i get on avg 80-90 k on a standard set of champions in all my mopar cagers.. why spend a fortune on nothing more than a marketing campaign..

 

My EVO seems to like the HD plugs just fine. I took them out the other day at 10,000 miles, and they looked like new with just a little tan color to them. I have never used anti seize on my plugs, but always coat the threads with a little motor oil before I put them in. Never had a problem.

 

Synthetic or Dino?

 

Do you know if the gap will effect the resistance level? Example - larger gap = greater resisatnce, smaller gap = less resistance...

 

If your computerized 2005 on up stay with HD plugs your computer reads these plugs to complete the curcuit . Before 2005 it doesn't matter it's up to you which one's you choose!

 

I just came across this reply below that's from a Delphi engineer regarding HD's Ion sensing system and spark plug resistance levels. The funny thing is, after you read through all of the technical speak and engineering jargon, the recommended fix to a common problem is to squeeze the plug wire terminal with pliers! lol


"Regarding the OEM Champion plugs the resistive element that they use is not a resistor; it is a semiconductor suppression element. The effective resistance is specified to be 6k-15k. Furthermore, there is a fairly strong negative temperature coefficient, so the resistance decreases at normal operating temperature. In my experience, I have typically seen it in the range of about 2k-5k when the engine is running.

Note: Because the suppression element is not a resistor, it cannot be reliably measured with a conventional ohmmeter. The resistance of the element must be measured in an apparatus that provides 1000V pulses (per conversation with a Federal Mogul engineer).

You made it clear that this is all the information you wanted. However, if you want some insight into the ion sense system and related trouble codes, you may read on.

With regards to ion sensing, there is absolutely nothing magic about the Champion suppression element. Any trouble codes that you encounter have nothing to do with the resistance of the spark plug. Our circuit is designed so that we can tolerate a very wide range of resistances. We can easily operate with spark plug resistances from zero to 20k.

The ion current that we measure is in the range of 0-50 microamps. To avoid ion sense related trouble codes, you must have perfect continuity from the ignition coil to the spark plug tip. We have trouble codes P1353 and P1356 (front and rear cylinder, respectively) that are detected if we see no ion current under high speed/load conditions (where the ion current should be strongest). These codes will detect an open circuit in the ignition secondary circuit.

Additionally, we have trouble codes P1357 and P1358 (front and rear cylinder, respectively) that are detected if we see excessive noise on the ion signal. The intention of these codes is to detect an intermittent terminal.

We went through a lot of evaluation of spark plug wire terminals in order to select the one that captures the Champion terminal profile the best. Different plugs have different terminal profiles, so I suspect that’s where the issue is. I recommend “adjusting” the plug wire terminal with a pair of pliers. "

 

"Delphi engineer"
“adjusting” the plug wire terminal with a pair of pliers"

Happy to hear I'm not the only one to resort to a hammer or vice grips if the need arises

 

Sounds to me like any plug within the proper heat range is fine.
Am I wrong?

 

I have just switched to Iridium NGK and I did not noticed any significant problem. It works a little bit better than the HD. My bike is a FLHRI 2002 model. What symptoms do I have to look for?

 

I curruntly have the same plugs in mine. Don't notice anything different in performance.
I've used several brands and colder heat ranges with no perceptible difference.