Adjusting Unknown Suspension. Please help!!
Instructions:
1. Determine whether your suspension is too stiff or too soft for your liking. Take into consideration whether or not you will be riding solo or 2-up most of the time.
2. With a white paint pen, put a mark on the face of your adjuster plate at the 6 oâclock position. This will be your starting position. Do this to both shocks (See Picture #1).
3. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, break the adjuster nut free from the adjuster plate by turning the nut counterclockwise (See Picture # 4).
If you are adjusting for a heavier weight (stiffer ride) (See Picture #2):
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 oâclock position.
C. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
D. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
If you are adjusting for a lighter weight (softer ride) (See Picture #2):
A. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 oâclock position.
B. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
C. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
Note: - When you turn the adjuster nut - only the adjuster nut should turn.
- When you turn the front nut - only the front nut should turn.
- When you turn the adjuster plate - the canister might turn too. Some people find it easier to turn the adjuster plate and the canister at the same time.
- If the canister turns or not - it doesn't matter - the canister does not affect the outcome.
There are a limited number of threads. Count the number of threads visible. (See Picture #3)
Use the "rule of thumb" chart below:
- 4 threads = Preloaded for a softest spring (<180 lbs)
- 3 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (181-237 lbs)
- 2 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (238-293 lbs)
- 1 threads = Preloaded for a stiffer spring (294-349 lbs)
- 0 threads = Preloaded for a stiffest spring (>350 lbs)
Which of the shocks actually adjusts the height of the bike? That's my biggest concern. I was under the impression that one of the shocks is for preload weight and the other is to adjust the height.
type 1 adjustment is just ride height the shorter you make the shock, the higher the ride height will be,,you can actually leave the lowering kit on and take it back up to stock ride height (adjustment at the rear heim joint)
type 2 adjustment is preload, how stiff the shock will actually ride, when it is at your ride height (adjustment at the rear of the shock body)
** make sure what you change on 1 shock, you do the exact same to the other one **
heres a few helpfull links
how to install and adjust the shocks http://www.burlybrand.com/instructio...ble/28-255.pdf
how to adjust preload http://fatbillscustoms.com/
Sorry Im alot better at doing than explaining [:@]




