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I have a 2003 Heritage Springer with a 2-year old after-market Odyssey Battery. The bike is garage kept and the battery is not holding a charge longer than 1 week when all cables are connected.
I normally keep it on a tendor when not riding but if I forget to use the tender it doesn't crank over after a week.
The battery is 13.19 volts when not on the tender. There seems to be a 21.76 mA draw on the battery when I remove the negative from the battery and then test the AMPS between the cable and battery.
I removed the 15 AMP fuse in the security bay and this draw seems to go away.
I really don't want to go without my security system and don't know if this fuse supports any other electrical.
There is no visible corrosion on the ignition switch connections.
Not sure where to trouble shoot next so I figured I would write it in this forum.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Rugbymikes; Jun 21, 2010 at 11:53 AM.
Good thread and good details...however, did you leave this same fuse out you mentioned above for the same period of time to see if that was the problem? (Alarm) Maybe I misunderstood you when you said "the draw goes away" and so does the problem of your battery running down? It seems to me if this is not the case then your not getting a correct reading on the mA draw OR the alarm is drawing more later when your not looking? Otherwise outside of a bad battery (which you can have checked) it could be the charger!!!
My 01' is the same way. I am in the process of replacing the Stator and voltage regular. You may need to check your stator to make sure it is not shorted also. Good luck cause the elctronics are the worst to find.
A 0.022 ampere parasitic current draw should not be enough to drain a fully charged battery in a week, or even a month (or more) for that matter.
I would suspect an internal short in the battery. Sometimes it can take quite a while for a defective grid to wear a hole through the separator plate inside a cell and short that cell. This sort of failure is called a "Bent Wire Grid Short".
BTW, the 13 + Volts you read is due to the surface charge caused by the Battery Tender. This is normal, but do not confuse it with a good battery.
To confirm the battery failure (or not) disconnect it entirely and let it sit for a period of time. It should hold a charge sufficient to start the bike for 30 to 90 days after you remove it from the Battery Tender. I am assuming a 100% State of Charge when you take it off the Battery Tender.
You should have the battery load tested, cause it sounds like it may have a bad cell or two in it.
Remember just because its only two years old that's no guarantee its going to stay good for a lot longer.
Lots of things can cause a battery to go bad that have little or nothing to do with who made it and sticking a lead acid type of battery into a hot oil tank and shaking the crap out of it with a V-Twin engine (balanced or not) and pot holes isn't going to make it last any longer.
Lots of things can cause a battery to go bad that have little or nothing to do with who made it and sticking a lead acid type of battery into a hot oil tank and shaking the crap out of it with a V-Twin engine (balanced or not) and pot holes isn't going to make it last any longer.
Man..........that's funny. Yank it out & have it load tested.
You should have the battery load tested, cause it sounds like it may have a bad cell or two in it.
Remember just because its only two years old that's no guarantee its going to stay good for a lot longer.
Lots of things can cause a battery to go bad that have little or nothing to do with who made it and sticking a lead acid type of battery into a hot oil tank and shaking the crap out of it with a V-Twin engine (balanced or not) and pot holes isn't going to make it last any longer.
A lot of auto parts stores like Advanced Auto can test it for you for free and you don;t even have to take the battery out.
But you will have to pull the seat off when you get there so they can get at the terminals.
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