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I would think that if you open the pipes by removing the baffle your gonna lose a lot of back pressure causing your A/F ratio to shift as well so you would have to re-map your ECM/ fuel management module to compensate.
Da Bone
The BCT baffles keep your back pressure. My torque actually increased from stock with the BCT
Is it a plug and play install, do u have to remap the bike or anything like that? Or is it as simple as removing big radious baffles and installing the big city thunder ones?
Is it a plug and play install, do u have to remap the bike or anything like that? Or is it as simple as removing big radious baffles and installing the big city thunder ones?
I didn't have to remap anything , my bikeran better with the thundermonster baffles , better -throttle - midrange- deeper - louder .You have to remove the V&H baffles , remove the back two (lower)heat shields and drill two1 1/4holes , one in each pipe, (you don't have to remove the pipes off the bike) .Simple installation and they come with very good detailed instructions . Here is a pic with the thunder monster baffles installed in my big radius .
As far asI know they make one espicially for the BR pipe because of the curve
BCT baffle is not curved. It is a hair smaller diameter. It also has to stick in the pipe further. You will have to drill new holes in you pipes. No big deal though, I just removed both heat shields and did it with the pipes still on the bike.
As far as removing the stock baffles....I used a seal puller. It worked great.
I forgot they aren't curved. It's been a while since they were installed. Thanks for the correction..
I bought the BCT baffles for my big radius pipes and attempted the install yesterday as well.
Problem was the first baffle came out with no issues but the second one would not budge. at all. even after applying heat. Any ideas on what to do? I didn't realize the stock V&H baffles were so long.
My suggestion would be not to mess with the stock baffles. I have a friend who did the BCT's and they work and sound awesome.
I used a rubber mallet and needle nose pliers and pulled while banged on the pipe.
Apostle-
This is what I did with my V&H BR's, I cutt off 6"s and thats what I worked with. Bought some thumb/paddle screws from Lowes then two 1/2" nuts and some washers. This has probably been done a hundo times or so but it does give the engine enough back pressure and they were dyno'd just fine. Good luck:
When I did my baffles the one came out nice the other took a couple of hours and a home made slide hammer. I took a piece of threaded rod 1/2 in diameter about a foot long and sandwiched three heavy washers together on the one end between a couple of hex nuts. The washer diameter just fit inside the baffle but would not go by the oval weldnut inside the baffle. I took a Makita grinder and made a notch in the washers so they would just go beyond the weldnut, then spin the readythread and washer settup a little so now you have a grip on the backside of the oval welnut. Slip something heavy on the end of the readythread put on a hexnut and slam away, you may have to spin the washers if the edge starts to round off. I put in the BCT QQs and love em. PC-v and SE heavy breather. Mike
Yea...it helps to douse the baffles with WD40 prior to removal for some reason the bottom baffle gave me the worst problems...took a few hours to get out.
How much louder are the BR pipes without the baffles? Is it really worth taking the V&H baffles out for the noise? Is the loss in low end torque drastic or acceptible? I've been debating on taking the baffles out on mine. Well, first I tried and they wouldn't budge. Now, that I see you guys just used lots of WD-40 and patience I'm considering it. But, is it really worth it. Is the noise gain worth the performance loss? I do have the V&H fuelpak so fuel management would be taken care of.
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