Fatcat 2:1 install
Pulling it off is the easy part.
A universal joint adapter for your socket wrench helps with the exhaust flange nuts and a rubber mallet will assist in getting the mufflers off, if you decide to take them off separately. Other than that 9/16th and 1/2 wrenches and sockets.
It's a very doable one person, one afternoon, 3-4 beer job.
Last edited by TheTroupe; May 17, 2011 at 01:35 PM.
JIMS Exhaust Gasket tool is great for getting your new gaskets in properly, but if you don't have one just take you time pressing them in place.
have fun.
to add.. Drew, aka Dr V-Twin gave me some good advice... 1/4 inch ratchet and extension for the exhaust flange nuts... that was a time saver.. also, if you want to remove the flange clips without pulling your hair out get a piston ring installer or similar.. makes it MUCH easier.. get some anti-seize for the exhaust studs before you put the nuts back on... oh.. I re-used my stock exhaust gaskets and they leaked.. I replaced them this weekend with solid copper gaskets... removing the stock mesh gaskets was a pain but not too bad.. get a really small flathead screwdriver and work around the perimeter until it's loose then start at the bottom, go all the way to back of the port surface and bend the gasket inward towards the center of the port.. then you can grab with your finger and pull out if it doesn't fall out... on the new copper gaskets you need to smear some anti-seize or high temp grease on them so they will stick in the port while you install the head pipes or they will fall right out.. no need for a tool to install them, they slide right in..
Biggest PIA is the gaskets IMO, everything else was cake. Definitely helps to have 1/4 drive extension with deep socket for rear bolt install.
I got the front gasket in no problem, easy to do with 2 hands...rear one I could only get one hand in..barely. Eventually used the back of a spray can cover htat was the exact diameter of the gasket to push it in evenly, once it was started the exhaust install was nothing. I just rolled on the flange rings, was easy, no tool required.
I got the front gasket in no problem, easy to do with 2 hands...rear one I could only get one hand in..barely. Eventually used the back of a spray can cover htat was the exact diameter of the gasket to push it in evenly, once it was started the exhaust install was nothing. I just rolled on the flange rings, was easy, no tool required.
Range take the rear heart shield off. Much easier to access thw the rear header bolts. No scratches that way...
Trending Topics
You'll need an inch pound torque wrench for the muffler collector clamp and exhaust flange nuts. Took about 2 hours once the old muffler was off and the rear heat shield removed. In addition to the other size wrenches mentioned, you'll need a 5/16 inch wrench or nut driver for the heat sheild clamps, and I don't remember the size of the allen wrench for the smaller collector clamp (mine had two muffler clamps).
I used the Screamin Eagle exhaust gaskets. No problem with them sealing when the pipe is torqued right.
D&D's come with the flanges welded on. gasket tool installer? I have never used one and am going to look it up next. I think taking the old off is more work than putting the new one on. Getting an extension for your ratchet with a wobbly ball on the end really helps in tight spaces. For the rear cylinder pipe the easiest way to get the top bolt on is to remove the heat shield. 3 screws. The rest are accessible. I always use s/e flat exhaust gaskets for D&D's as that is what they recommend. But the James work well too. I just noticed someone already said to take off teh rear heat shield. LOL. Beat me to it. I'll take my chances with the gaskets for $36 but it looks like it does the job well.
I use a 6" extension. 1/2" socket, 1/2" wrench, 9/16" etc.
I use a 6" extension. 1/2" socket, 1/2" wrench, 9/16" etc.


