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I need advice from the experts here please. I just installed Rhinehart 2/2 exhuast and SE stage one on my 2000 FB last weekend and not sure it is right. My plan was to follow some instrucion I printed from this fourum but when I went to buy the jets from local shop, was turned in another direction.
The guys at shop drilled out my slow jet from stock 45 to around 50 and left the main alone. THen I drilled the bung for mixture screw and went out 3.5 turns. I did not change the needle or shim it.
So, the bike seems to run pretty good ( hard to tell lately after 20 min in this weather, legs go numb) I do notice the idle is fine when bike is standing up but wants to die when leaned over on stand.
My question is do you guys think this set up is too rich??
3.5 turns sounds like a lot. Screw the mixture screw all the way in and then out 2 full turns. Start the bike and turn the mixture screw out until the bike dies. Start it again and turn it in until it idles well. Maybe you already did that, but I would think if the jetting is right that it would be no more than 2.5-3 turns out on the mixture screw. I can't remember the site that explains this in depth but am sure someone else will chime in.
Not crazy about drilling jets...but that is done. A shop should have a selection of jet sizes. I wonder why the high speed jet was let stock? But, that is not why I responded...when you lean it over things change and to me that screams float adjustment. Below is a method...correct one too I believe...but if that is too much trouble then I would suggest adjusting fuel level a bit by however you want...eyeball, zen whatever. I would GUESS level is high and flooding intake when leaned. It could be low, starving engine when leaned over but in that case I think you could run the bowl empty when ridden hard. I would be interested about other replies about leaving main jet stock size. The idle screw adjustment that always worked for me...AFTER float is adjusted... is to screw in until it slows/stumbles, screw out counting turns until it slows/stumbles, split difference and it otta be close. John
Pasted from another site:
When adjusting the carb float, the body of the carb should be held at an angle (15 - 20 degrees) making a wedge of wood at 18 degrees (the center of the angle) and setting the carb throat (the side that goes into the maifold) on the wedge of wood and then measuring the float setting (the distance from the "bottom" of the float to the edge of the float bowl mounting flange/base) which should be between 0.413 - 0.453 inches (10.49 - 11.51mm) [7/16" = 0.4375].
I made the wood block to fit the angle the carb should be tilted to (not pictured - mine turned out to be a tad over 18 degrees - within specs) and then I took an old HOG Card (think old credit card) and cut a 7/16" tab out of it to use as a gage.
Keep in mind that: a LOW float level will lean out all the carb circuits, and a HIGH float level will richen all the circuits. So set your float level before setting up the carb.
Man, thanks for the input and makes sense but may be too complicated for me ( not good with those degrees). I think I will take the carb back off and start over with one size bigger jets from stock and readjust the screw to what yall recommend.
Hey oldyeller, buy a # 48 low speed jet and install that. I think 50 is too big. 190-195 will be good on the main. I like to put 2 thin washers. about .020 thousands thick under the needle. Then turn your idle mixture screw out 2 turns. Ride in warmer weather to dial it all in, as the jetting will be lean in cooler weather. I hope that helps.
I've got 2-2 X-pipes and a Forcewinder. Jetting: 50 slow, 190 main, and 2.5 turns out. Runs perfect. I don't notice much difference with a 195 main so I stay at 190.
Hey oldyeller, buy a # 48 low speed jet and install that. I think 50 is too big. 190-195 will be good on the main. I like to put 2 thin washers. about .020 thousands thick under the needle. Then turn your idle mixture screw out 2 turns. Ride in warmer weather to dial it all in, as the jetting will be lean in cooler weather. I hope that helps.
EXACTLY.
48
195
(2) #4 washers under the needle
2 turns
..and you don't have to remove the carb do do this.
plus, when you go from pipe set to pipe set, just check your plugs... i've went through 3 sets of pipes and only had to adjust the idle for sound/tone rumble.
I had a dealer rejet my carb before (my old wide glide)... never again. Not only do you have to keep taking it back over and over again it cost you a truck load of money.
I have about $18.00 in my rejet lol
my emissions paper I was 50% across the board on values. (perfect)
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