistons. I realize $600 might as well be a million if you aint got it. to bad its summer, or I would spend the time and do it right, port and cam.
I'm happy for you.
I've changed three engines in two Ford vans, replaced 1 gas tank, couple fuel pumps, 1 water pump, steering gear box, and even hung a barber pole once.
can't say it caused any hubris
If i can fix my scoot, I'll be plenty happy is all
I'm happy for you.
I've changed three engines in two Ford vans, replaced 1 gas tank, couple fuel pumps, 1 water pump, steering gear box, and even hung a barber pole once.
can't say it caused any hubris
If i can fix my scoot, I'll be plenty happy is all
KTF
Those weren't harleys. And even if it is my head, it is like masturbation, it makes me feel good.
Has the existing inventory of the seals been used up? Asking for a friend as inquiring minds would like to know before buying said seal
They been used up. Heck, the Drag bearing kit has the 12052A seal. The current seal is a 12052B which I believe are likely made out of Viton cuz it's brown.. I picked one up yesterday. It's a better seal than what anyone else is selling now mainly because it can handle higher temps without getting hard. FWIW, this is the same seal the M8s use so most dealers will likely stock.
nothing in the filter
I wasn't surprised, as there's not 200 miles on it.
and less than 50 miles since the vibe/chatter that less than 60 seconds total accumulation time
the filter cutter thing is the cat's azz though
side note, anyone know how to post sound/noise it makes from a vid?
I'll text the vid I took if someone wants to post it up
Putting the filter in a vice might make less mess, hole facing up. After days in a drain pan, mine had lots of oil in it. That means you have to provide the muscle
After days in a drain pan, mine had lots of oil in it.
turn it over so the hole side is facing down....
seriously, if it still had "lots" of oil after a few hours, it's laying flat on the gasket and not letting oil out.
My drain pan has a place for oil filter to sit and drain.
You can see there was no oil to speak of in mine after drain all night
Originally Posted by Rounders
That means you have to provide the muscle
work smarter, not harder.
no vise needed.
Look what I used (my drill)
Rather than spin the tool, spin the filter .
The tool laid flat on the table
If that wasn't a KN w/nut, I would have used one of my socket type filter wrenches to drill spin
work smarter, not harder.
no vise needed.
Look what I used (my drill)
KTF
I realize you used a drill. I was taking a dig at you for that. Do you drill a hole in top of pop can too? Its thin metal.
My filter was half full of oil still. So for me it would have made huge mess doing it you way. Plus it just seems funny to get a drill for such a simple thing. There was still a few drops of oil. But would have been a huge mess that way.
I went through and reread this post.. Setting up my ignore list makes it much more readable.. Did you ever pull the primary drive off? Some of the 03 and up to the 6 speed TCs had an issue with stack up error on the drive side crank. The crank nut bottoms out on the crank splines before adequate clamping pressure is achieved on the alt rotor and comp. What you may be hearing is rotor ratting on the crank. Might be worthwhile to remove the comp and check the splines on the rotor, if not bad, trim 0.060 off the base of the nut and reassemble. You can follow the torque procedure provided in the above bulletin.. All you need is for tools is a jam bar, 1 1/2 socket, 1 3/16 socket and tq wrench. The Jam bar can be made from a 1x1/4 aluminum about 8 inches long.
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