I am having a problem with my front brakes. I rebuilt the master cylinder and both calipers. I have used a Mighty Vac to pump up the brakes and nothing has worked. I was wondering if possibly the brake lines could be stopped up. The calipers had a yellowish-brown dried up brake fluid in them. This is on a 2005 Ultra classic. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

A little more info on what the problem actually is.
Ex. no brakes, no lever pressure, lever fade.

 

Probably just air still in the system. Here is an easy, one man way of bleeding those front brakes. I know it works as I have done it on my bike when I rebuilt the front master cylinder and on hundreds of car and truck brake systems I repaired years ago.

Put the fork at full lock to the left and leave it there. Fill up the master cylinder, pump the lever a dozen or so times and leave the cap off. Loosen the bleeder on the right caliper and attach a hose to it to run into a container, so you don't have brake fluid dripping on your wheel. Let the fluid run on its own, don't pump the lever, making sure you keep topping off the master cylinder as you dont want the level going below the hole in the bottom. When the fluid starts running steady out of the hose for 4 or 5 seconds (no air coming out anymore), go ahead and close the bleeder.

Go to the other side, loosen the bleeder on the left caliper and attach the hose and container to it and repeat as above until the fluid runs steady. Don't forget to keep the cylinder topped off. After this bleeder is closed then check the level in the cylinder and slowly pump the lever. It should become hard in a pump or two. If not, do the bleed over again. After making sure the cylinder is properly filled, put the cap back on. Sometimes you may have to pump the lever rapidly many times to get it to pump up if air becomes trapped in the master cylinder, but letting it gravity bleed should take that air out.

Unless you have a leak somewhere or an open line, this will bleed the brakes and will also show whether the lines are clear for fluid flow.

 

No lever pressure, Thanks for the help guys

 

How were the brakes working before you did all of this work? All new parts would SEEM to renew the entire brake system unless there was a problem not related to new cups and seals. Specifically the equalization port in the master cylinder. That is the little hole on the bottom of the reservoir and if it is plugged, none of that new fluid will get into the piston bore or go down the lines to the calipers. Does the fluid level in the reservoir go down as you work the lever? Do any air bubbles ever pop out of the little hole?

New automotive master cylinder directions require "priming" the unit by putting fluid into it and working the piston in and out without any lines connected to the ports except for return lines into the reservoir. When no more air goes through the return lines, the unit is primed and ready to install. If all else checks good, you may have to loosen or remove the brake line at the banjo connector and prime the master cylinder, then connect the brake line and bleed the system.

What does the shop manual say about installing a new master cylinder and bleeding the system? Mine is put away for the moment.

 

I will check the shop manual tomorrow. The brakes originally had little to no resistance when I purchased the bike. I really don't know about priming them. I rebuilt the master cylinder and didn't realize I had to prime it with the banjo bolt off. I do see bubbles coming up in the master cylinder and when I put the vacuum on it fluid does come out of the brake caliper. I am confused because this should be pretty easy fix.

 

If there's fluid flow with the bleeder open but no back pressure with the bleeder closed (and the line is air free) the plungers allowing backflow.

 

Wow, do you mean you have a problem with a 2005. Everyone should stay away from them! LOL! I love my 2014 Flhtk!