clutch issues
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
From: Warner Robins, GA
clutch issues
I've been having issues with the clutch and shifting, and it's progressively getting worse. It feels like the clutch never "fully" releases when the clutch handle is fully squeezed. So, I figured I would try and adjust it.
Following the textbook instructions I've found all over the internet in terms of adjusting the clutch itself, I then turned to the cable. I cannot get the cable to take out the excess slack. If I back out the adjustment screw on the cable until the two halves are completely separated, I still have a good 1/2" or more of slack. Is this a bad clutch, or a bad cable, or both?
Following the textbook instructions I've found all over the internet in terms of adjusting the clutch itself, I then turned to the cable. I cannot get the cable to take out the excess slack. If I back out the adjustment screw on the cable until the two halves are completely separated, I still have a good 1/2" or more of slack. Is this a bad clutch, or a bad cable, or both?
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
From: Warner Robins, GA
It has to be fixed. I can't even ride the bike anymore because of it. It's nearly impossible to shift.
I am brand new to bikes. I've done work on cars all mylife, but never bikes.
My question is, is it likely the cable is over stretched due to age? Should I replace it before trying to replace the clutch?
Before I tried adjusting everything, the symptoms I faced were:
The bike was impossible to get into neutral with the engine running. With the engine off, it would drop right in.
Shifting to second, sometimes third, and back to first was difficult and very clunky - especially the shift from first to second or second to first.
In the past week, shifting from first to second has gotten nearly impossible. I've had to cost at low speed trying to shift for a good three minutes or so before I could finally "jam" it into gear.
I really need to get this fixed. So, I am asking, from a newb to seasoned diy riders/repairers, what is most likely the cause?
Thanks!
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 705
Likes: 8
From: southern IL
I'm not sure what that youtube video tells you to do, but before you adjust the jam nut behind the derby cover, step 1 is to tighten all the slack from the cable adjustment, so you start with a nice short cable. Then do the adjustment nut thing, and use the cable adjustment for any fine tuning. You should not have that much play in your cable. If the adjustment nut were done correctly, there should NOT be any slack in your cable whatsoever. Can you see the clutch plates coming out when you squeeze the clutch?
If all these things are done properly (verify this like 8 times in 8 ways by 8 friends, cause afterwards it gets expensive), it really kind of sounds like a new clutch is in order. But if it were me, I'd get a new cable first and see if that fixes it. No way to tell of a burnt clutch other than it doesn't work (that I know of), so a $40 cable sounds better, in my head anyway.
If all these things are done properly (verify this like 8 times in 8 ways by 8 friends, cause afterwards it gets expensive), it really kind of sounds like a new clutch is in order. But if it were me, I'd get a new cable first and see if that fixes it. No way to tell of a burnt clutch other than it doesn't work (that I know of), so a $40 cable sounds better, in my head anyway.
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
From: Warner Robins, GA
I'm not sure what that youtube video tells you to do, but before you adjust the jam nut behind the derby cover, step 1 is to tighten all the slack from the cable adjustment, so you start with a nice short cable. Then do the adjustment nut thing, and use the cable adjustment for any fine tuning. You should not have that much play in your cable. If the adjustment nut were done correctly, there should NOT be any slack in your cable whatsoever. Can you see the clutch plates coming out when you squeeze the clutch?.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zl92wwLiNwE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiC5d...feature=relmfu
To answer the question, yes, I did see it move some. It wasn't much though.
If all these things are done properly (verify this like 8 times in 8 ways by 8 friends, cause afterwards it gets expensive), it really kind of sounds like a new clutch is in order. But if it were me, I'd get a new cable first and see if that fixes it. No way to tell of a burnt clutch other than it doesn't work (that I know of), so a $40 cable sounds better, in my head anyway.
How difficult is the install? It looks like the exhaust pipes are in the way of the cover that would have to be removed to install it.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
The two step adjustment has to be done in sequence.
It has always been my understanding that the first thing you do is let out some cable "slack" by loosening the clutch cable. It must be just loose, not totally unscrewed from at the adjusting point.
You then loosen the clutch locking nut and adjust the pushrod to make contact with the clutch release and back it off a proper amount of turning outward. Manual say only a 1/2 turn, moving away from contacting the clutch release... not tightening it in, but back it off! Then set the locking nut.
Next is taking the slack out of the cable to the point of only having about 1/8 of an inch movement (play) of the clutch lever before it pulls the cable. You will feel the pull getting harder when it's making contact with the clutch release.
These adjustments should give you about a 2" travel before full release / engagement of the clutch.
Things that can go wrong ... a stretched or damaged cable. And not setting the pushrod exactly right ... that is if everything else in in good working order prior to the cable adjust issue.
I hope all this help gets you back on the road!!!
It has always been my understanding that the first thing you do is let out some cable "slack" by loosening the clutch cable. It must be just loose, not totally unscrewed from at the adjusting point.
You then loosen the clutch locking nut and adjust the pushrod to make contact with the clutch release and back it off a proper amount of turning outward. Manual say only a 1/2 turn, moving away from contacting the clutch release... not tightening it in, but back it off! Then set the locking nut.
Next is taking the slack out of the cable to the point of only having about 1/8 of an inch movement (play) of the clutch lever before it pulls the cable. You will feel the pull getting harder when it's making contact with the clutch release.
These adjustments should give you about a 2" travel before full release / engagement of the clutch.
Things that can go wrong ... a stretched or damaged cable. And not setting the pushrod exactly right ... that is if everything else in in good working order prior to the cable adjust issue.
I hope all this help gets you back on the road!!!
Last edited by JohnnyC; May 3, 2011 at 11:05 AM.