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Before you buy another ignition switch...

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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 01:37 AM
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Exclamation Before you buy another ignition switch...

The service manual says the switch is not serviceable. That is bs. I've been having issues with my switch lately. It got to where my speedometer would cut out from time to time and I had to wiggle the switch to get it back on. I also noticed that when I turn the ignition on, my fuel pump would prime the fuel system, but it sounded like it stopped and started 2 or 3 times. I knew the switch was the problem, but before I spent the cash on one from hd, I decided to take a look at it. I took the switch out of the console and noticed there was a snap ring holding it together. I removed the snap ring and the plastic ring underneath it. There are 3 u shaped metal pieces and springs under that ring that slide on a piece of copper. That strip was very dirty. I hit it with some contact cleaner and a little sand paper to clean it up. A little dialectric grease later, I put it back together. The switch is perfect again. My fuel pump doesn't start and stop anymore, and I have no issues with the switch not making contact in any position. This may not be anything new to some, but I thought maybe this would save someone in a similar situation $100 or so. Start to finish was less than 20 minutes and cost nothing.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 04:49 AM
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I've always said, If they can put it together, I can take it apart.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 04:59 AM
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Great post. Thanks. I've seen quite a few issues with those switches on this forum and that's good info.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 07:14 AM
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Good one....I always take apart things they say are not to be serviced..may as well if it's going in the trash.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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For liability's sake, I'm sure, it's not serviceable. You're turning left in front of a big truck and your ignition switch cuts out... oops. In the 'factory' it is easier to improve the odds of success by enforcing quality control. Now if HD could only explain that in Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean...
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 08:14 AM
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Good post. Makes sense. I've never taken them apart ... but I will do that now before I buy a new one. Thank you for sharing your experience.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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great info! you should do it again, record it with steps on doing it, and post it on here or youtube. Very helpful info! Good work out of you.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Gman in NC
Great post. Thanks. I've seen quite a few issues with those switches on this forum and that's good info.
.....very good information!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:48 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by mplecha
The service manual says the switch is not serviceable. That is bs. I've been having issues with my switch lately. It got to where my speedometer would cut out from time to time and I had to wiggle the switch to get it back on. I also noticed that when I turn the ignition on, my fuel pump would prime the fuel system, but it sounded like it stopped and started 2 or 3 times. I knew the switch was the problem, but before I spent the cash on one from hd, I decided to take a look at it. I took the switch out of the console and noticed there was a snap ring holding it together. I removed the snap ring and the plastic ring underneath it. There are 3 u shaped metal pieces and springs under that ring that slide on a piece of copper. That strip was very dirty. I hit it with some contact cleaner and a little sand paper to clean it up. A little dialectric grease later, I put it back together. The switch is perfect again. My fuel pump doesn't start and stop anymore, and I have no issues with the switch not making contact in any position. This may not be anything new to some, but I thought maybe this would save someone in a similar situation $100 or so. Start to finish was less than 20 minutes and cost nothing.


I did just what u did last year your spot on easy fix
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:28 AM
  #10  
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Also did the same repair two weekends ago. Ignition would be dead until I slightly tapped on top of the switch. - weird.

Good post mplecha. One thing I did which may help in conductivity is the use of a Dremel tool with their fine-wire wheel bit. At a slow speed setting you can actually polish the brass contacts and clean up those 'U'-shaped contacts.
 
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