Which cam grind will go with the HD Hydraulic Conversion kit ?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 10
From: Orange VA
For the fasteners….and everything else assuming you wanted to try to go the non-kit route:
HD part number, Description
26037-06 Oil pump assembly
25355-06 Cam support plate assembly
4741A Cam Support plate mounting screws; (10 pcs req'd.) – can resue old
11461 Retaining ring (for front cam) – can reuse old if you are careful
25683-06 Inner roller chain
39969-06 Inner chain tensioner
4740A Inner chain tensioner mounting screws; (2 pcs req'd.)
25675-06 Outer roller chain
39968-06 Outer chain tensioner
942 Outer chain tensioner mounting screws; (2 pcs req'd.)
25729-06 Spacer (.100 for cam alignment; use as required) – most bikes aren’t out more than .120
25731-06 Spacer (.110 for cam alignment; use as required)
25734-06 Spacer (.120 for cam alignment; use as required)
25736-06 Spacer (.130 for cam alignment; use as required)
25737-06 Spacer (.140 for cam alignment; use as required)
25738-06 Spacer (.150 for cam alignment; use as required)
25673-06 Crankshaft pinion shaft sprocket (17 teeth)
25244-99A Outer cover gasket
25728-06 Stock rear cam sprocket (34 teeth) (2002-'06 only)
Use of stock '06 sprockets on '99, '00 or 2001 conversion
cam installations will result in engine alarm light always ON!
Following part MUST be used with all '99, '00, '01 engines)!
216015
And then of course inner cam bearings, pushrods, lifter cover gaskets, oil, etc…
HD part number, Description
26037-06 Oil pump assembly
25355-06 Cam support plate assembly
4741A Cam Support plate mounting screws; (10 pcs req'd.) – can resue old
11461 Retaining ring (for front cam) – can reuse old if you are careful
25683-06 Inner roller chain
39969-06 Inner chain tensioner
4740A Inner chain tensioner mounting screws; (2 pcs req'd.)
25675-06 Outer roller chain
39968-06 Outer chain tensioner
942 Outer chain tensioner mounting screws; (2 pcs req'd.)
25729-06 Spacer (.100 for cam alignment; use as required) – most bikes aren’t out more than .120
25731-06 Spacer (.110 for cam alignment; use as required)
25734-06 Spacer (.120 for cam alignment; use as required)
25736-06 Spacer (.130 for cam alignment; use as required)
25737-06 Spacer (.140 for cam alignment; use as required)
25738-06 Spacer (.150 for cam alignment; use as required)
25673-06 Crankshaft pinion shaft sprocket (17 teeth)
25244-99A Outer cover gasket
25728-06 Stock rear cam sprocket (34 teeth) (2002-'06 only)
Use of stock '06 sprockets on '99, '00 or 2001 conversion
cam installations will result in engine alarm light always ON!
Following part MUST be used with all '99, '00, '01 engines)!
216015
And then of course inner cam bearings, pushrods, lifter cover gaskets, oil, etc…
I am with strokerjlk on the 26s; IMHO the best all around bolt in cam for an 88", cam only modification.
You can purchase the parts for the '07 and later hydraulic conversion package from Zanottis for $370. Just order the parts from the Andrews parts list. The only parts not clearly addressed in that list are the fasteners used to attach the tenioner holders to the cam plate; I get mine from a local hardware store but anybody with a later parts manual can cough up the part numbers for those screws. That should bring your upgrade cost down to less than $700.
Nothing wrong with the hybrid kit but there have been some problems with the billet plate. You can also order the hybrid kit from Zanotti's and save some money.
You can purchase the parts for the '07 and later hydraulic conversion package from Zanottis for $370. Just order the parts from the Andrews parts list. The only parts not clearly addressed in that list are the fasteners used to attach the tenioner holders to the cam plate; I get mine from a local hardware store but anybody with a later parts manual can cough up the part numbers for those screws. That should bring your upgrade cost down to less than $700.
Nothing wrong with the hybrid kit but there have been some problems with the billet plate. You can also order the hybrid kit from Zanotti's and save some money.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 10
From: Orange VA
Good point. Definitely want to replace the inner cam bearings while you are in there. OEM INA bearings are fine. Some suggest they aren't great for big cams but for bolt ins they will do the trick. Never heard of stock bearings failing with bolt ins. But for a couple extra bucks you could upgrade to Timkin or other and feel more secure.
Unless you know someone with the tool you can borrow, a new or eBay bought used inner cam bearing removal/installation tool will cost you about $100. Arguably you can just buy the removal tool and just use old cams to tap new bearings in place. Old cams will bottom out, leaving bearings at the right depth. Not the most precise method but saves you a few bucks if you are comfortable doing it.
For this set of cams I opted to let a mechanic handle the removal and installation of the cam bearings. Took him the bike with cam chest empty. Bearings were only a few bucks and removal/installation ran me about $100; same as what tool would cost. But I didn't have to mess with it.
Everything else was DIY.
Unless you know someone with the tool you can borrow, a new or eBay bought used inner cam bearing removal/installation tool will cost you about $100. Arguably you can just buy the removal tool and just use old cams to tap new bearings in place. Old cams will bottom out, leaving bearings at the right depth. Not the most precise method but saves you a few bucks if you are comfortable doing it.
For this set of cams I opted to let a mechanic handle the removal and installation of the cam bearings. Took him the bike with cam chest empty. Bearings were only a few bucks and removal/installation ran me about $100; same as what tool would cost. But I didn't have to mess with it.
Everything else was DIY.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
nice looking cams. have to admit they look nice. I would like to try a set in someones 88 and or 95 ci. they do look better than the 26's. never heard of them thanks for sharing.
here is a 88ci all stock except for the welded crank. that went south. long shots without baffles.
here is a 88ci with 203's all stock otherwise. 05 roadking stock head pipes. and e bay no name mufflers. clutch was stock with 55,000 miles. slipping some. sorry STD correction factor is all I have on this computer. went 80/94 sae looks like the extra lift of your cams is good for a little extra hp over the 26's. although your looks like it could have some left in it. I would think the TQ. would have been a little more ,is what I am trying to say I guess.
nice regardless.....Carbed or EFI?
here is a 88ci all stock except for the welded crank. that went south. long shots without baffles.
here is a 88ci with 203's all stock otherwise. 05 roadking stock head pipes. and e bay no name mufflers. clutch was stock with 55,000 miles. slipping some. sorry STD correction factor is all I have on this computer. went 80/94 sae looks like the extra lift of your cams is good for a little extra hp over the 26's. although your looks like it could have some left in it. I would think the TQ. would have been a little more ,is what I am trying to say I guess.
nice regardless.....Carbed or EFI?
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Good point. Definitely want to replace the inner cam bearings while you are in there. OEM INA bearings are fine. Some suggest they aren't great for big cams but for bolt ins they will do the trick. Never heard of stock bearings failing with bolt ins. But for a couple extra bucks you could upgrade to Timkin or other and feel more secure.
Unless you know someone with the tool you can borrow, a new or eBay bought used inner cam bearing removal/installation tool will cost you about $100. Arguably you can just buy the removal tool and just use old cams to tap new bearings in place. Old cams will bottom out, leaving bearings at the right depth. Not the most precise method but saves you a few bucks if you are comfortable doing it.
For this set of cams I opted to let a mechanic handle the removal and installation of the cam bearings. Took him the bike with cam chest empty. Bearings were only a few bucks and removal/installation ran me about $100; same as what tool would cost. But I didn't have to mess with it.
Everything else was DIY.
Unless you know someone with the tool you can borrow, a new or eBay bought used inner cam bearing removal/installation tool will cost you about $100. Arguably you can just buy the removal tool and just use old cams to tap new bearings in place. Old cams will bottom out, leaving bearings at the right depth. Not the most precise method but saves you a few bucks if you are comfortable doing it.
For this set of cams I opted to let a mechanic handle the removal and installation of the cam bearings. Took him the bike with cam chest empty. Bearings were only a few bucks and removal/installation ran me about $100; same as what tool would cost. But I didn't have to mess with it.
Everything else was DIY.
a harbor freight blind hole puller works fine for the inner cam bearings . 39.95. SE has the torrington bearings under the SE name now also. they are the same as torrington B148 B168
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,796
Likes: 36
From: Toronto, Ontario
I will probably go with the HD kit, if I wanted to avoid American Classic Motors.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
nice looking cams. have to admit they look nice. I would like to try a set in someones 88 and or 95 ci. they do look better than the 26's. never heard of them thanks for sharing.
here is a 88ci all stock except for the welded crank. that went south. long shots without baffles.
here is a 88ci with 203's all stock otherwise. 05 roadking stock head pipes. and e bay no name mufflers. clutch was stock with 55,000 miles. slipping some. sorry STD correction factor is all I have on this computer. went 80/94 sae looks like the extra lift of your cams is good for a little extra hp over the 26's. although your looks like it could have some left in it. I would think the TQ. would have been a little more ,is what I am trying to say I guess.
nice regardless.....Carbed or EFI?
here is a 88ci all stock except for the welded crank. that went south. long shots without baffles.
here is a 88ci with 203's all stock otherwise. 05 roadking stock head pipes. and e bay no name mufflers. clutch was stock with 55,000 miles. slipping some. sorry STD correction factor is all I have on this computer. went 80/94 sae looks like the extra lift of your cams is good for a little extra hp over the 26's. although your looks like it could have some left in it. I would think the TQ. would have been a little more ,is what I am trying to say I guess.
nice regardless.....Carbed or EFI?
Impressive numbers considering 88" and stock heads. Are you the tuner?
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Just want to say I just installed the SE tensioner plate upgrade kit, Torrington inner cam bearings, and a set of TW26 cams. I did not touch the top end, even though it is only 88 ci , I could not be happier with the way it runs.
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Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,796
Likes: 36
From: Toronto, Ontario
Well, this page (which seems to be one of the very popular ones on tuning TC 88)
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdstage2.htm
Suggests that the 37 maybe a good choice for my FXST ? and this will go with the Story been saying and I really want to be like him when I grow up
LOL
check the web page under "Bolt-in camshaft selector twin-cam 88/95"
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdstage2.htm
Suggests that the 37 maybe a good choice for my FXST ? and this will go with the Story been saying and I really want to be like him when I grow up
LOLcheck the web page under "Bolt-in camshaft selector twin-cam 88/95"