so then what basic tools do i need
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Just got this one right before Christmas. takes the shorting out by using a reg wrench out of the way because its cover with vinyl material.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10mm-si...nch-97260.html
.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Got the son this set several Yrs ago
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8&blockType=G8
Got these at Sears also.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...6345000P?mv=rr
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1
As said above most all of these were 1/2 right before Christmas..
But if U'r patient they have sales all the time..
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8&blockType=G8
Got these at Sears also.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...6345000P?mv=rr
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1
As said above most all of these were 1/2 right before Christmas..
But if U'r patient they have sales all the time..
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
Two things I don't see mentioned that are damn handy for changing footrests.
A pair of circlip pliers (get the one with interchangeable nibs) and an extended torx socket (I forgot the size - 40 maybe? - found mine at Autozone). Not sure if it was something to do with my V&H exhaust but the torx bolt is buried in an extension and isn't possible to get to without the longer torx socket.
The circlip pliers will come in handy if changing cams and other engine work.
Also if you plan on changing exhaust in the future O2 sensor sized wrench or socket is required (I believe different sizes based on year of the bike).
Start with the 3/8" torque wrench if you're on a budget, very few bolts use 1/4" drive socket (the cam shoe tensioners are the only thing that comes to mind - at least with the set of torx sockets I have - and in that case I use a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter).
A pair of circlip pliers (get the one with interchangeable nibs) and an extended torx socket (I forgot the size - 40 maybe? - found mine at Autozone). Not sure if it was something to do with my V&H exhaust but the torx bolt is buried in an extension and isn't possible to get to without the longer torx socket.
The circlip pliers will come in handy if changing cams and other engine work.
Also if you plan on changing exhaust in the future O2 sensor sized wrench or socket is required (I believe different sizes based on year of the bike).
Start with the 3/8" torque wrench if you're on a budget, very few bolts use 1/4" drive socket (the cam shoe tensioners are the only thing that comes to mind - at least with the set of torx sockets I have - and in that case I use a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter).
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,855
Likes: 3
From: North Carolina
This is what you need!
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
One tool I just found I needed doing suspension work is a 3/8-Inch Drive Torque Adapter 3/4-Inch. You can use a box end wrench and hammer to get the shock shoulder bolt off (just like I did) but I was worried about tightening it to the specified torque when I reinstall. The service manual calls for the special tool from Snap-On ESSE24 which is freaking $53 (maybe it'll come in that set Santas going to bring...lol), but after searching all day I finally found a cheapo made by Stanley on Amazon for $18. No need to spend big money for a tool that may only get used once or twice.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 507
Likes: 4
From: Wentzville, Missouri
Two things I don't see mentioned that are damn handy for changing footrests.
A pair of circlip pliers (get the one with interchangeable nibs) and an extended torx socket (I forgot the size - 40 maybe? - found mine at Autozone). Not sure if it was something to do with my V&H exhaust but the torx bolt is buried in an extension and isn't possible to get to without the longer torx socket.
The circlip pliers will come in handy if changing cams and other engine work.
Also if you plan on changing exhaust in the future O2 sensor sized wrench or socket is required (I believe different sizes based on year of the bike).
Start with the 3/8" torque wrench if you're on a budget, very few bolts use 1/4" drive socket (the cam shoe tensioners are the only thing that comes to mind - at least with the set of torx sockets I have - and in that case I use a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter).
A pair of circlip pliers (get the one with interchangeable nibs) and an extended torx socket (I forgot the size - 40 maybe? - found mine at Autozone). Not sure if it was something to do with my V&H exhaust but the torx bolt is buried in an extension and isn't possible to get to without the longer torx socket.
The circlip pliers will come in handy if changing cams and other engine work.
Also if you plan on changing exhaust in the future O2 sensor sized wrench or socket is required (I believe different sizes based on year of the bike).
Start with the 3/8" torque wrench if you're on a budget, very few bolts use 1/4" drive socket (the cam shoe tensioners are the only thing that comes to mind - at least with the set of torx sockets I have - and in that case I use a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter).
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,766
Likes: 16
From: Roseville, CA
I would also consider an electric screwdriver or drill with conversion bits for sockets for those long bolts you'll encounter. Never start it with the drill, but it's also great for extraction.
Amen to that one!!
If the sensor is disconnected from the ECU, a good sized open end wrench will be fine.
If the sensor is disconnected from the ECU, a good sized open end wrench will be fine.
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
Damn, I'm going to have wait an entire year to ask Santa for that!!
One tool I just found I needed doing suspension work is a 3/8-Inch Drive Torque Adapter 3/4-Inch. You can use a box end wrench and hammer to get the shock shoulder bolt off (just like I did) but I was worried about tightening it to the specified torque when I reinstall. The service manual calls for the special tool from Snap-On ESSE24 which is freaking $53 (maybe it'll come in that set Santas going to bring...lol), but after searching all day I finally found a cheapo made by Stanley on Amazon for $18. No need to spend big money for a tool that may only get used once or twice.
One tool I just found I needed doing suspension work is a 3/8-Inch Drive Torque Adapter 3/4-Inch. You can use a box end wrench and hammer to get the shock shoulder bolt off (just like I did) but I was worried about tightening it to the specified torque when I reinstall. The service manual calls for the special tool from Snap-On ESSE24 which is freaking $53 (maybe it'll come in that set Santas going to bring...lol), but after searching all day I finally found a cheapo made by Stanley on Amazon for $18. No need to spend big money for a tool that may only get used once or twice.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,054
Likes: 26
From: Florida
A good set of Torx bits/sockets as most people have stated. T25/T27/T35/T40 are the most common sizes I use. Some decent drivers. Most everything is standard and not metric except your rear axle which is a 36mm I think. Some good hand wrenches and sockets. Most common sizes are 3/8, 1/2, 9/16. Other size come up from time to time so just get sets that include these. If you don't trust your sense of touch when torquing things down then I highly recommend a couple of torque wrenches. An inch pound and a foot pound just to be safe. One of the most invaluable hand tools I have bought and used on my bike are ratcheting wrenches. Having the ability to ratchet out a nut or bolt that is in a space where a socket and ratchet wouldn't fit has saved me many a headache. I have the Craftsman which can be pricey ($120 for a set of 7) but there are other makers such as Gearwrench that make a similar set for less.
I tend to stick with Craftsman tools as much as possible although I am not devoted to them 100%. If I need a simple screw driver or something along those lines I don't necessarily have to have Craftsman. I actually own a good number of tools that are Stanley such as needle nose pliers or electrical pliers and I get them from Wal Mart. Sign up for the Craftsman Club which lets you know of all their sales on tools and gets you special pricing. It is totally free and worth the short time it takes. If I do get Craftsman I keep an eye out for specials to help keep the costs down. I also bought my lift from Sears/Craftsman. It is the more expensive yellow one they carry. Again, I waited on a sale and even though it was still a bit more than many others I could find, I am totally happy with it. Is is really sturdy and it is super low so you almost never have to worry about having the clearance to get it under you bike.
I tend to stick with Craftsman tools as much as possible although I am not devoted to them 100%. If I need a simple screw driver or something along those lines I don't necessarily have to have Craftsman. I actually own a good number of tools that are Stanley such as needle nose pliers or electrical pliers and I get them from Wal Mart. Sign up for the Craftsman Club which lets you know of all their sales on tools and gets you special pricing. It is totally free and worth the short time it takes. If I do get Craftsman I keep an eye out for specials to help keep the costs down. I also bought my lift from Sears/Craftsman. It is the more expensive yellow one they carry. Again, I waited on a sale and even though it was still a bit more than many others I could find, I am totally happy with it. Is is really sturdy and it is super low so you almost never have to worry about having the clearance to get it under you bike.