I'm preparing to adjust the rear shocks on my 2004 Night Train for the first time, and wanted to hear any advice some of you might want to offer that will make it an easier operation to perform. One specific question I have is the direction that you turn the adjustment plate to increase spring pre-load. I have the shock adjustment tool, and noted in the owner's manual that you are suppose to back out, in the direction of the loosened locknut, the adjustment plate to increase shock pre-load in order to carry more weight on the bike. This sounds counter-intuitive to me as I'd think you'd turn the adjustment plate in, or away from the locknut, in order to compress the internal springs. I'm assuming I'm missing something here as to the internal structure of the shocks? Thanks.

 

Wow. That was more complicated than when I adjusted my shocks. Loosen nut, turn shock. If you have more threads showing you're tightening and making the shock firmer. If you have less threads it's getting softer.

 

Actually, if you believe the owner's manual, more exposed threads would mean a softer ride (less pre-load), fewer threads exposed, a heavier pre-load, which is why I ask the question - thanks for your input.

 

i have the fatboy i tryed to adjustet the shocks i went to far turning the bolt fell out the bike rear end was sagging. the dealer came picked it up put it back . they put my fatboy weight for 2 about 250 pounds alot better now. know more bottom out.

 

When the Softails come from the factory they are set at the softest setting. At this setting you can see 3 to 4 threads at the forward end, by the retention nut. The shock will be at its shortest setting . When you firm up the shocks they will get longer, just the opposite of what you think is normal.
The hardest part, the first time in setting your shocks, is usually breaking the retention nuts loose, at the forward end, and backing them off. It may require a heat gun or hair dryer to loosen the loctite on the nuts. Do not use loctite again on the nuts.
It's a good idea to paint a white stripe on the bottom of each shock before you start turning them. This way you will be able to count how many turns as you adjust them, so each shock is adjusted the same amount.
From the fully soft to the fully firm setting is approx. 3 1/2 complete turns. The first time you adjust go to the fully firm setting. Always back the shocks off just a bit when you go completely one way or the other. This way they wont be jammed into place and will break loose easily, for your next adjustment. Do not over-tighten the retention nuts when you are done or they will be hard to break loose next time also.
If the fully firm setting isn't right, you can tweak the shocks until you like that setting.
I bought a $5 spanner from the dealer and cut the handle down on my open end wrench.
My SE Fat Boy comes lowered in the rear, but I still have room to adjust the shocks while the bike is on the jiffy stand.
Tom

 

Thanks for your input - very helpful.

 

Copied from this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...djustment.html

Courtesy of KumaRide

Tools:
- Shock spanner wrench
- 1 1/16 open end wrench
- White paint pen

Parts:
- Adjustable shock (Stock, Long or with Lowering Kit).

Instructions:
1. Determine whether your suspension is too stiff or too soft for your liking. Take into consideration whether or not you will be riding solo or 2-up most of the time.

2. With a white paint pen, put a mark on the face of your adjuster plate at the 6 o’clock position. This will be your starting position. Do this to both shocks

3. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, break the adjuster nut free from the adjuster plate by turning the nut counterclockwise

If you are adjusting for a heavier weight (stiffer ride):
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
C. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
D. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.

If you are adjusting for a lighter weight (softer ride) :
A. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
B. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
C. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.

Note: - When you turn the adjuster nut - only the adjuster nut should turn.
- When you turn the front nut - only the front nut should turn.
- When you turn the adjuster plate - the canister might turn too. Some people find it easier to turn the adjuster plate and the canister at the same time.
- If the canister turns or not - it doesn't matter - the canister does not affect the outcome.

There are a limited number of threads. Count the number of threads visible

Use the "rule of thumb" chart below:

- 4 threads = Preloaded for a softest spring (<180 lbs)
- 3 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (181-237 lbs)
- 2 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (238-293 lbs)
- 1 threads = Preloaded for a stiffer spring (294-349 lbs)
- 0 threads = Preloaded for a stiffest spring (>350 lbs)

 

It's about the best tutorial I've read. The manual tends to leave much to be desired.

 

Thanks for that RedBen.

I love this Forum.

Just an FYI, the Progressive 422's have 5.25 to 5.5 turns of adjustment and at 260 lbs solo 2.25 to 2.5 turns works for me.

 

wow.....agreed....GREAT write up..