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I installed my Fat Cat in 2008 and I didn't keep the separate piece of paper that stated how much to torque the silencer to the header pipes. Normally I wouldn't have used a torque wrench when installing an exhaust but D&D made a big thing about that one bolt, so I figured maybe I should. I found most of the paper work, The tech line number for D&D is 817-834-0996.
I first assembled the muffler to the header pipes on my LR floor to see how it looked. There was a 1/4" or more gap that showed the weld at the end of the header pipes. I loosened all the clamps and used a rubber mallet to tap the heat shield as far aft as possible, then re-tightened the clamps. This covered the weld area. I wouldn't have been able to do this adjustment after the exhaust was installed.
If you don't have any of the instructions, it stated to hang everything loose then tighten, starting at the rear/muffler and work forward. Where you have dual clamps at the silencer position one at the 6:00 and the other at 12:00 position so you are applying pressure at different locations around the pipe for a better seal.
Tom
I know this is an older post but figure it will be here for others who use the search feature
I had a D&D Fat cat put on my 2012 bagger and I needed to retighten the bolts due to some exhaust leaks starting.
Per D&D themselves. Flange bolts are to stock HD specs 12nm and Muffler to header is 150 inch pounds
I also know this is an old post. Installed mine Saturday and torqued until I was worried next 1/4 turn would snap the bolt. Ride HARD for the weekend, found the muffler slid 3/4 inch back. Got home, cooler her off, loosened the bolts, dead blow back in, and torqued the snot out of them. Next step is duct tape! 😁😂😁
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