Oils?
I run the oil in the engine but use Bel Ray for the trans and no wine or clank and I can find neutral. I use Motor Factory® Primary Case Lube in the primary. because Amsoil has gone up so much I just switched to Mobil 1 for vtwin and it works as good. I have 36,000 miles in about 1.5 years and it runs great and no debris in the oil changes.
http://www.belray.com/consumer/product.fsp?pid=13637
http://www.customchrome.com/dcm/cc/view.asp?mfoil.html
http://www.belray.com/consumer/product.fsp?pid=13637
http://www.customchrome.com/dcm/cc/view.asp?mfoil.html
Yes it is, but not by any major standards. It just works better and has different additives in it. You don't need the additives to neutralize combustion created acids that are commonly used in engine oils. But do want the additives for shock loadings.
I use Mobil 1 20/50W for V-Twins in the engine and primary and Mobil 1 75/90W gear oil in the tranny. Mostly because its easy to find locally and is a good oil and it does get cold around here at times.
90/140W oil in the tranny may be a bit of overkill if you live in an area where the temps get down into the lower 50's and 'might' even make shifting a bit stiffer until it warms up a bit if it gets much colder than that. But the odds are that you can't go wrong with either weight so long as you stick to a good quality oil.
In the end sticking to good quality brand's in the proper weights and changing it when your supposed to, or even more often if your paranoid, or ****, about maintenance like I am and you shouldn't have any oil related problems.
One thing that gets rarely mentioned is that most bike's, not all, should have their oil changed more often than the standard 3 to 5000 mile interval stated in the manuals. That's because they don't get run like a water cooled car. Most cars operate at fairly stable temperatures and rarely exceed that, even in slow traffic, so they don't 'beat' the oil to death through overheating.
Bikes in general, and air cooled ones in particular often run at wildly fluctuating temperatures that can at times exceed the magic 250 degree level where the additives in it start to break down at a greatly increased rate. They also don't run as long at operating temperatures so they don't get the chance to 'cook off' the moisture that collects in them from condensation as thoroughly as a car or truck will.
If your bike is always on the road cruising along at 60 or 70 MPH for hours on end, fine. But if your running it around town going from bar to bar, or hangout to hangout consider changing it more often than the book says.
Just remember that good oil changed regularly is THE cheapest insurance you can get to having your bikes engine last a long time without problems.
I use Mobil 1 20/50W for V-Twins in the engine and primary and Mobil 1 75/90W gear oil in the tranny. Mostly because its easy to find locally and is a good oil and it does get cold around here at times.
90/140W oil in the tranny may be a bit of overkill if you live in an area where the temps get down into the lower 50's and 'might' even make shifting a bit stiffer until it warms up a bit if it gets much colder than that. But the odds are that you can't go wrong with either weight so long as you stick to a good quality oil.
In the end sticking to good quality brand's in the proper weights and changing it when your supposed to, or even more often if your paranoid, or ****, about maintenance like I am and you shouldn't have any oil related problems.
One thing that gets rarely mentioned is that most bike's, not all, should have their oil changed more often than the standard 3 to 5000 mile interval stated in the manuals. That's because they don't get run like a water cooled car. Most cars operate at fairly stable temperatures and rarely exceed that, even in slow traffic, so they don't 'beat' the oil to death through overheating.
Bikes in general, and air cooled ones in particular often run at wildly fluctuating temperatures that can at times exceed the magic 250 degree level where the additives in it start to break down at a greatly increased rate. They also don't run as long at operating temperatures so they don't get the chance to 'cook off' the moisture that collects in them from condensation as thoroughly as a car or truck will.
If your bike is always on the road cruising along at 60 or 70 MPH for hours on end, fine. But if your running it around town going from bar to bar, or hangout to hangout consider changing it more often than the book says.
Just remember that good oil changed regularly is THE cheapest insurance you can get to having your bikes engine last a long time without problems.
Was using 20/50 in all three, now trying the 75/140 gear lube in tranny to see if it makes a difference. Haven't really noticed much.
Gear lube better?? I may help quiet some noise down if you have it. The oil serves the purpose just fine with it's GL-1 rating. That is all that is required in a bike. All the extra extreme pressure additives in a GL-5 aren't needed, but don't hurt anything. If going gear lube, go with a 75/110 or 75/140. Same viscosity is our 75/110 and the 20/50 oil.
Gear lube better?? I may help quiet some noise down if you have it. The oil serves the purpose just fine with it's GL-1 rating. That is all that is required in a bike. All the extra extreme pressure additives in a GL-5 aren't needed, but don't hurt anything. If going gear lube, go with a 75/110 or 75/140. Same viscosity is our 75/110 and the 20/50 oil.
I use Amsoil 20w50 V-twin in engine & primary, 75w-110 severe gear in tranny. Runs smooth and quiet. I'm gonna switch to Redline 20w50 V-twin in engine, Redline V-twin primary case lube in primary, and Redline V-twin Tranny w/ shockproof in Trans. Not that there is anything wrong with Amsoil, its just that im very curious about the Redline products, I hear very good feedback from friends and members on this site about it. So I'll put another 5 thousand on it and see if there makes any difference.
Depends on what he was running cuz if it was within reason the stealers are going to have one hell of a time proving that said product was the cause of the failure. Now if he put way to high or low a viscosity or something stupid like brake fluid then they had better pony up on a transmission.
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