I've been having issues with the clutch and shifting, and it's progressively getting worse. It feels like the clutch never "fully" releases when the clutch handle is fully squeezed. So, I figured I would try and adjust it.
Following the textbook instructions I've found all over the internet in terms of adjusting the clutch itself, I then turned to the cable. I cannot get the cable to take out the excess slack. If I back out the adjustment screw on the cable until the two halves are completely separated, I still have a good 1/2" or more of slack. Is this a bad clutch, or a bad cable, or both?

 

Did you open your Derby Cover and unlock the nut all the way out as per instructions ?

What you are facing is called 'drag' , it is not the worst thing, but you should fix it.

 

p.s. April Issue of AIM had a full article by Donney Peterson on that and you can find this detailed in the 'fix my HOG' DVD as well or in your maintenance book.

 

Sometimes an overfilled primary can cause clutch issues. 07 and up softails take 32 oz's of primary oil and 00-06 take 24-26 oz's.

Drew

 

Adjusting the clutch and adjusting the cable free play are two different things.

 

Yes I did. I followed the video on youtube for both the clutch adjustment and the cable adjustment.

It has to be fixed. I can't even ride the bike anymore because of it. It's nearly impossible to shift.

i have a '96. It's got about a quart.

I understand that. I tried to adjust both. I can't seem to get enough play out of the cable, AND I can't get the clutch to FULLY disengage. I have a feeling that these two symptoms could be somewhat related.

I am brand new to bikes. I've done work on cars all mylife, but never bikes.
My question is, is it likely the cable is over stretched due to age? Should I replace it before trying to replace the clutch?

Before I tried adjusting everything, the symptoms I faced were:
The bike was impossible to get into neutral with the engine running. With the engine off, it would drop right in.
Shifting to second, sometimes third, and back to first was difficult and very clunky - especially the shift from first to second or second to first.
In the past week, shifting from first to second has gotten nearly impossible. I've had to cost at low speed trying to shift for a good three minutes or so before I could finally "jam" it into gear.
I really need to get this fixed. So, I am asking, from a newb to seasoned diy riders/repairers, what is most likely the cause?

Thanks!

 

I'm not sure what that youtube video tells you to do, but before you adjust the jam nut behind the derby cover, step 1 is to tighten all the slack from the cable adjustment, so you start with a nice short cable. Then do the adjustment nut thing, and use the cable adjustment for any fine tuning. You should not have that much play in your cable. If the adjustment nut were done correctly, there should NOT be any slack in your cable whatsoever. Can you see the clutch plates coming out when you squeeze the clutch?

If all these things are done properly (verify this like 8 times in 8 ways by 8 friends, cause afterwards it gets expensive), it really kind of sounds like a new clutch is in order. But if it were me, I'd get a new cable first and see if that fixes it. No way to tell of a burnt clutch other than it doesn't work (that I know of), so a $40 cable sounds better, in my head anyway.

 

This is the links to the videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zl92wwLiNwE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiC5d...feature=relmfu

To answer the question, yes, I did see it move some. It wasn't much though.

Thanks. I guess I will go ahead and order a standard clutch cable from J&P. It isn't that much.
How difficult is the install? It looks like the exhaust pipes are in the way of the cover that would have to be removed to install it.

 

Whats the bike's milage and how many miles since last clutch adjustment? Wouldnt run out and buy anything just yet until convinced its still not just out of adjustment.

 

The two step adjustment has to be done in sequence.

It has always been my understanding that the first thing you do is let out some cable "slack" by loosening the clutch cable. It must be just loose, not totally unscrewed from at the adjusting point.

You then loosen the clutch locking nut and adjust the pushrod to make contact with the clutch release and back it off a proper amount of turning outward. Manual say only a 1/2 turn, moving away from contacting the clutch release... not tightening it in, but back it off! Then set the locking nut.

Next is taking the slack out of the cable to the point of only having about 1/8 of an inch movement (play) of the clutch lever before it pulls the cable. You will feel the pull getting harder when it's making contact with the clutch release.

These adjustments should give you about a 2" travel before full release / engagement of the clutch.

Things that can go wrong ... a stretched or damaged cable. And not setting the pushrod exactly right ... that is if everything else in in good working order prior to the cable adjust issue.

I hope all this help gets you back on the road!!!