Duecth help
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,344
Likes: 6
From: my house
jr rider you are exactly right bout everything,im sure once the 1st 2 are done
it will be a breeze,but for now its a pain in the ****!gonna try a bobby pin tomorrow
thanks again everyone im done for the night here's a picture of this
darn thing only place to stick somethin in is where the wire goes in?
it will be a breeze,but for now its a pain in the ****!gonna try a bobby pin tomorrow
thanks again everyone im done for the night here's a picture of this
darn thing only place to stick somethin in is where the wire goes in?
Last edited by m i k e; Feb 23, 2009 at 11:04 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
From:
The Deutsch connectors are easy once you do one. I had to take apart the 2-pin multilock connector for my signal lights last weekend and that connector had me mad for about 20 minutes. I tried using an awl to release the tang never worked, I then found a thin pick to stick in there and it released the wires no problem.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: USAF in Germany
I used a paperclip. It's what Novello provides to do this. Believe it or not, the thickness of the paperclip actually makes a difference, so try several until you find one that works. Cheesecake is right, once you get the feel, its easy.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: canada on
here Mike i hope this helps. if you need a to see another plug let me know.the bible is worth it weight in gold. (service manual ) once you down load the pics you should be able to zoom in & read.
Last edited by bikermike2; Feb 24, 2009 at 08:16 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 385
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
I'm not sure if you guys have a surplus store in the U.S.A. called "Princess Auto", but we have them here in Canada, and I bought a set of 4 stainless steel dental pick tools for $7 and it worked perfectly for the pin removal. There was ZERO flex with the tools, and the narrow diameter of the tools made it a breeze. Try to get some similar tool(s). Like everyone else suggested though, paperclips and hairpins work too. I had my bike raised up off the floor, a nice comfortable chair to sit on, lots of light, and a nice warm shop to work in with no distractions. Have a nice comfortable work environment and take your time. I might have more pics if you need, but the service manual attachments mentioned earlier should help. Best of luck, JR
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 14,865
Likes: 4
From: Mn.on a lake,well nxt to a lake.
from the last pic mike ya need to pop the orange cap off on the other end of the rubber gromet where you ring finger is touching on the pic.,the orange cap has a tab on the side,once ya get that off you can see inside the plug where the male ends are,then look in the middle,you wil see a little tab by each male pin,this is the tab you need to move to the center,while holding the tab over lightly pull on the wire and the pin will pull out...........
They do make a small tool witch is basicaly a hollow tube that ya slide over the male pin and it unlocks the tab and in witch you can then pull the wire and it will slide out of the plug....
They do make a small tool witch is basicaly a hollow tube that ya slide over the male pin and it unlocks the tab and in witch you can then pull the wire and it will slide out of the plug....
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 782
Likes: 7
From: Texas
Mudpuddle put up some excellent pics and an excellent tutorial on those connectors in the under $50 thread in the Dyna section.
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,225
From: the 50s & the 60s
ORIGINAL: lonewatie
Mud - just a reminder for your wire crimper you made. Thanks - watie.
Mud - just a reminder for your wire crimper you made. Thanks - watie.
I made this up a couple weeks ago when I replaced bars,
and needed to crimp about a dozen of the little Deutsch bastards.
mud..........
Illustrated below is a six hole Deutsch.
There is one of these for each of the left and the right hand controls.
They are great fittings, positive connection,
and, just like fish pus sy, totally watertight.
Easy to open up, pry gently with a small flat bladed screwdriver
in one of the little slots in the edge of the locking wedge.
Once you have it opened up,
the red arrows indicate the springed locks.
The green arrow is pointing to one of the locks
that I have relaxed by pushing it sidewaze with the small flat bladed screwdriver.
Then simply pull the wire out through the backside.
The orange wedge shown above locates the fittings precisely for engagement,
and prevents the locks from disengaging.
Pictured below are the individual components -
Housing w/attached seal, wedge, and backend seal.
The wires penetrate the rearend seal
The red arrow shows one of my crimps with my modified flea market dykes.
Below is shown a rack of female Deutsch wire ends,
and my crimper.
Used a tiny needle file, and, a small square file on each jaw.
Dykes work real good for this purpose,
cause each jaw tapers from thick to sharp at the cutting edge.
So, when filed inward, the crimping surface widens out just right.
As shown below, file in one thirty second deep,
and one eighth wide, on each jaw.
Bingo... Real cheap tool.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,225
From: the 50s & the 60s
Molex connectors (below)
.
Very simple to remove the wires. (pix follow)
First off you have a hook tool........
.
.
.
Insert the hook tool into one of the D shaped holes
and the point will aim at the other Dhole.
.
.
.
Above, use the tool to pull up about a quarter inch.
(you are pulling up the secondary lock)
.
Now, below I show a little T wrench I made up,
(for the primary lock)
using.032 stainless steel wire.......
.
.
.
Now, below, this is where you wanna poke your tool.
Doesn't take much, you don't need to bend anything.
Just push your tool in gently,
and pull it out the back (the wire).
.
.
.