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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:46 PM
  #6861  
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Originally Posted by beasleyiv
Guys, in the '12 P&A book they now have shorter shields with black braces. 16" 58376-09.
Went to order my windshield today and got frustrated. The parts page above is for Quick-release and my dealer tells me the FB will not take a Quickrelease. Just the detachable. And the only detachable that fits is the King-sized. The shortest in the black metal is 18". So I guess I might have to get it cut down myself after all.
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #6862  
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Memphis shades makes several detachable models that will fit the FB Lo
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 03:41 PM
  #6863  
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Originally Posted by td234
Went to order my windshield today and got frustrated. The parts page above is for Quick-release and my dealer tells me the FB will not take a Quickrelease. Just the detachable. And the only detachable that fits is the King-sized. The shortest in the black metal is 18". So I guess I might have to get it cut down myself after all.
Or you can just get a short one without the black braces and have them powder coated or painted. There's a lot more choice if you don't buy the black. I'm running a stock heritage shield 15" and didn't bother blacking out the braces. The bike needs 'some' contrast. If you don't buy black you can also usually score a good deal on ebay.
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #6864  
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Originally Posted by Sgt_Jim
It's either chapter 3 or chapter 6 of the service manual (i think 3) that gives you pretty detailed instructions on how to disassemble the entire motor in your living room.. when the time comes, i'm thinking about doing the 107" kit myself, my only problem is replacing the cam bearings on the lower end, otherwise i think the rest is pretty straight forward
I bought that special tool for removing and installing the inner bearings. Expensive at $80, but it was the best 10 minutes of the cam change. I can't imagine trying to rube goldberg some contraption up to get those out and in. There's too much that can go wrong and really ruin your day.
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 07:32 PM
  #6865  
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Originally Posted by beasleyiv
I bought that special tool for removing and installing the inner bearings. Expensive at $80, but it was the best 10 minutes of the cam change. I can't imagine trying to rube goldberg some contraption up to get those out and in. There's too much that can go wrong and really ruin your day.
What tool did you use? How tight are the bearings in the bore? I have a pilot bearing puller that is made for big trucks or I have a couple of blind hole bearing pullers but they are made for use with a 10lb slide hammer. I can also use them with all thread and a large bar puller for a bridge. My biggest question right now is how hard do they come out. Do the bearings sit flush with the case or are they pressed into the bore? I know I will figure this out when I get in there but some things I just can't tell from the pics in the service manual, and I don't have enough of my parts gathered up to justify tearing into it yet. (back ordered my install kit and gear locking tool) Don't want to miss any ride time, lol, its been in the 80's all week.

I feel ya on the rain man, I got caught in a BIG storm a few weeks back. Spent an hour drying the bike when I made it home. Still finding places where that water went
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 07:38 PM
  #6866  
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Originally Posted by WillyT
Just got my custom leather set made for me by Artist Pat Nash from Sundog Leather. Totally blown away by the crafmanship, and attention to detail. Can't recommend him enough for any leather creation you can dream up. He even built in a Iphone holder in my tool roll to my surprise!
It was a bit "spendy" but worth every penny, truly unique
Now thats what I call art!!! Thats beautiful....like totaly bada$$ fn beautiful man
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:23 PM
  #6867  
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Originally Posted by AirSchatz
Jim, sorry if you have already mentioned this, I might have missed it, but whats the details in your tbars? How much of a rise and pull back are they?
Those are the standard HD Street-Slammers.. I can't find the PDF document that's floating around the interwebs that gives specifications on how much pullback, but I know they're 7" integrated risers on them


edit PDF..they're PN 55985-10 and about the 26th one down:

http://www.harley-davidson.com/pna/p...bmLocale=en_US


30.25" wide, 5.75" pullback, 6.75" risers
 

Last edited by Sgt_Jim; May 4, 2012 at 09:25 PM.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #6868  
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Originally Posted by Fat11Lo
What tool did you use? How tight are the bearings in the bore? I have a pilot bearing puller that is made for big trucks or I have a couple of blind hole bearing pullers but they are made for use with a 10lb slide hammer. I can also use them with all thread and a large bar puller for a bridge. My biggest question right now is how hard do they come out. Do the bearings sit flush with the case or are they pressed into the bore? I know I will figure this out when I get in there but some things I just can't tell from the pics in the service manual, and I don't have enough of my parts gathered up to justify tearing into it yet. (back ordered my install kit and gear locking tool) Don't want to miss any ride time, lol, its been in the 80's all week.

I feel ya on the rain man, I got caught in a BIG storm a few weeks back. Spent an hour drying the bike when I made it home. Still finding places where that water went
Here's some shots of the cam job:








The Tool. Gary Beatty makes them. Was $93 including priority shipping. You have to email him beattygw@sbcglobal.net





 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 06:17 AM
  #6869  
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[quote=beasleyiv;9759049]

The Tool. Gary Beatty makes them. Was $93 including priority shipping. You have to email him beattygw@sbcglobal.net

Thanks Bill, I ordered one this morning off e-bay, it's made by Heartland Products and looks just like the one Harley shows in the service manual. It was 112 with shipping, will see how it works out
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 08:15 AM
  #6870  
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So just an update: the bike is STILL up on blocks! I had to go to a training thing in San Antonio for a little while and just got back. I have everything done but finishing up the forks and doing the fluid changes. So last night I went to put the lower forks together and ran into a problem... 1st off, I forgot to run by Lowe's and get a piece of PVC to seat the fork seal with and then... this is the one that hurt me, I went to put the bolt in the bottom of the lower fork and when I went to tighten it down, the piece it screws into inside the fork started spinning! Now it is stuck and will not tighten or loosen, just spin. Seriously pissed off right now. I think an impact drill will ghelp, but unfortunately I do not have one. I gotta run by the stealership this afternoon to pick up that bushing and I am seriously considering just having them put the forks togeher and then me take it home... It has just been the biggest pain in the *** for me, and I do not know why! But we will see. I have a friend with an impact drill so I might just swing by there and do it... either way, I am pissed; I about threw the damn fork through the wall.
 
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