I don't mean to beat this dead horse, but there's 2 details that I can't find mention of anywhere. All the forum posts neglect to mention it, and the one video I saw on how to do this said 6 inches (but that was for a v-rod)

1st - what is the actual spec for this in the service manual? The local dealer told me 2-4in for my 07 night train.

2nd - the "indicator" that is used to measure the amount of fall away, ie, the tip of a stick or piece of stock that is affixed to the wheel. The problem I have is, if you are measuring to the end of the indicator, the length of it is important. If the neck turns 5 degrees each way, the "measured" fall away will vary depending upon the length of the indicator. If you draw two different sized circles on a piece of paper and then draw two lines at some angle, the distance between the intersection points will be higher for the larger diameter...so...when the dealer says 2-4", that is totally worthless to me without knowing how far in front of the front tire I'm suppose to be measuring. And am I measuring linear distance, even though there is rotation, or chord length? To not clearly define this in the repair manual tells me HD is only interested in relieving fools of their money. I also site the extra piece of plastic hose that's used to connect the oil drain...that's right where my started leaking.

FYI, my dealership torqued the p*ss outta the nut on my bike, and i still had a clunk and it pulled hard left (after they applied the bulletin). The mechanic took it for a ride and said, "it doesn't pull." The service manager actually told me Dynas are suppose to clunk...yet the bulletin includes Dynas...

I backed off on the star night, and re-torqued the nut to 80, now it doesn't pull or clunk, but the front end seems a little twitchy. I've got an 09 iron with less trail and that feels much more stable.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Bob

 

I don't see much in that test. By the time you take all cables etc off so nothing is involved you might as well replace the bearings. I doubt that most dealers do this either. I think getting the front wheel off the ground and feeling for play is enough. As far as any high speed wobbles, that can be caused by a lot of things. I had a Sportster years ago that had that condition after having a wider wheel/tire laced on and it turned out to be the tire pressure on the bigger tire.

 

Local dealer just done the fallaway test on a new 2010 Heritage and told me that it should be done before the stearing head in lubricated as the grease could cause a false indiction.. Hence everything checks good for the test after fresh grease installed but after a couple of rides when the grease settles in ther is the possiblity of some slop

 

That's what I'm talking about. If the grease can make a difference, what kind of check is it?

 

From what I experienced with my Fatboy. The fall away needs to be for sure on the snug side. Also, if your having decel wobble issues, then the tire wear is crucial. A tire with 3,000 miles on it, that has been riden with the steering stem out of adjustment, might always have a decel wobble. Get your stem right and tire right at the same time.

 

Year to year and models differ. Only way you will really know is have a 07 service manual. My FXSTD 04 Deuce has a hole in the fender at the bottom to hang a plum bob in to measure it. Book calls for 1-2 inches FOR ALL MODELS EXCEPT FXSTS. It calls for 4-6 inch for the FXSTS. Even when I let it go to 4" it still does not fill overly tight. My bike clunks on the upstroke slightly (on the rebound when the tubes drop out) I doubt if your bike is pulling. Leaning or wind will create this fill. If the bearing were actually loose you would get wonder on a bumpy road and they would need to be rattly loose to do this.

 

seems to me a torque value would get you a lot closer and more acurate to be repetative every time you adjust

 

Copied from the 2007 Service manual.

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS: ALL BUT FLSTSC

ADJUSTMENT

Bearing Adjustment (Fall-away)
1. Support motorcycle in an upright position so the front end is completely suspended and the vehicle is level.
2. Remove all accessory weight, such as a windshield, that may influence the way the front end swings. If clutch cable is routed so it pulls the front end one way or the other, disconnect it.
3. Place a suitable marking material, such as masking tape, over the fender tip.
4. Install a pointer so the base is stationary on the floor and the pointer indicates the center of the fender. The front end should be straight ahead, however the balance point may be slightly off center.
5. Loosen fork stem bracket pinch bolts.
6. Check steering head bearing tension.
a. Tap the fender on one side until the front end begins to "fall-away" by itself. Label this point on the marking material.
b. Repeat the previous step in the other direction.
c. Measure distance between marks.
7. The distance between the "fall-away" marks must be 1.0 - 2.0 in. (25.4 - 50.8 mm). Tighten or loosen the fork adjuster nut/bolt until the measurement is within limits.
a. If the distance is more than 2.0 in. (50.8 mm), loosen the adjuster nut.
b. If it is less than 1.0 in. (25.4 mm), tighten the adjuster nut.

NOTE
If adjustment seems to have no impact, check to see if fork tubes are stuck in clamps. If necessary, strike tubes with a dead blow hammer to free. Retest steering head bearing tension after freeing forks.

8. Tighten fork stem bracket pinch bolts.
a. On FXSTD models, apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE to fork stem bracket pinch bolts before installation. Tighten to 35-40 ft-Ibs (47.5-54.2 Nm).
b. On all models except FXSTD, tighten pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm).
9. Repeat the "fall-away" procedure to be sure the adjustment is correct.

LUBRICATION
Use SPECIAL PURPOSE GREASE (Part No. 99857-97) every 5,000 mile (8,000 km) service interval.
Fill grease fitting on steering neck until grease begins to
come out the top and bottom of the steering head.

 

I ride a hack as you can see. Well I had a hell of a headshake at 27 to 29 miles an hour, it was very violent. I did the fall away test and tighten it a bit, no change. Then I tighten it a little more, some improvement. Well then I cranked it up a notch and made it even tighter, no headshake. That was about 3,000 miles ago and still no headshake. So I'm just saying it doesn't hurt to make it a little tighter. I had taken my steering dampner off prior to doing all of this.
Coyote

 

Rakthi, thanks for the information...quoted directly from the manual was what I needed. I am wondering something else now - the dealer said 2 to 4 inches, so he is either an idiot, or he wanted me to over tighten the bearings. Either way, the dealership in Rochester won't see my bike again.

I did notice the hole in the back of the front fender...does the manual specify the front tip or rear?

Thanks for the feedback,
Bob