Removing Exhaust Gaskets
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Joined: Jul 2009
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SE or stock exhaust gaskets
Found out that it depends on the pipes. If you are installing head pipes that are rounded on the end (most aftermarket manufacturers) use stock. If they are squared on the end (like it was cut with a saw) you should use the SE ones.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 97
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From: Canada
Me either, when I asked the parts guy for a pair when I was installing my BR pipes.
He asked me if I was reinstalling the stock pipes or putting on aftermarket ones and explained that if I was not using stock pipes I should use the square SE version and not the normal tapered ones.
Seems that the tapered ones work best on the stock pipes but not always on aftermarket versions. I think its because the head ends on aftermarket pipes are not always shaped the same as the stock pipes. So the square ones seal better with other brands.
Now I'm confused, 2 different opinions on which gaskets are better for aftermarket pipes, I've got V&H short shots n I'm gonna wrap em so which gasket set should I use 65324-83A or 17048-98 ?
TIA
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,501
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From: Sheboygan,Wi
Just for reference when I put on my Rush crossovers I first tried the SE gaskets and could not get them to seal so I went with the standard tapered gaskets and have had no problems at all with them. On a side note I have always use a little bit of anti seize grease on my gaskets and they slide right in.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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65324-83 or 17048-98
Looking at my receipt and bag they came in, stock gaskets are 65324-83B. I finished the installation yesterday, ceramic coated Rush duals #62-5922. Having seen them next to the stock pipes, they were formed the same way; with an expanded "bubble donut" on the end. if the pipes were held on a flat surface and a flashlight inside, I could see light escaping where the end was not perfectly flush on the bench. I imagine no light would be seen if same were done with pipes intended for use with SE gaskets.
The difference is the seal on the stock gaskets is on an angle and will always work even if the manufacturing tolerance and mounting angle differs a tiny bit. The flat SE washers seal on the end of the pipe and require an unforgiving mount angle with respect to the port gasket seat.
If the outside edge of the end of your pipe is a sharp 90 degree angle and looks like a flat ring on the end, use SE. If your new pipe looks like stock, use stock gaskets.
Incidentally, 4.18 of my 08 manual has torque settings and the order is different for front and rear. Do these first. You will need to check and re-torque these after 100 miles, use ANTI-SEIZE on the port studs (and O2 sensors) DO NOT USE LOCK-TITE!
Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top
nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18
in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120
in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to
100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head
exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the
top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten
the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
Work toward the rear, carriage bolt clamp to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm).
Lower saddlebag support rail bolts 96-144 in-lbs (10.8-16.3
Nm).
Tighten the TORCA (muffler) clamps to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-
81 Nm)
I am riding today, good luck.
The difference is the seal on the stock gaskets is on an angle and will always work even if the manufacturing tolerance and mounting angle differs a tiny bit. The flat SE washers seal on the end of the pipe and require an unforgiving mount angle with respect to the port gasket seat.
If the outside edge of the end of your pipe is a sharp 90 degree angle and looks like a flat ring on the end, use SE. If your new pipe looks like stock, use stock gaskets.
Incidentally, 4.18 of my 08 manual has torque settings and the order is different for front and rear. Do these first. You will need to check and re-torque these after 100 miles, use ANTI-SEIZE on the port studs (and O2 sensors) DO NOT USE LOCK-TITE!
Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top
nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18
in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120
in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to
100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head
exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the
top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten
the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
Work toward the rear, carriage bolt clamp to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm).
Lower saddlebag support rail bolts 96-144 in-lbs (10.8-16.3
Nm).
Tighten the TORCA (muffler) clamps to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-
81 Nm)
I am riding today, good luck.
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,796
Likes: 36
From: Toronto, Ontario
Interesting to see this old Thread coming back to life, removing, wrapping and reinstalling my pipes was one of the fun projects of the winter of 2009..
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