Fall Away Test - Again
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
4"
Rakthi, thanks for the information...quoted directly from the manual was what I needed. I am wondering something else now - the dealer said 2 to 4 inches, so he is either an idiot, or he wanted me to over tighten the bearings. Either way, the dealership in Rochester won't see my bike again.
I did notice the hole in the back of the front fender...does the manual specify the front tip or rear?
Thanks for the feedback,
Bob
I did notice the hole in the back of the front fender...does the manual specify the front tip or rear?
Thanks for the feedback,
Bob
WELL NOW I AM CONFUSED. APPEARS I HAVE BEING READING ABOUT WHAT BOLTS TO LOOSEN AND I HAVE BEEN LOOSEN ITEM 26 WITH THE BENT OVER TAB ITEM ITEM 28. NOT SURE NOW IF YOU SHOULD BUT I THOUGHT IT HELD THE TOP TREE DOWN ON THE SLOTTED ADJUSTER. MY BOOK LIST THE TORQUE AS 35-40 FOR STEM NUT AND STEM BRACKET PINCH BOLTS. I READ SOME WHERE THE THE STEM NUT HAD BEEN CHANGED TO 80 WITH A RECALL NOTICE. CAN RAKTHI HELP WITH THIS.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 10:27 AM.
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 22
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From: Rochester, NY
grf000, to tape some arbitrary length pointer to the fender is not the way to go about this. The length will affect the measurement as I mentioned in my initial post, making the video you saw worthless when it comes to accurately measuring the fall away. It is a how to, not an accurate how to, IMO. Degrees of sweep can be the same, but the linear equivalent length (the fall way measurement) will be different depending upon the length of the pointer, period.
Using a plum bob at the rear fender hole, to me, takes the guess work out of this, because the length of the bob won't affect the measurement.
The lower pinch bolts (item #4 on your picture) are 30-35 ft-lbs, quoting the service manager. The service bulletin (M-1215) says to torque the stem nut (item #26) to 100 ft-lbs.
Also, when I tightened the stem nut on mine, all opinions aside, it increased the fall away measurement. So either my bearings were fubar'ed from day one or the top nut does add some preload. Whether or not that's intended, I don't know.
Using a plum bob at the rear fender hole, to me, takes the guess work out of this, because the length of the bob won't affect the measurement.
The lower pinch bolts (item #4 on your picture) are 30-35 ft-lbs, quoting the service manager. The service bulletin (M-1215) says to torque the stem nut (item #26) to 100 ft-lbs.
Also, when I tightened the stem nut on mine, all opinions aside, it increased the fall away measurement. So either my bearings were fubar'ed from day one or the top nut does add some preload. Whether or not that's intended, I don't know.
Last edited by topdong1; Oct 4, 2010 at 01:32 PM. Reason: clarification
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Hole
grf000, to tape some arbitrary length pointer to the fender is not the way to go about this. The length will affect the measurement as I mentioned in my initial post, making the video you saw worthless when it comes to accurately measuring the fall away. It is a how to, not an accurate how to, IMO. Degrees of sweep can be the same, but the linear equivalent length (the fall way measurement) will be different depending upon the length of the pointer, period.
Using a plum bob at the rear fender hole, to me, takes the guess work out of this, because the length of the bob won't affect the measurement.
The lower pinch bolts (item #4 on your picture) are 30-35 ft-lbs, quoting the service manager. The service bulletin (M-1215) says to torque the stem nut (item #26) to 100 ft-lbs.
Also, when I tightened the stem nut on mine, all opinions aside, it increased the fall away measurement. So either my bearings were fubar'ed from day one or the top nut does add some preload. Whether or not that's intended, I don't know.
Using a plum bob at the rear fender hole, to me, takes the guess work out of this, because the length of the bob won't affect the measurement.
The lower pinch bolts (item #4 on your picture) are 30-35 ft-lbs, quoting the service manager. The service bulletin (M-1215) says to torque the stem nut (item #26) to 100 ft-lbs.
Also, when I tightened the stem nut on mine, all opinions aside, it increased the fall away measurement. So either my bearings were fubar'ed from day one or the top nut does add some preload. Whether or not that's intended, I don't know.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,975
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From: NJ
Seems to me that you're overthinking this fall away test. You put a fixed reference point directly in front of the fender and measure the distance before the wheel "falls away". Forget the linear this or arc that.
Repeat it a few times and it's easy to tell whether it's in spec or out of it. My biggest problem was eliminating the drag from the cables/wires. Ended up disconnecting all them.
BTW, according to the 2008 manual the nt specs are 1-2 inches of fall away (total distance) same as my Heritage. More or less requires adjustment.
Repeat it a few times and it's easy to tell whether it's in spec or out of it. My biggest problem was eliminating the drag from the cables/wires. Ended up disconnecting all them.
BTW, according to the 2008 manual the nt specs are 1-2 inches of fall away (total distance) same as my Heritage. More or less requires adjustment.
Last edited by jimmers1817; Oct 4, 2010 at 08:22 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,493
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From: Belgium
Sorry guys, can't help you with service bulletins, only got the 2007 and 2009 manuals.
However, I think you are needlessly complicating this whole matter.
I added a sketch of how the set up is supposed to look.
You tape a piece of paper tape to the tip of the fender, Stick a flexible piece of wire in a block of wood, and bend it so it points at the tip of the fender. Raise the bike, and follow the procedure. Doesn't have to be THAT exact. They talk about "between 1 and 2 inches!)
On my 2009 Xb, I have the plumb hole too, but the procedure is also to tape a piece of tape to the tip of the fender ... no mention of using the hole.
However, I think you are needlessly complicating this whole matter.
I added a sketch of how the set up is supposed to look.
You tape a piece of paper tape to the tip of the fender, Stick a flexible piece of wire in a block of wood, and bend it so it points at the tip of the fender. Raise the bike, and follow the procedure. Doesn't have to be THAT exact. They talk about "between 1 and 2 inches!)
On my 2009 Xb, I have the plumb hole too, but the procedure is also to tape a piece of tape to the tip of the fender ... no mention of using the hole.
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Novice
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Rochester, NY
Thanks Rakthi. I'm sure I'm complicating this for some people, but I'm crystal clear now, the reference point to measure is the tip of the front fender.
The video on youtube showed a V-rod with a stick or something rigid attached to the front fender, and his was measuring to the end of the stick. Hence the need for clarification and I apologize for any added confusion.
The video on youtube showed a V-rod with a stick or something rigid attached to the front fender, and his was measuring to the end of the stick. Hence the need for clarification and I apologize for any added confusion.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 502
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Like some others i think the fall away is not that important.
Ok what about the caliper and rotor won't they cause the side to fall away faster that has them mounted on it meaning their weight if mounted on the right side would cause the right side to fall away faster, not further again as soon as you start to push the wheel to the side that has the extra weight it would fall sooner even the handle bars if the weight on one end was heavier then the other.
Maybe i am wrong but i think theses things would cause the fall away to be off
Ok what about the caliper and rotor won't they cause the side to fall away faster that has them mounted on it meaning their weight if mounted on the right side would cause the right side to fall away faster, not further again as soon as you start to push the wheel to the side that has the extra weight it would fall sooner even the handle bars if the weight on one end was heavier then the other.
Maybe i am wrong but i think theses things would cause the fall away to be off
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Little effect
Like some others i think the fall away is not that important.
Ok what about the caliper and rotor won't they cause the side to fall away faster that has them mounted on it meaning their weight if mounted on the right side would cause the right side to fall away faster, not further again as soon as you start to push the wheel to the side that has the extra weight it would fall sooner even the handle bars if the weight on one end was heavier then the other.
Maybe i am wrong but i think theses things would cause the fall away to be off
Ok what about the caliper and rotor won't they cause the side to fall away faster that has them mounted on it meaning their weight if mounted on the right side would cause the right side to fall away faster, not further again as soon as you start to push the wheel to the side that has the extra weight it would fall sooner even the handle bars if the weight on one end was heavier then the other.
Maybe i am wrong but i think theses things would cause the fall away to be off
My windshield has little effect. I have the clutch cable pulled in tight with two reusable ty-wraps and it tends to throw it off center slightly more but the total is the same. The total is what you are looking for and you are correct that the things mentioned above do not affect it. Tonight me and a couple friends got together, an older FX ,my deuce and a Dyna Bob and all have the hole in the fender. I did some rough measurements and did some simple trig. Appears that all three bike with a plum bob off the fender produce a slight smaller length distance then with a pointer on the front fender. (meaning on our bike at least if you use the pointer system you will not have the preload on the bearing quite as tight a the plum bob method. I have found that my bike and the way I like it is a least two inches more then the book. The two FX's when you drop the plum line down and stand back it's pretty much directly below the forks. Do not think you can over think this. I am with Oct1949, you need to do some thinking because the service manual leave a little to be desired. Especially the omission of not loosening the stem nut with the lock plate.
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