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Good low torque end combo

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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 10:07 PM
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Default Good low torque end combo

Alright so I decided instead of dumping money into my car and killing the gas mileage even more I would spend my tax return on my bike since I can actually ride her more often now.

That being said I really don't know what any good combos are for low-mid torque where I actually spend my time cruising around town at. I have a couple of options in mind but I really want to set my budget at what I have after my tax return and whatever I get from cashing in my extended warranty. So $2000 is a decent number.

I was thinking about just going with bolt in cams and porting the stock heads and calling it a day. That way I can always wait till the engine wears down and then bore it out and add some stronger springs and pushrods down the road. My local dealership has a somewhat decent deal on boring out the stock jugs to 103" but it doesn't include a dyno run which is about $380. The bore job is $999 including labor. And lastly another option is one of the many 103,106 or 107" kits online. I've seen some decent 103" kits and I have looked at the Revtech 106" and Fuel Moto 107" kits. I've heard all the good and bad about both and they're still an option at this point but I don't know if they will provide what I'm looking for.

At the end of the day I just want a street happy bike that can pull when I twist the throttle and sounds mean at idle but I would like to keep the gas mileage decent... my car sounds mean as hell but right now I average 14mpg on a good day so even 20-30 with the bike as an average would be great. Also I've heard high compression engines don't like low RPM cruising because of detonation so that's one issue I'm worried about.

If I'm way off on anything let me know. I have a few weeks before I start buying parts. As a side note my buddys dad works at a well known bike shop and is a very good dyno tuner. He said he would love to work on my bike and I could send him the jugs or whatever to get work done so I may ride down and see what he can do if it's cheap enough. Even if he doesn't work on the bike I can hopefully get some CR575 cams from him for a good price.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 05:30 AM
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just subscribed to see the advice good luck
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 06:59 AM
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I have the std SE stg II 103 kit with 255 cams and a flash from the dealer-all straight out of the catalogue. It pulls well at the low end and is good for 2 up riding. It runs out before you hit the rev limiter, but I've only done that to see what happens. I didn't have to do anything with the heads, don't have a tuner nor did I spend $$$ on a dyno. I get a little over 40 mpg. Runs great including 60-65 in 6th gear. It turns over hard when its hot and I have been riding for a couple of hours, but it has always started. Synthetic oil helped that. Lotta folks say there are better setups, but I am happy with it. I have never wished I would have done something different and I have been running it for 2 yrs. Good luck, its a pretty overwhelming choice when you start looking.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 09:39 AM
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I'd look into the Fuel Moto 107 kit.

Drew
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Kadorja
...after my tax return and whatever I get from cashing in my extended warranty.
Sorry to get a little off the main topic but...

...you can cash in an extended warranty? How much do you get for it?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by str8jacket
Sorry to get a little off the main topic but...

...you can cash in an extended warranty? How much do you get for it?
I cashed out 2 yrs on a 5 year plan when I traded a bike some years ago. It was prorated out, seemed like it was a hundred bucks maybe a little more. Wasn't huge, but I got something for it.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 11:06 AM
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Both me and my dad got our bikes around the same time.. his maybe a month earlier if that. Same price for the warranty and he just cashed his in for $600. Not a bad deal depending on the time you cash it in. I've heard people cashing theirs in if they total out their rides and the insurance pays for it.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 02:39 PM
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Head porting will mostly help mid and upper range performance without downgrading low end performance. The low end performance, i.e., torque is generated by compression and displacement. If budget got tight and the choice was between increasing displacement to 103" or head porting; make the choice on where you want the performance boost.

If you do have headwork don, look for a "Stage I" or "street port" job that will include a 1.9" intake valve, new bronze guides and a Serdi type fully radiused valve job.

Run the compression numbers for the CR575, or whatever cam you have selected and have the heads setup for corrected compression of somewhere between 9.0-9.3 and keep cranking compression below 190psi.

A good tune to top it off and you're done. Get out the pencil and paper and get it built on paper first, so you don't get caught halfway through the process and run out of money. Not sure what is included in the $999 big bore job but seems a bit steep to me. Boring your cylinders should run about $120 and a set of SE cast flat top pistons retails for $175; add gaskets and oil and the rest, about $500 is labor. At $75/hour, that's almost 7 hours; a big bore job in my neck of the woods runs about 4 hours for labor. The dealer is not gouging but, particularly in the offf season, you should be able to get that job done for $850. Some dealers offer much better deals in the off season but maybe you live in Florida or somewhere that doesn't have an off season.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by djl
Head porting will mostly help mid and upper range performance without downgrading low end performance. The low end performance, i.e., torque is generated by compression and displacement. If budget got tight and the choice was between increasing displacement to 103" or head porting; make the choice on where you want the performance boost.

If you do have headwork don, look for a "Stage I" or "street port" job that will include a 1.9" intake valve, new bronze guides and a Serdi type fully radiused valve job.

Run the compression numbers for the CR575, or whatever cam you have selected and have the heads setup for corrected compression of somewhere between 9.0-9.3 and keep cranking compression below 190psi.

A good tune to top it off and you're done. Get out the pencil and paper and get it built on paper first, so you don't get caught halfway through the process and run out of money. Not sure what is included in the $999 big bore job but seems a bit steep to me. Boring your cylinders should run about $120 and a set of SE cast flat top pistons retails for $175; add gaskets and oil and the rest, about $500 is labor. At $75/hour, that's almost 7 hours; a big bore job in my neck of the woods runs about 4 hours for labor. The dealer is not gouging but, particularly in the offf season, you should be able to get that job done for $850. Some dealers offer much better deals in the off season but maybe you live in Florida or somewhere that doesn't have an off season.

Yeah I'm down in FL. Even higher up north its almost 70 out today. Bikes all over the place. I went to the dealership and they're still doing the $999 anytime big bore upgrade but the guy I talked to didn't seem to know a lot about it. He was mostly into the book behind the counter and ordering parts. They told me to come back and talk to one of their techs who was good at building motors. I'm pretty interested in the Fuel Moto 107 kit since it comes with TW-555s or 777s and all the lifters and pushrods. I'm getting a quote on a few kits and seeing what their tech says on making some good low end power.

I want to try to get some sort of deal on the labor or parts if I can. Either a winter (somewhat) deal or military discount possibly. Their other place knocked off 10% from the battery I bought since I'm military. If I get some cheap parts from my buddys dad then I wont really expect much on the labor end... I know most places don't like it when you bring in your own parts. Hopefully he will suggest a few ways to go about this and see what I want/can afford... it would be nice to hang with bigger bore motors and say I still am just a 96" but its also nice to say I'm running a 107" engine.



Oh also as for the extended warranty the service department at my dads dealership did all the paperwork for him but I guess I have to call my extended service provider and cancel it on my own. It took him about 4 weeks to get his check in the mail.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 01:35 AM
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One of the dealers had a winter special 2yrs ago, 103 SE BB kit with 255's installed and free dyno when done,$1800. If U had the SERT already.

Prob a little more $$ now but its worth checking into. Usually they do them DEC-March. but not all have specials.
 
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