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Also, if you're upgrading exhaust and new "sliced" port gaskets aren't included, use the Screamin' Eagle ones, not stock. 17048-98 I think. A pair is around $14. They don't squish into the exhaust port. I still don't get why they use the tapered ones.
Me either, when I asked the parts guy for a pair when I was installing my BR pipes.
He asked me if I was reinstalling the stock pipes or putting on aftermarket ones and explained that if I was not using stock pipes I should use the square SE version and not the normal tapered ones.
Seems that the tapered ones work best on the stock pipes but not always on aftermarket versions. I think its because the head ends on aftermarket pipes are not always shaped the same as the stock pipes. So the square ones seal better with other brands.
Ok guys,
Now the clymer book says install new gaskets into port, the new gaskets are really tight, it is very hard to get them in and I am afraid to push hard and reshape them.
Any help ? advice ? how to set the new gaskets securely into the port ? or shall I set them on the top of the pipe and use the pipe flange to close them ?
Also when tightining the pipes flange , do I use thread lock (blue) ? or no ?
I just pushed them into the port a little and used a socket that fit w/a short extension and a small ball peen hammer to tap them into position.
They went in very easy that way and I didn't bother using any kind of tread locker.
The flange gets so hot it will cook any chemical tread locker you try to use.
But I would recommend that you tighten the nuts down on a split washer and recheck them because they often 'loosen' up as they compress from heat and vibration. Keep checking them until the nuts don't move a couple of times in a row.
After that they should stay tight until you want to take them off again.
Then they will fight you just like any other screw/nut combination that gets exposed to those kinds of temperatures and weather conditions.
Push and position the gasket in the port as best as you can. Yes the fitment sucks, it's not you. Then place the pipe to the port and tighten the flange. The gasket will push/crush into place. No lock-tight needed. Tighten/Torque, ride a few miles then re-Torque. Check every once in awhile.
Originally Posted by klf33
Any help ? advice ? how to set the new gaskets securely into the port ? or shall I set them on the top of the pipe and use the pipe flange to close them ?
Also when tightining the pipes flange , do I use thread lock (blue) ? or no ?
Ditto on the answer above. A small screwdriver will work fine. I picked up a set of dental picks at a gun show and they work very well for the gaskets.
I think I got it right, a little bit of WD40 and the gasket went in (with a little tapping).
Now I put the rear (oh boy it is tight).. there is still a 'hair' I see between the flange and the head .. I am not sure if this normal, but the bolts are tightened to the max (using torque wrench)..
The front one needs a new circlips time to hit the dealer.
Please keep your help for me guys I highly appreciate that.
The gaskets are properly fine, but I would make to torge the bolts to the propery spec. Do not overtighten the bolts. This just crushes the gasket, therefore not sealing as good.
I was looking at them side by side yesterday (new pipes are on the floor). After talking with the two guys at the part counter, I came away with stock. The design has changed twice in how long? I decided it was easier to follow the manual torques than find out the correct ones for SE.
I can go back and exchange if someone advises otherwise...
Ditto...Can't tell you how handy these pick sets come in.
Originally Posted by BigJoeNY
All above, thumbs up... I recommend getting yourself a pick set. No mechanic or DIYer should be without them. Many, many uses.... The second one from the left is the one I use for exhaust gaskets. Pops em right out....
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