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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:04 AM
  #11  
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Default Big Bore Performance!!!!

The 103" Big Bore kit is a great kit!!!! and the SE-255 cams are a great cam if low end torque is what your looking for!!! , but they will cut out in the higher RPM's. I feel they are more ment for a touring bike, but if you stay low and shift in those rmp ranges it works. The break-in period is very important to do with "DYNO" oil, so the rings seat properly. The synthetic oils are just to slippery!!!!! A Dyno tune is also very important to make the bike run properly. A good tune is everything to me!!!.....These kit from the factory don't have the proper squish and some milling of the heads is needed. Also use the 10.5:1 forged pistons to bump up the copmpession and make those cams work for you. Cams like compression and when the comp. is higher they really bite!!!!............Good luck with yours and go get it Dyno tuned by a pro!!!!.......The diff. will be night and day!!!!!!...........Just my 2 cents!!!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:11 AM
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Thank the EPA for making it so hard to tune a bike right!!!!!.......So much preasure is put on the maufacture's and dealer's to keep these motors running like dogs!!!! I say "F" that and get that bike running crisp!!!!!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #13  
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Thumbs up Mcr's

Also should get Manual Compression Releases!!!!......and use them!!!.....it will save your starter and compensator. They bare a great addition to a high comp. motor and for the price you can't go wrong!!!!!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 10:04 AM
  #14  
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Update:

So I emailed the guy they wanted me to contact at the dealership and the reply I got back was basically a 103" upgrade which would get me 72hp and 94tq to the wheel. Total cost with dyno tune is $1750. Adding cams would raise the price another $950.

Any opinions on this? I would like to go in and talk to them and see what they say this will do for low end power. My issue overall is that their advertised big bore upgrade is $999 including labor I believe but just for a break in and dyno tune its now $1750 total? It just seems like a lot of cash just to bore out the stock jugs and tune the bike. I may wait and see what my buddys dad has to offer or just buy a 107" kit and get it tuned but any suggestions or opinions are welcome.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #15  
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that seems pretty expensive, my SE Stg II 103 kit w 255 cams, SE pipes, no tuner, and MoCo flash was right at 2 grand out the door. I am happy with the way it runs but I felt like I needed a shower when I got it home.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #16  
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A big bore and cam upgrade are pretty straight forward DIY projects. If your friend's Dad is capable, ask him to help you turn the wrenches and DIY the project; you will save a fair amount of cash. You can do a 107" kit, or have your cylindes bored to 103" or 107" and fitted to a new set of pistons; a piece of cake. Cam upgrade is straight forward as well. Total cost for parts and machine work should not exceed $1000; excluding the final tune. You will learn a lot in the process.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #17  
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I'm new to these Big Bore kits. What sizes are bored out cylinders and what sizes are new cylinders on a 96ci and do the bored out run hotter and are they just as reliable?? Thanks much in advance for the education.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Fierofly
I'm new to these Big Bore kits. What sizes are bored out cylinders and what sizes are new cylinders on a 96ci and do the bored out run hotter and are they just as reliable?? Thanks much in advance for the education.
88" and 96" stock bore is 3.750"; 95" and 103" bore is 3.875"; the additional cubic inches comes from the stroke increase from 4" to 4.375".

No issues with boring from 3.750' to 3.875"; tons of 95" builds running around with gazillion miles; no reliability issues.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #19  
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be honest about your hp/tq goals and you ll narrow down your options quicker. Im puttn down 101/106 and already want more,lol
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by djl
88" and 96" stock bore is 3.750"; 95" and 103" bore is 3.875"; the additional cubic inches comes from the stroke increase from 4" to 4.375".

No issues with boring from 3.750' to 3.875"; tons of 95" builds running around with gazillion miles; no reliability issues.
So I've been misunderstanding this. I thought the bore and piston size was increased to get the cubes. So your saying the piston rod is also changed to increase stroke?
 
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