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and in addressing the torque of spark plugs, been doing pro wrenching for more than 40 yrs, Never have I ever bothered torquing a plug. you tighten them snug and give them a little "umph" and they'er done.if you think torque matters, by all means continue to do so, but when you're working on a V12 in a SL, with barely enough room to get the plug socket on the plug let alone get enough swing to put proper torque techniques in place, you just don't want them falling out, know what I mean?
just because you don't put plugs in a hot motor doesn't mean others don't. no reason not to other than burning yourself, secondly plugs may or may not have had antisieze put on prior to installation, not all mechanics use the stuff, I do, and believe in it, but thats just me. third while current flows at a high rate (186000 mps) it doesnt jump gaps at the same rate. different metals will conduct the current better and metal with lower resistance will allow it to jump easier. its not hard to believe this vid. from a mechanics standpoint, I do believe its true and accurate, by the way I don't run the NGK plugs at this time, but I may consider it next plug change. every little bit helps
well said,look at the dyno graph,it straight the power line.
just because you don't put plugs in a hot motor doesn't mean others don't. no reason not to other than burning yourself, secondly plugs may or may not have had antisieze put on prior to installation, not all mechanics use the stuff, I do, and believe in it, but thats just me. third while current flows at a high rate (186000 mps) it doesnt jump gaps at the same rate. different metals will conduct the current better and metal with lower resistance will allow it to jump easier. its not hard to believe this vid. from a mechanics standpoint, I do believe its true and accurate, by the way I don't run the NGK plugs at this time, but I may consider it next plug change. every little bit helps
I thought better of my post and decided to change it. Didn't get to it soon enough.
But just for conversation:
I never put cool plugs into a hot engine because it's too easy to damage the threads, even when cool. Also thought about anti-sieze already on the threads, but he picked the plugs off the saddle. Anti-sieze is messy, will get on the saddle and then the customer's clothing. There may be slight differences in the speed electricity travels through different conductors at ambient temperatures, but compared to the relatively slow speed of pistons going up and down, the difference is infitessimal.
I think even spark plug manufacturers are careful about the way they advertise their products; careful to not make claims they can't back up. If one could get one horsepower more out of an engine or as much torque gain as the video shows, I'm thinking that the plug manufacturer would have already done a nationwide ad campaign.
Thanks. Interesting series. There's a lot to agree with as well as a couple of points with which I am not on board. Plugs and oil are the two that I question.
Air Cleaner, exhaust, and at least a canned map for the combination of parts at the end make the most difference that I'm sure he could duplicate time after time. (a real tune probably would have brought out even better WOT numbers) Not tuning between every component change didn't really do justice to each change.
But getting back to the plugs, if simply changing brands of plugs would make even 1% difference in performance, all manufacturers would incorporate the technology in theirs. I don't even uses S.E. plugs in my motor because they mess with the knock sensing. My motor has spent literally many HOURS on a dyno with somewhat the same kind of A:B comparisons. It's on my website.
I've seen the effects of plugs that were not compatible with knock sensing and plug wires, as well. I'm sticking with HD's.
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