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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 02:36 PM
  #3341  
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Originally Posted by Matt990724
anyone have the parts number of the shop manual handy?

I have some Dealership points to spend
Nevermind... I used the search function
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 04:08 PM
  #3342  
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You can always take the long strut covers (the glossy black ones) off and leave the smaller steel one underneath that's about half as long. I think that's what Ricky (rquirch) did and it looks awesome. You'd have to find something to do with the turn signals though and wouldn't be able to put a back rest on there.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 04:41 PM
  #3343  
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I don't think the stock seat would work with that fender, unless you drilled some new holes. Truth be told, if you see a fender you like and want to use, call the company and ask them questions.. if they don't know jack, then maybe it's a sign that it's not the right fender

and Aaron..i did the rustoleum treatment.. it looks real good but hot damn that stuff runs faster than my neighbor when he hears a siren. I'll leave that to your imagination. But it's a good treatment to see how everything looks black, so even if i want to in the winter I can just strip it all off and still send it to the powdercoater..

As far as the brake lever, it's really easy to take off, 1 bolt, and 1 pin with a codder (sp?) pin.. getting that codder pin back in was the biggest pain. Oh, except for taking the damn brake pedal pad off.. that was a kick to the gonads.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:03 PM
  #3344  
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Did you end up using the semi flat or the bed liner paint?
Originally Posted by Sgt_Jim
I don't think the stock seat would work with that fender, unless you drilled some new holes. Truth be told, if you see a fender you like and want to use, call the company and ask them questions.. if they don't know jack, then maybe it's a sign that it's not the right fender

and Aaron..i did the rustoleum treatment.. it looks real good but hot damn that stuff runs faster than my neighbor when he hears a siren. I'll leave that to your imagination. But it's a good treatment to see how everything looks black, so even if i want to in the winter I can just strip it all off and still send it to the powdercoater..

As far as the brake lever, it's really easy to take off, 1 bolt, and 1 pin with a codder (sp?) pin.. getting that codder pin back in was the biggest pain. Oh, except for taking the damn brake pedal pad off.. that was a kick to the gonads.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #3345  
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the bed liner. it looks good, hopefully it'll look better when it fully dries and hardens. Worst comes to worst, i can always scrape it all off and try again.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:56 PM
  #3346  
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Originally Posted by Sgt_Jim
I don't think the stock seat would work with that fender, unless you drilled some new holes. Truth be told, if you see a fender you like and want to use, call the company and ask them questions.. if they don't know jack, then maybe it's a sign that it's not the right fender

and Aaron..i did the rustoleum treatment.. it looks real good but hot damn that stuff runs faster than my neighbor when he hears a siren. I'll leave that to your imagination. But it's a good treatment to see how everything looks black, so even if i want to in the winter I can just strip it all off and still send it to the powdercoater..

As far as the brake lever, it's really easy to take off, 1 bolt, and 1 pin with a codder (sp?) pin.. getting that codder pin back in was the biggest pain. Oh, except for taking the damn brake pedal pad off.. that was a kick to the gonads.
Next time you need to take off the brake pedal pad use a hypo needle with some soapy water and inject it between the slits and brake pedal. Gets it nice and slippery and make removal easy. I use the same soapy water to wet down the pad for re install.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 05:26 AM
  #3347  
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Originally Posted by Sgt_Jim
the bed liner. it looks good, hopefully it'll look better when it fully dries and hardens. Worst comes to worst, i can always scrape it all off and try again.
Mine turned out great looked nasty until it cured but very happy with end result I did my heal shifter last night going to wait a few days then bake it and see if it holds with heat if it does I'm going to do my primary cover and engine and trans but want to make sure it can handle the heat
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #3348  
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All my stuff handles the heat just fine so I think it will be ok. The stuff does go on REALLY thick at first so you have to use short bursts of it. I usually do 3 coats.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 08:47 AM
  #3349  
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Originally Posted by DrWalkinboner
All my stuff handles the heat just fine so I think it will be ok. The stuff does go on REALLY thick at first so you have to use short bursts of it. I usually do 3 coats.
Yeah, curing time it says on the label takes 72 hours. I'm fine with that, don't really have any long rides planned soon anyways, so i'll keep an eye on it, and on saturday if i need to i'll take everything apart again and recoat it all if needed. I managed to put everything back together without chipping what i had done, except for the brake pedal lever where it mounts into the plunger for the master cylinder.. but it's somewhere where you can't see it anyways, so everything else still looks decent
 
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #3350  
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I'm putting nitrogen in my Troyes looking for a goog presure for them I ride 2 up more then not looking for good tire life and feel
 
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