Clutch Ramp and Ball Testing Page1
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,118
Likes: 7,643
From: Poolville
My question was directed at Gomer. It was for me since I have wonder about my question I ask Gomer. He definitely is technically.
Then you should quote him, I thought because you responded as quick as you did it was directed at me..
Seen numerous post that a cold shift netural to first bang bothers newbies.
And it always will bang/lurch till warmed up a little. Really shouldn't start it cold and take right off..
And yes, I do know how to eliminate it.
However, since you had to seem to want to lock me out of learning something, you ever stacked a 8 steel and 9 friction plate clutch. Only done two but they were tight sliding on.
Not looking to lock you out of anything.. Yes have done many clutches. they're all 8 steel and 9 frictions from 1998-2017 no problem with fitment or sliding on, they need to be snug to keep the rattle noise and wear to the hub down..
Both with a standard OEM ramp, the backoff about a half turn and the cable set to minimum had a good 1/8 throw but I just eyeballed it. Could see some plate move a lot, others not so much.
At .080, you would have about .005 play. At .064 would be .004 play. That's pleanty. An oil wet doesnt wear unless it's slipping under load.
I really was wondering why they are manufacturered so tight a fit
Then you should quote him, I thought because you responded as quick as you did it was directed at me..
Seen numerous post that a cold shift netural to first bang bothers newbies.
And it always will bang/lurch till warmed up a little. Really shouldn't start it cold and take right off..
And yes, I do know how to eliminate it.
However, since you had to seem to want to lock me out of learning something, you ever stacked a 8 steel and 9 friction plate clutch. Only done two but they were tight sliding on.
Not looking to lock you out of anything.. Yes have done many clutches. they're all 8 steel and 9 frictions from 1998-2017 no problem with fitment or sliding on, they need to be snug to keep the rattle noise and wear to the hub down..
Both with a standard OEM ramp, the backoff about a half turn and the cable set to minimum had a good 1/8 throw but I just eyeballed it. Could see some plate move a lot, others not so much.
At .080, you would have about .005 play. At .064 would be .004 play. That's pleanty. An oil wet doesnt wear unless it's slipping under load.
I really was wondering why they are manufacturered so tight a fit
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Feb 7, 2026 at 06:46 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,118
Likes: 7,643
From: Poolville
I had to clarify a couple other statements that you made in this post.. Don't take it personal but I don't want to see others that don't know be misled.. I 'm only trying to protect others that might read this post.
If you don't know, it's ok... I'm only trying to allow you to learn...
My question was directed at Gomer. It was for me since I have wonder about my question I ask Gomer. He definitely is technically.
Seen numerous post that a cold shift netural to first bang bothers newbies.
And yes, I do know how to eliminate it.
However, since you had to seem to want to lock me out of learning something, you ever stacked a 8 steel and 9 friction plate clutch. Only done two but they were tight sliding on.
Both with a standard OEM ramp, the backoff about a half turn and the cable set to minimum had a good 1/8 throw but I just eyeballed it. Could see some plate move a lot, others not so much.
This statement is inaccurate, with a Standard 18* ramp you will never get close to " a good 1/8 throw " ( which is .125" ) Lucky to get .075"
At .080, you would have about .005 play. At .064 would be .004 play. That's pleanty. An oil wet doesnt wear unless it's slipping under load.
"IF" you could get .080" after you back of the adjuster screw "about a half turn" there's no way you would have " About .005" play" and it wouldn't go down if you had " .064 play " The adjuster screw is what determines the amount of " play " or should I say clearance/gap on the throw out bearing.. If your adjusting screw is 7/16 - 20 screw (which was used on said years 1998-2017) and you backed it out "about a half turn" it would be 1.0 " ÷ 20 tpi ÷ 6 flats = .008333 x 3 flats for " about a half turn " all equals " about " .025" clearance on the throw out bearing.. Not about .005"....
I really was wondering why they are manufacturered so tight a fit
Seen numerous post that a cold shift netural to first bang bothers newbies.
And yes, I do know how to eliminate it.
However, since you had to seem to want to lock me out of learning something, you ever stacked a 8 steel and 9 friction plate clutch. Only done two but they were tight sliding on.
Both with a standard OEM ramp, the backoff about a half turn and the cable set to minimum had a good 1/8 throw but I just eyeballed it. Could see some plate move a lot, others not so much.
This statement is inaccurate, with a Standard 18* ramp you will never get close to " a good 1/8 throw " ( which is .125" ) Lucky to get .075"
At .080, you would have about .005 play. At .064 would be .004 play. That's pleanty. An oil wet doesnt wear unless it's slipping under load.
"IF" you could get .080" after you back of the adjuster screw "about a half turn" there's no way you would have " About .005" play" and it wouldn't go down if you had " .064 play " The adjuster screw is what determines the amount of " play " or should I say clearance/gap on the throw out bearing.. If your adjusting screw is 7/16 - 20 screw (which was used on said years 1998-2017) and you backed it out "about a half turn" it would be 1.0 " ÷ 20 tpi ÷ 6 flats = .008333 x 3 flats for " about a half turn " all equals " about " .025" clearance on the throw out bearing.. Not about .005"....
I really was wondering why they are manufacturered so tight a fit
If you don't know, it's ok... I'm only trying to allow you to learn...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Feb 7, 2026 at 08:53 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,627
Likes: 6,443
From: Honah Lee
I had to clarify a couple other statements that you made in this post.. Don't take it personal but I don't want to see others that don't know be misled.. I 'm only trying to protect others that might read this post.
If you don't know, it's ok... I'm only trying to allow you to learn...
If you don't know, it's ok... I'm only trying to allow you to learn...
Then you quoted and wanted it explained what I thought was the amounts in a measurement. Then you got totaly lost on what clearances I was discribing then.
What i was refering to was the actually maximum play that was available divided equally among the clutch plates with the stated pushrod movement, that was with a 1/2 turn backoff.
I picked those readings figures from Gomer's test of the different cam plate only as an example.
I have only worked with a standard OEM cam plate that give more stroke but to some cause and issue with pulling in clutch.
An OEM plat set correctly, has a lot more push rod travel. I have never had trouble finding netural. I have always found zero play by being sure lock nut is deburred by turning it in a turn past no play.
Then backing it off and finding no play finger snug. I find 1/2 turn backoff puts the lever were I like it with cable play set to the minimum.
Please just let Gomer make a comment if he so chooses and don't quote me anymore. I am sure we both know how to adjust and make a clutch work for ourselves.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 8, 2026 at 07:03 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,118
Likes: 7,643
From: Poolville
I only ask about clutch plates fit. You got totaly lost on what clearances I was discribing.
What i was refering to was the actually maximum play that was available divided equally among the clutch plates with the stated pushrod movement.
that was with a 1/2 turn backoff. I picked them up from Gomer's test of the differ cam plate only as an example.
I have only worked with a standard OEM cam plate. Set correctly, yes, it has a lot more push rod travel. I have never had trouble finding netural. I have always found zero play by being sure lock nut us deburred by turning it a turn in past no play. The backing off and finding no play. I find 1/2 turn backoff puts the lever were I like it with cable play set to the minimum.
What i was refering to was the actually maximum play that was available divided equally among the clutch plates with the stated pushrod movement.
that was with a 1/2 turn backoff. I picked them up from Gomer's test of the differ cam plate only as an example.
I have only worked with a standard OEM cam plate. Set correctly, yes, it has a lot more push rod travel. I have never had trouble finding netural. I have always found zero play by being sure lock nut us deburred by turning it a turn in past no play. The backing off and finding no play. I find 1/2 turn backoff puts the lever were I like it with cable play set to the minimum.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,627
Likes: 6,443
From: Honah Lee
I know that and I ask about the plates bring tight and how that affects the sticking.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 144
Likes: 131
From: West Michigan
SJC69,
Sounds like you are at a pretty good setting. I have read that aftermarket levers can affect cable travel and none of them list the results of their settings. I tried 1fngr levers and found that to be true. It wasn't much but it affected clutch operation for me. There is only 0.625" of cable travel with a stock lever.
Your readings with the stock 21 degree ramps shows me exactly what I measured, but didn't test, that the HD ramps are linear.
I'm glad it is working for you, good luck.
Sounds like you are at a pretty good setting. I have read that aftermarket levers can affect cable travel and none of them list the results of their settings. I tried 1fngr levers and found that to be true. It wasn't much but it affected clutch operation for me. There is only 0.625" of cable travel with a stock lever.
Your readings with the stock 21 degree ramps shows me exactly what I measured, but didn't test, that the HD ramps are linear.
I'm glad it is working for you, good luck.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 144
Likes: 131
From: West Michigan
Jackie,
I have not delved into the question you asked although it is interesting and thought provoking.
Along that line, I hate to breach this subject, but how does the oil you are running in the primary affect clutch plate separation.
Thanks for your kind words.
I have not delved into the question you asked although it is interesting and thought provoking.
Along that line, I hate to breach this subject, but how does the oil you are running in the primary affect clutch plate separation.
Thanks for your kind words.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,627
Likes: 6,443
From: Honah Lee
Formula + worked best for me in transmission and primary. Occasionally, I would clutch in and in netural, start bike when really cold, holding clutch, as idle dropped , I would butt bump the bike back a tad, bip the throttle and get little if no bang engaging first. ( A five speed.)
Rolling up to a stop light, I could easily shift down to first right before stopping and engaging the clutch, right before stopping, depending on the light, just a easy click up from first always stopped in netural.
Never had any tug or other issues. I parked the last bike, a 2004 mostly stock Softail a few years ago , at 50k still running like new. Did all my own maintenance other then a couple freebys under simple warranty work.
I passed it on free to a son.
My guess is the tight fit of the clutch disks keep them square to the shaft when you pull in the clutch. If they wobbled, the touching could make things erratic.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 8, 2026 at 10:06 AM.
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