When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Put new pads on the back of my bike. There is a lot of travel in the pedal now. They work great but I want less travel. There appears to be an adjustment on the arm that attaches to the master cylinder so should I just adjust them or try bleeding them? I got a good deal on a rear brake light switch from a nearby mom and pop custom shop but after I bought the switch, the jackass behind the counter wouldn't give me any pointers on the best way to bleed them. He just said, we'd be happy to do it for ya. What a tool! My buddy has a 1980 electra and he told me he usually just let's them gravity bleed on the front. Not sure if you can do that on the back or not but I wouldn't think so because the lines are level, unlike the front. I did crack the bleeder and got nothing but fluid, no air, so I'm thinkin the adjustment might work. I haven't cracked open the service manual yet. I was just sitting here and this came to mind so I figured I'd see if there were any thoughts on the idea.
Last edited by bfgoodmudder; Apr 11, 2010 at 01:42 AM.
When I bleed brakes, I use a hand held vacuum pump til' all the bubbles come out. Then pump your brakes,hold down,tighten valve...repeat til lines are free of air.
You need to bleed!
Buy a shop manual or pay someone if you are not familiar with brakes.
Brakes are the most important thing on your bike!
The process is this
Make sure master cylinder has enough fluid replace the cap.
Pump the peddle and hold down against the pressure.
crack open the bleader while continuing to push on the peddle.
Repeat this process until no bubbles are sean in the fluid.
Top off the master cylinder.
Be carefull not to get brake fluid on paint or anodized surfaces.
I use a poly tube attached to the bleader into a coffee can.
Thanks for the info fellas. I adjusted the pushrod for less travel. Maybe I need to bleed but I'm not noticing sponginess or having to pump them, yet anyway. Getting ready to go ride so we'll see what happens.
Gonna have to bleed'em I think. The adjustment idea isn't working and riding it a little more, I am noticing a little softness. Anybody ever have problems with the brakes actually locking up on them or wierd stuff like that. It hasn't happened to me yet but I would seriously hate to have that experience.
I would back off the pushrod adjustment and bleed the brakes. If you get that too tight by adj the pushrod you will find out what a stuck brake feels like if you went too much
I would back off the pushrod adjustment and bleed the brakes. If you get that too tight by adj the pushrod you will find out what a stuck brake feels like if you went too much
I hear ya. It didn't seem to like it too much when I lengthened the pushrod. I did back it off today to it's original position. Then I bled the brakes. I got'em to tighten up some but it's still not right. Gotta pump'em 2-3 times before they do what they're supposed to do. What a pain. I'm ridin 200+miles tomorrow to take a drug test for a new job so it looks like a few late hours in the garage tonight. When I stopped bleeding the brakes earlier it looked like there was no more air coming out so I don't know if it's getting trapped or what. I'm using DOT5 but the new stuff is purple and what's in the bike now is brown. When I did the front I just ran the purple all the way through but haven't gotten that far on the back yet. Also, should you pump the pedal real hard before you hold it and release the bleeder? Then should you push the pedal all the way down before you re-tighten it, or just part of the way, or does it matter?
Push it all the way down with the bleeder open then when all the way down close the bleeder. You changed just the pads? Did you open the bleeder to push the pistons back in? When you do that air can get in if you don't do it right
Push it all the way down with the bleeder open then when all the way down close the bleeder. You changed just the pads? Did you open the bleeder to push the pistons back in? When you do that air can get in if you don't do it right
I didn't open the bleeder when I pushed the pistons back in. My HD service manual says nothing about that. Good to know next time around. Thanks. We'll see how long this set lasts.
Just got done re-bleeding. I think it worked out. Stays nice and stiff now. We'll see what happens. Ridin two up tomorrow too so the wife better hope I'm good with a wrench....hahaha!!!
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Slideshow: Killer Custom's latest build relies on styling changes rather than performance upgrades, giving the cruiser an entirely different personality.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.