Raked front end?
http://www.realhog.com/detail.cfm?Ca...dson_Sportster
black with integrated turn signals then run 5 inch longer forks.
Any thoughts or suggestions should i proceed with this project? Ive heard a few things about trail etc and im not sure how to compensate. Thanks in advance.
Perhaps this as an alternative in black as well:
http://www.realhog.com/detail.cfm?Ca...vidson_Softail
http://www.realhog.com/detail.cfm?Ca...dson_Sportster
black with integrated turn signals then run 5 inch longer forks.
Any thoughts or suggestions should i proceed with this project? Ive heard a few things about trail etc and im not sure how to compensate. Thanks in advance.
Perhaps this as an alternative in black as well:
http://www.realhog.com/detail.cfm?Ca...vidson_Softail
the ones in your link are nice, but for the same money you could have a set of chrome plated billet aluminum HHI tree's...imo there just about the best out there for quality and fit, and the finish will out last your bike
check out www.scootersperformance.com for em, he's a super nice, "knowledegable" kind of guy
check out www.scootersperformance.com for em, he's a super nice, "knowledegable" kind of guy
Seems to me it would really wack the geometry all out of kilter.
Raking a frame increases trail, which slows the handling. Raked trees are used to return the trail to a more "normal" figure after raking the frame, which sort-of restores the handling.
Adding raked trees to an unraked frame will decrease trail. Decreased trail will cause the bike to handle more quickly, often to the point of becoming unstable at higher speeds. But what those higher speeds are varies.
You might get away with running raked trees if the rake increase was a small amount, but then again, you might not. If you don't know this stuff already, or if you do not know how much the trees will decrease your trail, I'd recommend you contact someone who can calculate the new frame/front end geometry. And I mean "calculate", not say something like, "Ive done this before and it works OK."
I've been through a high speed tank slapper. The Good Lord was watching as I didn't go down. The front end slapped side-to-side hard enough to loosen the handle bar riser bolts. Mine wasn't frame/front end design geometry, but worn neck and wheel bearings on a used bike I bought. It was a rather exciting few seconds that lasted for at least an hour, all while on the road atop the Lake o' the Pines dam.
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Raking a frame increases trail, which slows the handling. Raked trees are used to return the trail to a more "normal" figure after raking the frame, which sort-of restores the handling.
Adding raked trees to an unraked frame will decrease trail. Decreased trail will cause the bike to handle more quickly, often to the point of becoming unstable at higher speeds. But what those higher speeds are varies.
You might get away with running raked trees if the rake increase was a small amount, but then again, you might not. If you don't know this stuff already, or if you do not know how much the trees will decrease your trail, I'd recommend you contact someone who can calculate the new frame/front end geometry. And I mean "calculate", not say something like, "Ive done this before and it works OK."
I've been through a high speed tank slapper. The Good Lord was watching as I didn't go down. The front end slapped side-to-side hard enough to loosen the handle bar riser bolts. Mine wasn't frame/front end design geometry, but worn neck and wheel bearings on a used bike I bought. It was a rather exciting few seconds that lasted for at least an hour, all while on the road atop the Lake o' the Pines dam.
The trail numbers get shorter when you rake the trees. They also get shorter when you extend the front end. I wouldnt think you would need to raise it more than 2" but your trail number gets quite low by doing that. On the stocker you will be about 4.7" trail with just raked trees you go to 2.7" adding 2" tubes gets it down to 2.5"
It will be borderline at that amount of trail. The shorter the trail the quicker it will steer. Meaning it will not be as stable at speed. HHI offers a 3 degree tree in black they are $449 for the trees. You will need a fork stop kit. I suggest the hidden kit they are about $75
As far as tubes if you want to get extended length tubes I can get you pricing but I would suggest the stock tubes and lowering the rear to make the bike level. It will improve your trail and in my opinion looks better.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
You need to understand that the front end doesn't push the front wheel it "pulls" it. Think of the wheels on a shopping cart. As long as the wheels are behind their pivot the cart is fine. If the wheel is turned 180 degrees and is ahead of the pivot it will flop and act goofy. We've all seen that. It will try to twist back to behind the pivot on it's own. Your stem through the neck of your bike is the same as that vertical pivot on that shopping cart. Simply extening your forks increases trail, it does not decrese it.
Raked trees are best on bikes with a radical frame rake (40 degrees or more). Those bikes have too much trail and the reduction cause by the raked trees actually reduces it and improves handling. Try it on paper with a protractor and you'll see how it works.
Last edited by Northside; Dec 23, 2009 at 09:14 PM.







