Started the Tear Down - 95" - CAMS
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
From: Ruffin, North Carolina
I built mine to 95" about a month ago, used SE 10.25 to 1 pistons and 211 cams, some work done on the heads, and some other stuff too. It's one of those jobs that puts twice the smile on your face. First, holy crap it runs, and hope it runs great. Second, DAMN RIGHT, I built this here puppy!!!! Any way, good luck to ya.
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 12
From: Westchester, NY
Thanks guys !
The Cams are installed, I forgot to snap some pictures of the Cam Plate before I buttoned it up.
Hopefully my Heads will arrive sometime during this up coming week. I'll be sure to take pictures of the Piston/Cylinder install and as much else I can as I go along.
So far no Fawk Ups on my part. The Inner Cam Bearings and Cam Install went smooth.
It's not hard work but there are alot of pieces and parts as you take things apart. I made sure to bag and tag things as I went along even if I intended to use a new part in it's place. I kept all the bolts with the part in the bags. Mark everything Right/ Left or Front/Back if that's the case as well.
Taking pictures helps in case you forget how a wire was routed.
The best thing to do is before you start is to make sure you have all the new parts and the proper tools needed especially any speciality tools before you start otherwise you will be running around ordering this stuff. Don't be in a hurry and leave the alcohol out until your done and it starts up.
I pretty much used the Service manual and as much info I could find in this forum and a few others to get me motivated to do this.
Mike
The Cams are installed, I forgot to snap some pictures of the Cam Plate before I buttoned it up.
Hopefully my Heads will arrive sometime during this up coming week. I'll be sure to take pictures of the Piston/Cylinder install and as much else I can as I go along.
So far no Fawk Ups on my part. The Inner Cam Bearings and Cam Install went smooth.
It's not hard work but there are alot of pieces and parts as you take things apart. I made sure to bag and tag things as I went along even if I intended to use a new part in it's place. I kept all the bolts with the part in the bags. Mark everything Right/ Left or Front/Back if that's the case as well.
Taking pictures helps in case you forget how a wire was routed.
The best thing to do is before you start is to make sure you have all the new parts and the proper tools needed especially any speciality tools before you start otherwise you will be running around ordering this stuff. Don't be in a hurry and leave the alcohol out until your done and it starts up.
I pretty much used the Service manual and as much info I could find in this forum and a few others to get me motivated to do this.
Mike
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 12
From: Westchester, NY
It's Alive!!
Finished putting it all back together today. Man was I scared to hit that Start Button..
Well I went and did it and it stuttered a bit and coughed and then it fired up !!
Check for leaks and all was well...
Took it out for it's maiden ride and it ran smooth at this point. I didn't really take it passed 3rd gear for now but no suspect issues yet.
I could feel the power difference right away but then again I haven't ridden it since before the Winter.
What a relief...
Here's the build:
1550 HD Cylinders and Flat Top Pistons
BigBoyz Ported/Polished Heads (Compression Releases) 9:8.1
Andrews 37N Conversion Cams
HD Billet Cam Plate with Hydraulic Tensioners and New Style Oil Pump
Honestly, it's quite a bit of work and unless you are patient and semi-mechanically inclined it would be best left to the pros.
Hopefully I'll get some miles on it and then get it tuned.
Mike
NY
Well I went and did it and it stuttered a bit and coughed and then it fired up !!
Check for leaks and all was well...
Took it out for it's maiden ride and it ran smooth at this point. I didn't really take it passed 3rd gear for now but no suspect issues yet.
I could feel the power difference right away but then again I haven't ridden it since before the Winter.
What a relief...
Here's the build:
1550 HD Cylinders and Flat Top Pistons
BigBoyz Ported/Polished Heads (Compression Releases) 9:8.1
Andrews 37N Conversion Cams
HD Billet Cam Plate with Hydraulic Tensioners and New Style Oil Pump
Honestly, it's quite a bit of work and unless you are patient and semi-mechanically inclined it would be best left to the pros.
Hopefully I'll get some miles on it and then get it tuned.
Mike
NY
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 12
From: Westchester, NY
Yeah, I wanted to keep it simple and do pretty much that type of break in...
How soon did you change the oil? I used Dino to start but have alway used Mobile 1 Syn.
Mike
NY
How soon did you change the oil? I used Dino to start but have alway used Mobile 1 Syn.
Mike
NY
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
From: Irmo, SC
Change your oil and filter after about 50 miles. If you are really concerned about your oil, you can change it after about two minutes of run time and again at 25 miles, but I think it would be okay to change at 50 miles. As far as break in is concerend, you want to seat the rings as soon as possible. You need to vary your RPM's. Your rings should be seated by the time you have 25 to 50 miles on your new top end. Congrats on your build. Later, Calvin.
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