Fatboy Won't Start - Please help
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 9
From: Connecticut
I would look at the swtich wires as when the swtich fries the terminals get hot and has a poor connection, thats what it sounds like with the bike that shuts off and then will start. When the swtich is replaced you should change the connecter for the swtich as a poor connection there will causes this. I'd look there first. Remove the connecter and see if they are clean and tight
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From:
Ok so I check the codes
Run sw on, hold od button, turn on ignition
Gauges sweep, dash lights on the off and P55Pt shows up on the od with the 1st P flashing
Push the od and the following codes come up after each push
P 261, P 263, P1353, P1356
Push the od and the 5 flashes, another push and the word none meaning no codes, try this with the 5P and the t and in both cases the word none comes up = no more codes
Tried this 3 times with the same results each time
Conclusions
P 261 = Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P 263 = Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P1353 = Front Cylinder No Compression
P1356 = Rear Cylinder No Compression
Question could the codes 1353 and 1356 be from removing the spark plug and checking for spark?
Going to try and check the coil, the ignition switch and the run switch for pinched or broken wires next
All inputs are greatly appreciated
Studman
Run sw on, hold od button, turn on ignition
Gauges sweep, dash lights on the off and P55Pt shows up on the od with the 1st P flashing
Push the od and the following codes come up after each push
P 261, P 263, P1353, P1356
Push the od and the 5 flashes, another push and the word none meaning no codes, try this with the 5P and the t and in both cases the word none comes up = no more codes
Tried this 3 times with the same results each time
Conclusions
P 261 = Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P 263 = Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P1353 = Front Cylinder No Compression
P1356 = Rear Cylinder No Compression
Question could the codes 1353 and 1356 be from removing the spark plug and checking for spark?
Going to try and check the coil, the ignition switch and the run switch for pinched or broken wires next
All inputs are greatly appreciated
Studman
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From:
Well guys first off I would like to thank everyone for all the imput it sure did help getting through this.
I am fixed!! It appears to have been a bad system relay
After tracing things back from the plugs, I got to the relay, stopped at the dealer on the way home from the airportand picked one up, drop in the new one and she fires right up like nothing was wrong in the first place.
Still would like to know why. Also could someone tell me how to clear the codes so I know if anything else could be wrong
again thanks to all
Studman
I am fixed!! It appears to have been a bad system relay
After tracing things back from the plugs, I got to the relay, stopped at the dealer on the way home from the airportand picked one up, drop in the new one and she fires right up like nothing was wrong in the first place.
Still would like to know why. Also could someone tell me how to clear the codes so I know if anything else could be wrong
again thanks to all
Studman
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
If you do a search on "how to clear trouble/error codes" that should get you there. I dont know how to post a link or I would. Now take that 100 dollars you saved from not going to the dealer for diagnostic crap and buy yourself a beer.
Account Closed
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 682
Likes: 1
From: In the World
Plus one as a high possible. Could also be short induced when switch was replaced. As rule...learned from crusty old biker..leave run/stop switch in run position always and just use main rotary switch....except for new bikes (only Softails for 2011) which use a CAN bus. Anyhow...check main relay....check ECM fuze....check wiring and contacts of replaced switch...it may be crimping to ground or you may have shaky contacts.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Southern Indiana
Sounds like you should start where your bike is grounded at the frame. Remove and sand a little to make fresh then check your spark. If your battery is losing charge it may be your charging system.
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Stage I
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Hartford
Have you ever changed the crank sensor?
Sorry I am so late to the party but I just basically had the exact same thing happen to the exact same (stock) bike. Went through the OBD list, read the codes, and discovered a bad crank sensor message. upon further research, I discovered the sensors used in 04' were junk and there have been 2 more iterations of this part since. I actually own a guass meter for checking aircraft engines after lightning strikes and the original sensor was significantly weaker than the replacement unit. piece of cake to change as it is the little piece that you have to be careful of when removing the oil filter. The HD oil filter socket has a cutout for it. One allen bolt, a connector behind the regulator which can get oil soaked if you are a slob like me during filter changes. Fixed me right up. It seems to fire on the first crank rather than the couple of cranks it used to require. Just wanted to throw that out there in case someone else reads this list. Learn the code reading/clearing process.
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AdrianVall
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