Removing balancers
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 127
From: Middle of Kansas
Is it the lighter flywheels that make the twin cam vibrate more than an EVO? My EVO shakes a little in my 99 Softail Custom, but no where near what you guys are talking about. I am plenty comfortable at 70 MPH and above for that matter. Just wondering.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 417
Likes: 1
From: Spartanburg, South Carolina
So you want to remove the balancers for performance purposes? To get more HP? I would think there are many better, more efficient ways to get HP and TQ. I don't even think the loss of HP from balancers can be felt on the butt dyno. The numbers would be negligible from what I understand and have read. Just doesn't seem like a good idea IMO.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 3
From: Mebane, NC
and "Don't forget to carry some tools to bolt the pieces back on after they fall off" LOL!.Now, lets get back to the problem at hand...
T-Man has some 103" Stage 3 kits that can produce 120+/120+.
Here are the dyno sheets to prove it. http://www.tmanperformance.com/gallery103_3.htm
There is a 103" here that did 130hp/133tq
http://www.tmanperformance.com/gallery103_3.htm
As you can see 120/120 is defintely possible with a 103" that has the goods. That being said, if you're at 110/115 and you reached a square 120/120, probably the only way you would ever know it is with a piece of paper. I don't think you could possibly feel the difference with the but dyno unless you changed the power curve, and I'm not sure you would even feel it then. This is, of course, all speculative without the engine specs and a dyno to see where you power is being made.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From: Southern IN.
Actually, I think the whole assembly weigh's 'bout 11-12lbs.....If I did'n want the B motor, I'd build a Dyna or a Sporty an' f'get about it.........
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Riverview MI
Well i knew posting this i would get alot of input and have done some research into this i also apologize about bitching about the negative input also. I am not going to be removing balancers from the engine. After reading this article in hotbike i think i am gonna find somebody that can do that kind of work. http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/0807_...ons/index.html Now as far as my combo right now i have Branch pt heads, cp flat top pistons, yeilding 10.4-1 compression ratio, S.E. 260 cam, S.E. Quick install pushrods, stock tappets, stock rocker support plates and rocker arms. S.E. stage one breather with zippers big filter upgrade, exile cycles hi lo drag pipes and for tuning i have the S.E. super tuner. I would like to keep my heads if possible. I also just picked up a S.E. heavy breather. I also plan to pick up a D&D low cat for the build. So what do you guys suggest? I also went through 2 belts last season so i did a chain drive conversion. and added 2 more teeth in the rear sprocket to get some more lower end. (54 tooth to be exact, i cant remember what i got in the front but when i talked to baker they told me that a 52 tooth rear sprocket would be stock gear ratio.) Like i said i want to squeeze all i can out of the bike while still run on 93 octane.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
Gid rid of the SE260 cams. Talk to the Branch guys about what cams they would recommend for their heads. Heads and cams are the only two places you can get more TQ/HP. So, you can find cams the will work with the Branch heads or get rid of the Branch heads along with the 260s and come up with another head/cam combination, like TMan, that will deliver the goods.
Might as well have the crank trued, balanced and welded while you have the balancer work done. I think Hoban Brothers also does this work.
If you went through two belts in one season, it wasn't the TQ/HP that caused that. There are plenty of guy running more guts and have no problems with belts. The belts were probably not adjusted properly.
Might as well have the crank trued, balanced and welded while you have the balancer work done. I think Hoban Brothers also does this work.
If you went through two belts in one season, it wasn't the TQ/HP that caused that. There are plenty of guy running more guts and have no problems with belts. The belts were probably not adjusted properly.
Last edited by djl; Sep 24, 2010 at 12:09 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
The touring bike shakes at idle but by 1500-1800 rpms that's gone and at highway speeds, very smooth without the softail buzz.
Last edited by djl; Sep 24, 2010 at 11:17 AM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
I think you might consider going with a 50 or 54mm throttle body/manifold to increase the air flow ... is your current TB bored out or shaped to improve flow characteristics ...? Could look at swapping out 1.625 stock rocker arms for 1.75:1 ratio rocker arms from Crane ... maybe roller rocker arms ...
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'Chop
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,586
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
25 lbs
Did you read that from a reliable source. Never had it in hand but my guess that would be twice the total for the housings, chain, sprockets that it adds to the engine. I doubt the actual counterbalance wheels weigh 3lbs each. I had a thread and of course it was poorly labeled and now I can not find it but there was some good shots of it and from a user that said his motor ran fine without it and all he did was take it out. I just soon have it. My buddy's Dyna shakes the horn cover loose and I have more power than I need. If I personally wanted something faster or ever available HP I would buy a Hayabusa
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 10:27 AM.