FXCW, LED Bulbs in the front flickering
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Sooke BC
FXCW, LED Bulbs in the front flickering
Iv moved my front turn signals down the the bikes frame, just infront of the forward controls. I was blowing bulbs VERY OFTEN... It must be from the vibration from the 96B.
So I decided to install some LED Bulbs. how ever, when they are in the "Low" state. They flicker. I was told by the Dealer these were a direct replacemnt, had proper resistance, and wouldnt need any other modifications.. Is there somthing else I have over looked?
So I decided to install some LED Bulbs. how ever, when they are in the "Low" state. They flicker. I was told by the Dealer these were a direct replacemnt, had proper resistance, and wouldnt need any other modifications.. Is there somthing else I have over looked?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Hershey, Pennsylvania
If your electrical harness has any of the shielding worn on the wires where water could have gotten to it (either from washing the bike or rain) or it is touching the frame and occasionally getting grounded, it can cause a decrease in the life of incandescent bulbs and cause your LED's to flicker.
You should get your electrical system checked out as the best case scenario is you keep loosing lights and have a slow drain on the battery. Absolute worse case is it causes a fire or causes the battery to explode.
Your motor would have to vibrate so bad your hands are numb, you would feel a tingle on your thigh muscles, and your mirrors would be unusable for your bulbs to blow out. If thats not the case, then you probably have a short in your electrical system.
You should get your electrical system checked out as the best case scenario is you keep loosing lights and have a slow drain on the battery. Absolute worse case is it causes a fire or causes the battery to explode.
Your motor would have to vibrate so bad your hands are numb, you would feel a tingle on your thigh muscles, and your mirrors would be unusable for your bulbs to blow out. If thats not the case, then you probably have a short in your electrical system.
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Tourer
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From: Sooke BC
Iv gone threw the electrical system. There have been no cuts or any kind of shielding problems. The lights are literaly bolted to the engine mount.
I thought that there may have been a problem like that. When I questioned the dealer about it. They came to the same conclusion. Wich is why I switched to the LED bulbs in the first place.
Im coing to be swapping the entire light housing from the grey to the black in the spring. At wich time the wires will be soldered into place, water proofed and sealed. RE-Checked, And re-installed. Im also going from directly bolting them to the fram to using ring clamps. Wich should help a little bit.
I have a LONG time to figure this out.. as Im slightly north... lol.. UP IN THE SNOW!
I was just hoping that someone would have better insight then my own diagnosis, and the dealers. lol.
I thought that there may have been a problem like that. When I questioned the dealer about it. They came to the same conclusion. Wich is why I switched to the LED bulbs in the first place.
Im coing to be swapping the entire light housing from the grey to the black in the spring. At wich time the wires will be soldered into place, water proofed and sealed. RE-Checked, And re-installed. Im also going from directly bolting them to the fram to using ring clamps. Wich should help a little bit.
I have a LONG time to figure this out.. as Im slightly north... lol.. UP IN THE SNOW!
I was just hoping that someone would have better insight then my own diagnosis, and the dealers. lol.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Potsdam, NY
If it is flickering you have a bad connection or the bulbs you installed are defective. I've never heard of LED bulbs that have an internal resistor.
You do not need a resistor (installed in parallel) except on turn signal bulbs. This is because most turn signal relays are electro-mechanical and need the original higher current flow. What happens normally with a direct swap of LEDs is the turn signals blink super fast. The best fix for this is just to replace the turn signal relay with a solid state one purchased from any auto parts store instead of installing a resistor. You get the additional power savings LEDs offer this way. For a brake light or always on light you do not need to do anything.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
You do not need a resistor (installed in parallel) except on turn signal bulbs. This is because most turn signal relays are electro-mechanical and need the original higher current flow. What happens normally with a direct swap of LEDs is the turn signals blink super fast. The best fix for this is just to replace the turn signal relay with a solid state one purchased from any auto parts store instead of installing a resistor. You get the additional power savings LEDs offer this way. For a brake light or always on light you do not need to do anything.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
Last edited by fat_tony; Jan 7, 2011 at 12:30 PM.
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Tourer
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From: Sooke BC
This is the turn light. Its the combo running/turn blub. Its bright as hell when its blinking to turn, but when in the low/running light mode it flickers. and it flickers in time with the vibration/RPM of the bike.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Fairhope, Alabama
I've had mine down there for about a year. I never noticed them (OEM bulbs) flickering. They did blow when they went under water (bad rain on the way to thunderbeach). When I cut them loose to pull them out of the bars, I did soldier them back together. This may be a dumb question but.... do they flicker when the motor is not running?
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Tourer
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From: hobart, in.
If they're flickering with the rpm, it sounds like you're getting interference from the ignition somehow or a bad connection somewhere. The B engine really doesn't vibrate too much and if that were the problem I would think we would all be having some sort of issues. A weak ground will also cause bizarre issues. Definitely start at the connections. How did you splice the wires together, Butt connectors, just twisted them together and tape? Not being sarcastic, just trying to get a better idea, but even if they seem tight there could still be issues. The best way is to solder and also use heat shrink to weather proof.
