Putting a Fatboy 16" front wheel on my 2000 FXST. Does anyone know off hand what spacers I'll need and or how it will affect the handling? Thanks!

 

Don't about the spacers but it should make it feel more stable and msot likely a bit heavier. I ahve a front fatboy wheel with a plenty good metzler tire for sale if youa re interested. It is off a 2002 fatboy so it should bolt right up. PM me if youa re interested. I'll make you a deal.

 

Thread: The Old Night Train Pictures Thread (Locked)
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11-03-2006, 09:26 PM
agapsdiver
Senior Rider
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 456


RE: Before and After -Night Train Pictures
Pics of my bike, before and after.. Finally getting where I wanted to go.
Several people have asked how I changed to a 16" wheel... see below pics for my conversion.


Template to convert a 2003 Night Train 21" front wheel to a 16" front wheel:
AGAPSDIVER
Harley Softail
Parts List:

16 " H-D Black ThunderStar Wheel, Part number 43771-00A

Custom Chrome 6" Long Stainless Steel Wheel Spacer Stock for 3/4 " axle. Part #501142 ($49.00)

Custom Chrome Steel Rear Wheel Pulley & Sprocket Spacer Part # 19722 ($12.99) (approx. .200 " dia.)

Custom Chrome Disc Rotor Spacer Part # 25635 ($6.99) (approx. .040 " dia.)

Home Depot Cap Screw Button Socket bolt 5/16 " x 1-1/2" Stainless Steel (5 pcs)

Home Depot 5/16 " lock washer (5 pcs)
Loctite Threadlocker blue
Loctite Anti-Seize Lubricant



Purchased a H-D Black ThunderStar Wheel, Part number 43771-00A. This is the wheel recommended for a 2003 Heritage Classic. It is designed for the 2003 with 3/4 " front axle.

(Note: New Part number 43771-07 is same wheel designed for the new 1 " front axle. Additional Installation Kit 43833-07 provides for 3/4 " front axle.The HD web site is displaying the newer 1" axle wheels. You may still be able to purchase the older wheels from your local HD parts dept.. but if not you will need to buy the newer wheel and buy the Additional Installation Kit also for the 3/4 in. axle on older bikes.)

NOTE: If possible do not mount the tire on the wheel before mocking up wheel for proper spacing and all preliminary work is complete. It is much easier and lighter to work with only the wheel. Mount tire only before final assembly.

My original NT 21 " front wheel and the new 16 " front wheel both have the exact same width through the axle hole, approx. 6 1/4 " .

I could not use the original wheel spacers since, although the axle diameters of the wheels are the same, the centerline for the " tire" on the 16 " wheel is offset by 1/4 " from the 21 " original. The single spacer that comes with the wheel also can not be used.
Original spacers were, from sitting on the seat, right side 7/8 " and left side (disc brake) 1 " . In order to find proper spacing I did a lot of measuring and cutting PVC plastic water pipe to use as mock up spacers. I determined the spacers needed to get the " tire" centered would be right side 5/8 " and left side (disc brake) of 1 1/4 " .

Orig. spacers 7/8" plus 1" equals a total spacer width of 1 7/8 inches.
New spacers of 5/8 " plus 1 1/4 " equals a total spacer width of 1 7/8 inches.
Note: offset by 1/4 "

The new spacers were made with Custom Chrome 6 " Long Stainless Steel Wheel Spacer Stock for 3/4 " axle Part #501142 . This 6 inch long tube of steel has approx. 1/8 " of width. There was no way I could accurately cut the spacers myself. Luckily, the store I purchased the stock from has a shop in the back and allowed me to purchase the stock and they cut it for " free" since I allowed them to keep the remaining 4 inches.

With wheel spacers in place, that nagging 1/4 " offset cropped up in that the front brake disc needed to be moved out by 1/4 " . Using Custom Chrome Steel Rear Wheel Pulley & Sprocket Spacer Part # 19722 and Custom Chrome Disc Rotor Spacer Part # 25635 you get a total spacing of .240 inches.. or nearly 1/4 " (.250). These 2 spacers have the proper 5 hole spacing for the brake disk, but the center hole of Part #19722 needs to be enlarged by between 1/32 and 1/16 in. in order to fit over the hub. After enlarging the hole by grinding Part #19722, place the larger Part #19722 on first, then Part # 25635, then the brake disc. At this point you need to install the 5 screws. The new wheel comes with 5 new Torx screws (1” long) with a white residue on the end that helps lock the screws in place. Remember, we moved the disc out 1/4 “, so here I used the Home Depot Cap Screw Button Socket bolts that are 1 1/2” long and a lock washer and Loctite blue. Note that the lock washer needs to fit inside the recess in the disc rotor.

That was it….. easier then I expected but still a little work finding the parts I needed.

I did all of the mockup with just the wheel (no tire) and the brake caliper in place on the forks for proper fitting. However, once the tire is put on the wheel you will have to unbolt the caliper, install the wheel, and then reinstall the caliper on the forks. Placing a piece of cardboard in the caliper whenever the disc is not installed will help prevent the disc pads from disengaging .

Note: you should use Loctite Anti-Seize Lubricant on the axle on final installation.
__________________

Hook’em
2003 Night Train (FXSTBI)
Live Free or kill the m@&^#! f&*$^i%g terrorists.
Last edited by agapsdiver; 08-06-2008 at 10:49 PM.

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gaps,

Thanks! How is the handling/ Did you lower the rear at all?

 

Handling is great... takes those rain groves much better..
Nope.. did not lower the rear since I pack heavy when I travel and
have passengers some times.

 

Thanks Agap and you just answered my next PM to you!!!