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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 10:02 PM
  #11  
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Get some break pad lube for the back of the pads and the pins, you'll never have a problem with squeaking.
 

Last edited by sonar_chris; Dec 30, 2008 at 10:07 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 08:17 AM
  #12  
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http://fatbillscustoms.com/
has step by step without removing the caliper
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 09:23 AM
  #13  
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In the Fatbill directions he mentions that you need to torque the pins back down. Is that really necessary or just a good thing to do? Does anyone else torque their pins back down?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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What I do when I do them is pull the caliper off the bike and get the 9.00 rebuild kit. If you just push the pucks back in the bore your just pushing all that crud that's there you can't see without taking them apart.That crud will in time makes those pucks stick. Take real fine emory cloth and clean the pucks after cleaning them with solvent.It's your bike and you only have 2 wheels and brakes.You never know when you're gonna need to stop that thing.I like to get all I can out of things like brakes especially.I don't have bags on the Train so it usually only takes an hour and a half to do the job
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 04:50 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Beerninja
In the Fatbill directions he mentions that you need to torque the pins back down. Is that really necessary or just a good thing to do? Does anyone else torque their pins back down?

Its always a good idea to torque to spec. I personally don't (but should to do things the right way). One of the reason they use torque specs is to keep from damaging the bolt or the tapped hole that the bolt threads into.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 05:22 PM
  #16  
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i cleaned mine with brake cleaner and a towel and no more crude. mine stay clean because i use the car wash to wash the bike.

http://www.cyclespot.com/lyndall_rac...es_install.htm

http://www.360brake.com/index.htm
 

Last edited by tk353; Dec 31, 2008 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #17  
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No you don't have to take the wheel off but I did notice that my front was wearing very unevenly. I pulled the caliper and made sure I had plenty of fluid in the mastercylinder and pumped out the pistons so that I could clean them real good with brake cleaner and a rag. Then I put my Lyndalls in. This solved my problem.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 05:43 AM
  #18  
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+1 on cleaning the pucks before you push them back in. as far as torqueing the bolts, I don't but it is the feel thing, don't overtighten you will be sorry later. If unsure then yes torque them
 
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 07:10 AM
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i have a 2001 fatboy and 50,000miles on it. I have replaced the rear brakes 3 times and I have never removed the rear tire just to replace the brake shoes
 
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