Stanless steel lines and cables or not?
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
SS Braided lines are better, ergo they have to feel better, so they do. At least they do to you.
But on more than one occasion I have seen where they have made a demonstrable and even measurable difference. Mostly because the old lines had too much 'flex' in them allowing the lines to swell instead of transferring the pressure to the pads where its needed.
In other cases I have seen where they have 'seemed' to operate no better or even worse than the originals. But in every case it has always turned out to be because the brakes were not bled thoroughly and still had a small pocket of air trapped in the system.
I found a trick I use to get all the air out of the system when your changing out the front brake line. Works every time and you don't spend a lot of time playing with the bleeder valve while you get someone to pull the lever all the time.
Before you pull off the lines dismount the caliper and put a thin piece of wood or two pieces of sheet metal between the pads. Pull the lever until the pads close down on the wood. Now pull off the old line making sure the inlet stays on top, so no brake fluid leaks out or air gets in, and replace the line.
Once the new line is attached loosen the master cylinder cover making sure its open to the air.
Now use a flat blade screwdriver or other thin piece of steel to pry apart the pads. Be careful here as you can damage the pad material. I like to use this trick when I have a new set of pads ready to go in. Because then I don't care if I damage them or not. Take your time and do it slowly. Your going to force a large quantity of fluid back up the line to the master cylinder forcing all the air out of the line and into the reservoir. Done too fast it can actually spry or spurt out the top on you if the cover is off.
If you have someone around you can have them watch the master cylinder reservoir and tell you when the bubbles stop. Once they have put the caliper back on, with some Lock-Tite and you should be able to grab the brake lever a couple of times to seat the pads back on the rotor.
Once you have it should be done. If its still feels a little spongy let it sit a few minutes for things to settle and try bleeding it. It shouldn't be necessary but if the line is really long, like for tall apes it might have to be done.
In any event the odds are that it will not take a lot to clear out what little air might still be trapped in the system.
PS if you don't have anyone to help just leave the cover loose or lay a rag over the master cylinder to keep it from spraying out in case you get a little too energetic pushing the pads back.
Once everything feels OK top off the reservoir (you will lose some fluid) then take her out for a test ride. I figure about 30 miles with a cold one at the end should be just about right.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 203
Likes: 1
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Most of the time any 'major' difference in how a set of SS brake lines might feel is more due to perception than fact.
SS Braided lines are better, ergo they have to feel better, so they do. At least they do to you.
But on more than one occasion I have seen where they have made a demonstrable and even measurable difference. Mostly because the old lines had too much 'flex' in them allowing the lines to swell instead of transferring the pressure to the pads where its needed.
In other cases I have seen where they have 'seemed' to operate no better or even worse than the originals. But in every case it has always turned out to be because the brakes were not bled thoroughly and still had a small pocket of air trapped in the system.
I found a trick I use to get all the air out of the system when your changing out the front brake line. Works every time and you don't spend a lot of time playing with the bleeder valve while you get someone to pull the lever all the time.
Before you pull off the lines dismount the caliper and put a thin piece of wood or two pieces of sheet metal between the pads. Pull the lever until the pads close down on the wood. Now pull off the old line making sure the inlet stays on top, so no brake fluid leaks out or air gets in, and replace the line.
Once the new line is attached loosen the master cylinder cover making sure its open to the air.
Now use a flat blade screwdriver or other thin piece of steel to pry apart the pads. Be careful here as you can damage the pad material. I like to use this trick when I have a new set of pads ready to go in. Because then I don't care if I damage them or not. Take your time and do it slowly. Your going to force a large quantity of fluid back up the line to the master cylinder forcing all the air out of the line and into the reservoir. Done too fast it can actually spry or spurt out the top on you if the cover is off.
If you have someone around you can have them watch the master cylinder reservoir and tell you when the bubbles stop. Once they have put the caliper back on, with some Lock-Tite and you should be able to grab the brake lever a couple of times to seat the pads back on the rotor.
Once you have it should be done. If its still feels a little spongy let it sit a few minutes for things to settle and try bleeding it. It shouldn't be necessary but if the line is really long, like for tall apes it might have to be done.
In any event the odds are that it will not take a lot to clear out what little air might still be trapped in the system.
PS if you don't have anyone to help just leave the cover loose or lay a rag over the master cylinder to keep it from spraying out in case you get a little too energetic pushing the pads back.
Once everything feels OK top off the reservoir (you will lose some fluid) then take her out for a test ride. I figure about 30 miles with a cold one at the end should be just about right.
SS Braided lines are better, ergo they have to feel better, so they do. At least they do to you.
But on more than one occasion I have seen where they have made a demonstrable and even measurable difference. Mostly because the old lines had too much 'flex' in them allowing the lines to swell instead of transferring the pressure to the pads where its needed.
In other cases I have seen where they have 'seemed' to operate no better or even worse than the originals. But in every case it has always turned out to be because the brakes were not bled thoroughly and still had a small pocket of air trapped in the system.
I found a trick I use to get all the air out of the system when your changing out the front brake line. Works every time and you don't spend a lot of time playing with the bleeder valve while you get someone to pull the lever all the time.
Before you pull off the lines dismount the caliper and put a thin piece of wood or two pieces of sheet metal between the pads. Pull the lever until the pads close down on the wood. Now pull off the old line making sure the inlet stays on top, so no brake fluid leaks out or air gets in, and replace the line.
Once the new line is attached loosen the master cylinder cover making sure its open to the air.
Now use a flat blade screwdriver or other thin piece of steel to pry apart the pads. Be careful here as you can damage the pad material. I like to use this trick when I have a new set of pads ready to go in. Because then I don't care if I damage them or not. Take your time and do it slowly. Your going to force a large quantity of fluid back up the line to the master cylinder forcing all the air out of the line and into the reservoir. Done too fast it can actually spry or spurt out the top on you if the cover is off.
If you have someone around you can have them watch the master cylinder reservoir and tell you when the bubbles stop. Once they have put the caliper back on, with some Lock-Tite and you should be able to grab the brake lever a couple of times to seat the pads back on the rotor.
Once you have it should be done. If its still feels a little spongy let it sit a few minutes for things to settle and try bleeding it. It shouldn't be necessary but if the line is really long, like for tall apes it might have to be done.
In any event the odds are that it will not take a lot to clear out what little air might still be trapped in the system.
PS if you don't have anyone to help just leave the cover loose or lay a rag over the master cylinder to keep it from spraying out in case you get a little too energetic pushing the pads back.
Once everything feels OK top off the reservoir (you will lose some fluid) then take her out for a test ride. I figure about 30 miles with a cold one at the end should be just about right.
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