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Definetely no need to remove the tank...
The clutch cable was the part I was most worried about but it ended up being the easiest in my opinion... just analyze everything before taking it off and remember where everything goes, and you shouldnt have a problem. FIrst time I did the install, and doing that took me 5 minutes...
Very Important: Don't forget to put the cardboard shim under the brake lever before you remove the switch housing!!!!!!!!!
would someone PLEASE explain that part to me.... where exactly does the cardboard go?? is the point to keep the lever out? (away from the grip-normal position) i'm not understanding the purpose here.. I know it's to keep some plunger (light switch I guess) from breaking, but I don't understand why, how, etc...
So I was chomping at the bit waiting for my RSD apes and risers to be shipped.. Now they should be here Friday.. So last night I read all the threads about installs... yeah, I'm dreading it.. I knew it was involved, but damn...
Anyone got words of encouragement!!??
Deep Breaths my friend. Easy install 3-4 hrs and a sixer or two.
would someone PLEASE explain that part to me.... where exactly does the cardboard go?? is the point to keep the lever out? (away from the grip-normal position) i'm not understanding the purpose here.. I know it's to keep some plunger (light switch I guess) from breaking, but I don't understand why, how, etc...
When you see it, it will make more sense.
Basically the tab on the lever that hits the switch to activate the brake will be in contact with it and can break it. You want to basically pull the lever in so the tab is at the end of the switch instead of in front of it if that makes sense.
I didn't use a cardboard piece, I just grab the lever and squeeze it as I put it on and off or a washer will work.
The card board or washer goes between the lever and the master cylinder where it rotates just to make the lever go in a bit if that makes sense.
Basically the tab on the lever that hits the switch to activate the brake will be in contact with it and can break it. You want to basically pull the lever in so the tab is at the end of the switch instead of in front of it if that makes sense.
I didn't use a cardboard piece, I just grab the lever and squeeze it as I put it on and off or a washer will work.
The card board or washer goes between the lever and the master cylinder where it rotates just to make the lever go in a bit if that makes sense.
I don't get it either. I've had mine on/off half-dozen times and never had a problem.
Installing the bars seems more intimidating going into it than it will after you're done. I've found that is true with a lot of work I've done on my bike. But I figure that no matter how bad I could screw it up, there's always someone who can fix it, though I haven't had that happen yet, and I've learned a lot and saved money.
thanks guys... makes me feel better. it just seems like every time I work on it I end up with some problem.. either not sure how to remove something or not having the right tool...
I ordered the NAMZ extensions also.. 15".. actually talked to someone there and they said to get the 15" extensions.. so at least those will save some time...
thanks guys... makes me feel better. it just seems like every time I work on it I end up with some problem.. either not sure how to remove something or not having the right tool...
I ordered the NAMZ extensions also.. 15".. actually talked to someone there and they said to get the 15" extensions.. so at least those will save some time...
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