Here is what coems with the Grip ace along with a huge pile of instructions. The grip ace allows you to get rid of af your stock ahnd controls and switch housings.

The one thing I had not though about is the front brake switch for the brake light. Not sure how I am going to attack that issue yet. Some suggestions would be great as i would prefer the front brake lever to activate the brake light still but it is wired in the switch housing which is going bye bye.

The grip ace will get put on the Exile grips I got which are premachined to accept the grip ace. I will drill a hole in the bars to run the grip ace cable internally (which is only 2 wires sheathed inside a cover with a very small plug on the end.)

The wires from the Grip Ace will plug into the grip ace module which I will locate under my front fork tins. The wiring harness for the grip ace has to be spliced into the hand control wiring. I was planning soldering it all together but it comes with quick splices so maybe that is the way to go. I am not sure yet.

All of my functionality from my hand controls will remain with the exception of the run/stop switch. When I turn the bike on it will automatically be in the run position now so I will sue my ignition switch to turn the bike on and off.

I'm going to call grip ace once they open and ask about the brake light issue. I was considering doing a linked brake thing with the foot pedal until I thought about the fact that I have a foot clutch and that could be a real PITA on hills.



Drew

 

I hadn't thought too much about the brake switch. I will be installing a Joker Machine brake lever and master cylinder setup, and I noticed they have a brake switch unit sold separately on their website. Not much description on it, but I'm assuming I need to purchase it with the controls. It looks from the pic to be a remotely located unit, but again, no description so I'm not sure. Maybe that unit would also work with the stock controls?

 

what happened to the post with the pics from Exile? Was it censored?

 

All my posts seem to disappear lately. Not sure why. I wish I would be told why at the very least...A lot of wasted time and all I am trying to do is show people how things are done.

Can I get an answer from a mod please? What have I done?

Drew

 

It's a big conspiracy. I bet the mods own stock in the company that manufactures those big ugly stock switch housings! lol

 

Don't bother with the quick splices. Solder and shrink wrap doesn't take long and then you don't have to worry about it. Crimp connectors and quick splices will eventually fail from vibration. When I rewired all my crap, I used crimp connectors on a couple things and have had a couple fail recently.

 

Used those quick splices when I did my LED strip signals. They are super convenient.....if you don't mind redoing the connections every six months! Going to redo all my half *** wiring this winter while I've got it all taken apart.

 

Looked around the site more, and it appears the brake switch mounts on the underside of the master cylinder. Guess that doesn't help ya much.

 

Yeah, I'll have to figure this out when I take it all apart. I think i will need to find a way to have a complete circuit from the front to the rear as my eliminator needs a full circuit to operate properly. I hope I didn't open a can of worms,but time will tell.

Drew

 

How 'bout a hydraulic pressure switch mounted under the lower triple tree? You could plumb it into the front brake line there and it would be out of the way and hidden.