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FatBoy bar help....

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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 12:45 PM
  #1  
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Default FatBoy bar help....

Ok, Yesterday I was going to add the HD street Slammer bars on my 2010 FatBoy. I started to remove the front tank bolt and after 1/2 hour got the rear one out ( tight as hell) took the nut off the concel and lifted it up. I saw on BR bars web site that all you need to do is slide the tank back on the fatboy to get to the wire conectors and not remove the tank. I tried but could only get the tank back a bit but was still short around 1 1/2 inches to the plugs. Am I missing something here? Do I need to remove the fuel lines or something?Anyone do this or have an idea? I want to get back at it tonight.

OOOOPS, One last question. From holding the bars up on the bike they look like the stock lines and cables will work and I am hoping the wires also. So if this is true do I cut the plug off and heat shrink and solder or try to remove the plug pins at the connector.
Hope this is the only 2 questions I have with this project.
Thank you
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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I put apes on my 09 fat boy, i took the tank all the way off, cause it just seemed much easier, all you have to do is drain the gas and take it off at this point anyway it'd make getting at the wires much easier, as far as if your stock wires and cables are long enough i have no clue, but i definately wouldnt cut the plug unless totally necessary, if you look at some of the ape install threads on here there are step by step instructions with pics, that tell you how to take them adapters apart.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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Tired_bird
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Yea drain the fuel and take the tank all the way off. it is much easier and will keep you from throwing tools across the garage.lol.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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The only thing to keep your tank from sliding back further are your gas line (disconnect) and the crossover. You should be able to get it back far enough to get access, but the gas line has to be disconnected.

I take the connectors apart, draw a diagram of where each colored wire goes and put them back together that way I do not have to solder.

Pm me if you need more help. You can take the tank off, but it seems to be unnecessary work at this point.

Drew
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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TheMo
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I removed the tank to get at the wires. I've read that you can slide it back but I felt better by removing it.

The plugs come apart quite easily so no need to cut the wires - unless you need to lengthen them to fit the new bars, I don't know about your street slammers but my WO518's used stock length.

There are many threads on this subject and alot of pics. Service manual is a must read, not that you probably need it for this particular job but just sayin.
 

Last edited by TheMo; Sep 29, 2010 at 01:56 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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i think the make wiring adapters (extensions ) that are plug ang play
like 12 inches long

Harley brand
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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If you use the wiring extensions that are plug and play solder and shrink wrap them too! Avoid any future problems by doing a little extra work in the first place.

Drew
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 04:38 PM
  #8  
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coronerrpm
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Ok, Looks like I am going to drain the tank and go from there. I figure a 4 hour job at most-LOL
I know how to take the fuel line off but for the cross over do I remove the factory crimp clamp and replace with a ( little muffler clamp? Forgot the name of the clamp- screw clamp? I know what it is just the name slipped my mind). I only need to remove one side and put hemostats on it.
Just how bad is this going to get? Sad, but I was a mechanic years ago and had motorcross bikes and hotrods but this is the first time digging into a HD. I was going to wait to do the bars at the same time as the 107" kit but there is some ridding yet in this area.

If anyone has a link to removing the pins from the conectors please let me know as I am at work now.
Sorry I sound like a dumb S#*T.
Thanks guys.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 04:48 PM
  #9  
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Draining the tank can get messy. I cut the clamp off and use hose clamps.

Drew
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #10  
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"Hose clamp", that's it! Sad but it has been a day from hell here at work. Thank's Doc.
 
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