Softail starter advice needed
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 69
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From: New Hampshire/Mass
pops2ride- still confused on what that button actually does... push the gear out? but u still need 2 spin it so youd still be screwed?? and i agree about pulling the starter being a major hassle....
which brings me to my next point.... i just ordered the all ***** 1.4kW starter through bkRider for 220 free ship, lifetime warranty. well worth it in my opinion even though im broke. i got black since you cant see the starter when the bike is 2gether, and if it were chrome you couldnt reach it to clean it. and chrome was 100 more. the starter didnt have that manual solenoid button, but i felt comfortable with the all ***** brand and warranty. plus my bike can be bump started pretty easily with a friend and a slight slope.
the one last thing is that the guy at all ***** (very helpful btw, even after knowing i was going thru bk, which he even recommended) still wasnt 100% convinced it was my starter but after answering a few ?s he said to go with a new starter. any1 have any opinions on that? he had me check the solenoid terminals which we good. the starter couldnt turn my motor over and acted like a dead battery even though i tested it with other batteries. i guess ill find out when i get the new one in anyways. oh ya, it was drawing 1000 amps....
which brings me to my next point.... i just ordered the all ***** 1.4kW starter through bkRider for 220 free ship, lifetime warranty. well worth it in my opinion even though im broke. i got black since you cant see the starter when the bike is 2gether, and if it were chrome you couldnt reach it to clean it. and chrome was 100 more. the starter didnt have that manual solenoid button, but i felt comfortable with the all ***** brand and warranty. plus my bike can be bump started pretty easily with a friend and a slight slope.
the one last thing is that the guy at all ***** (very helpful btw, even after knowing i was going thru bk, which he even recommended) still wasnt 100% convinced it was my starter but after answering a few ?s he said to go with a new starter. any1 have any opinions on that? he had me check the solenoid terminals which we good. the starter couldnt turn my motor over and acted like a dead battery even though i tested it with other batteries. i guess ill find out when i get the new one in anyways. oh ya, it was drawing 1000 amps....
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
Oh. Ok. It talks about removing the starter... I looked it up for a buddy that did his on a 2002. It was pretty thorough... he just screwed up on the oil line duck bill connectors but he did remove the oil tank. He wanted to try to do his without doing that... and he didn't have a shop manual.
Solenoid rebuild should just be new contactors. Starter rebuild should be bushings and brushes. They shouldn't cost too much... other than the fact that they are for a Harley. I presume your gears are all ok.
I will look in my parts book and see if there's anything important that I left out, but I don't think mine gives kit numbers... just the individual parts number.
C#
Solenoid rebuild should just be new contactors. Starter rebuild should be bushings and brushes. They shouldn't cost too much... other than the fact that they are for a Harley. I presume your gears are all ok.
I will look in my parts book and see if there's anything important that I left out, but I don't think mine gives kit numbers... just the individual parts number.
C#
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
EEeeuuuuuuwwwww.... with an induction ammeter over the main starter wire you should get about 300 - 350 max I think. (But I don't know about bikes that need compression releases, etc.). That sounds like an armature or at least a dead short over the whatchamacallit that the brushes ride on.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
by the way cwsharp.... i do have the shop manual. if i were to rebuild, what type of kit would i need. i found this solenoid rebuild kit on ebay for $20 http://www.ebay.com/itm/250920117280...#ht_534wt_1163
but im assuming i need a starter rebuild kit as well.... i found this, but it doesnt show a pic of the parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-18199-...ht_1335wt_1163
but im assuming i need a starter rebuild kit as well.... i found this, but it doesnt show a pic of the parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-18199-...ht_1335wt_1163
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: New Hampshire/Mass
Both of those picture the solenoid rebuild kit. My parts book doesn't list a starter rebuild kit and the brushes are shown as part of the housing (evidently not removable but I bet an autoelectric shop could make it all better...) but I guess getting the new one is the best idea.
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EEeeuuuuuuwwwww.... with an induction ammeter over the main starter wire you should get about 300 - 350 max I think. (But I don't know about bikes that need compression releases, etc.). That sounds like an armature or at least a dead short over the whatchamacallit that the brushes ride on.
C#
C#
Oh. Ok. It talks about removing the starter... I looked it up for a buddy that did his on a 2002. It was pretty thorough... he just screwed up on the oil line duck bill connectors but he did remove the oil tank. He wanted to try to do his without doing that... and he didn't have a shop manual.
Solenoid rebuild should just be new contactors. Starter rebuild should be bushings and brushes. They shouldn't cost too much... other than the fact that they are for a Harley. I presume your gears are all ok.
I will look in my parts book and see if there's anything important that I left out, but I don't think mine gives kit numbers... just the individual parts number.
C#
Solenoid rebuild should just be new contactors. Starter rebuild should be bushings and brushes. They shouldn't cost too much... other than the fact that they are for a Harley. I presume your gears are all ok.
I will look in my parts book and see if there's anything important that I left out, but I don't think mine gives kit numbers... just the individual parts number.
C#
so last night i pulled the used starter apart..... heres some pics. nothing was visably wrong, and the solenoid contacts were good (pics are after i cleaned them) but they were not very dirty at all, just a layer of dust.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
Growl test that armature. I would say that the contact breaks for the brushes are looking a little worn, which a hacksaw blade would clean up. It also looks (from the picture) that the brush on the right may not be making full connection as it appears to be worn 'off line' (the curvature is ok.. it's the vertical that I'm talking about... one edge is worn more and slightly crooked but there's no tellin' from here, really). I also think that the solenoid contact on the top looks worn but a rebuild kit would fix that.
As far as the amps that are being pulled, that would indicate at a minimum, if it's not due to battery connections, etc. that you have a contact or armature problem in the starter. It is 'working' too hard.
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As far as the amps that are being pulled, that would indicate at a minimum, if it's not due to battery connections, etc. that you have a contact or armature problem in the starter. It is 'working' too hard.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Softail starter advice needed
pops2ride- still confused on what that button actually does... push the gear out? but u still need 2 spin it so youd still be screwed?? and i agree about pulling the starter being a major hassle....
which brings me to my next point.... i just ordered the all ***** 1.4kW starter through bkRider for 220 free ship, lifetime warranty. well worth it in my opinion even though im broke. i got black since you cant see the starter when the bike is 2gether, and if it were chrome you couldnt reach it to clean it. and chrome was 100 more. the starter didnt have that manual solenoid button, but i felt comfortable with the all ***** brand and warranty. plus my bike can be bump started pretty easily with a friend and a slight slope.
the one last thing is that the guy at all ***** (very helpful btw, even after knowing i was going thru bk, which he even recommended) still wasnt 100% convinced it was my starter but after answering a few ?s he said to go with a new starter. any1 have any opinions on that? he had me check the solenoid terminals which we good. the starter couldnt turn my motor over and acted like a dead battery even though i tested it with other batteries. i guess ill find out when i get the new one in anyways. oh ya, it was drawing 1000 amps....
which brings me to my next point.... i just ordered the all ***** 1.4kW starter through bkRider for 220 free ship, lifetime warranty. well worth it in my opinion even though im broke. i got black since you cant see the starter when the bike is 2gether, and if it were chrome you couldnt reach it to clean it. and chrome was 100 more. the starter didnt have that manual solenoid button, but i felt comfortable with the all ***** brand and warranty. plus my bike can be bump started pretty easily with a friend and a slight slope.
the one last thing is that the guy at all ***** (very helpful btw, even after knowing i was going thru bk, which he even recommended) still wasnt 100% convinced it was my starter but after answering a few ?s he said to go with a new starter. any1 have any opinions on that? he had me check the solenoid terminals which we good. the starter couldnt turn my motor over and acted like a dead battery even though i tested it with other batteries. i guess ill find out when i get the new one in anyways. oh ya, it was drawing 1000 amps....
button which enables you to push the solenoid cylinder in manually
to engage the the starter. I had one on my '95 heritage which was a
lifesaver because I had starting issues due to the previous owners
haywiring he had done.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 69
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From: New Hampshire/Mass
update
hey guys, i have a sad announcement to make......
i got the new starter in, and put the oil tank on, not bolted tight yet, just so i could get the battery in.
i didnt put primary or engine oil in yet, crazy i know, but im not running it. i tapped the starter just to see how it did, and it did pretty much the same thing as before........
im not mad i spent the money, because i rule out the starter, i got it cheap, and have a new one with a lifetime warranty....
i did see however that the negative wire from battery to frame got really hot on the frame side. i scratched some paint off the frame, put it back nice and tight and it still did the same thing. i put a jumper from battery to a bolt coming off the side of the crank case and still same thing happend.
any ideas?
i got the new starter in, and put the oil tank on, not bolted tight yet, just so i could get the battery in.
i didnt put primary or engine oil in yet, crazy i know, but im not running it. i tapped the starter just to see how it did, and it did pretty much the same thing as before........
im not mad i spent the money, because i rule out the starter, i got it cheap, and have a new one with a lifetime warranty....
i did see however that the negative wire from battery to frame got really hot on the frame side. i scratched some paint off the frame, put it back nice and tight and it still did the same thing. i put a jumper from battery to a bolt coming off the side of the crank case and still same thing happend.
any ideas?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
hey guys, i have a sad announcement to make......
i got the new starter in, and put the oil tank on, not bolted tight yet, just so i could get the battery in.
i didnt put primary or engine oil in yet, crazy i know, but im not running it. i tapped the starter just to see how it did, and it did pretty much the same thing as before........
im not mad i spent the money, because i rule out the starter, i got it cheap, and have a new one with a lifetime warranty....
i did see however that the negative wire from battery to frame got really hot on the frame side. i scratched some paint off the frame, put it back nice and tight and it still did the same thing. i put a jumper from battery to a bolt coming off the side of the crank case and still same thing happend.
any ideas?
i got the new starter in, and put the oil tank on, not bolted tight yet, just so i could get the battery in.
i didnt put primary or engine oil in yet, crazy i know, but im not running it. i tapped the starter just to see how it did, and it did pretty much the same thing as before........
im not mad i spent the money, because i rule out the starter, i got it cheap, and have a new one with a lifetime warranty....
i did see however that the negative wire from battery to frame got really hot on the frame side. i scratched some paint off the frame, put it back nice and tight and it still did the same thing. i put a jumper from battery to a bolt coming off the side of the crank case and still same thing happend.
any ideas?
C#