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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 2010Deluxeguy
Dean, Im thinking Im gonna take the fender completely off because I need to replace the one crossthreaded insert anyway.
If the 2010 fender is like an 04 rear fender, you don't have to take the fender off to replace the threaded inserts. I just recently changed to a Heritage rear fender with a 160 tire without jacking the bike up or removing the rear wheel.

There's also actually quite a bit of room to reach up in there between the fender and the back of the tire to remove the tail light and turn signals without removing the fender.

I'm curious about the piece that you're adding to your fender. Are you making a stretched fender? Any more info about the piece you are adding?
 

Last edited by str8jacket; Jan 29, 2012 at 12:16 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #12  
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I cross threaded one a couple years ago and just ran a tap back through it and it was fine. I believe its a 1/2-13
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Motown Strag
I cross threaded one a couple years ago and just ran a tap back through it and it was fine. I believe its a 1/2-13
1/2" fender bolts? mine are 5/16.

If only the first few threads are damaged from cross threading, it would probably be ok to clean it up with a tap. If the threads are damaged most or all the way through, probably not a good idea to cut it again with a tap, you might get the bolt to thread in but there wouldn't be much strength left in it.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:26 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by str8jacket
1/2" fender bolts? mine are 5/16.

If only the first few threads are damaged from cross threading, it would probably be ok to clean it up with a tap. If the threads are damaged most or all the way through, probably not a good idea to cut it again with a tap, you might get the bolt to thread in but there wouldn't be much strength left in it.

Yeah I should stop trying to remember stuff and just check. Its actualy 3/8-16 on my bike. As for the strength I dont think the threads do much do they? Isnt it more for vertical loads? The threads just pull the strut and fender together. Also there are several other bolts so I dont think it would be an issue. If you tighten the bolt after chasing the threads and it torques out without the threads pulling loose then you will have the answer.

Anyway, worked ok for me but if the insert is roached then thats that.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:20 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Motown Strag
As for the strength I dont think the threads do much do they? Isnt it more for vertical loads?
That's true enough. I guess I think about it differently since I have saddlebags hanging on mine. If you're not hanging bags on them, there really isn't much load on the threads.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:08 PM
  #16  
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Alright, took the bike out for a few hours today as it was 60 here in colorado. Got home with a little time to spare so I thought what the hell, lets get this damn fender off. Took the seat off all by myself for the first time lmao. I know, right? Baby steps. Ok, so with the seat off I can see the tailight harness plug so I unplug that. Really startin to feel like a mechanic at this point (not so much). Off come the two torx bolts at the front of the strut, then the four allen head bolts that Ive removed (and crossthreaded) before. This time piece of cake. So Im thinking the fender is gonna fall right off at this point, but no. I found the lil plastic plug at the top of the ECM that holds it to the fender. Take that out and we're home free. Well give the fender a few tugs and nope, aint comin. I notice one of the (dont know what to call it) bars with the threads on it hanging out from behind the fender. I reach back there and pull it out, and proceed to pull out the other three and wouldnt you know it, the fender slides right out. Once I got the fender out I was able to remove the tombstone and unbolt the signal light bar. Only problem is I have to read in the manual how to disassemble a deutch plug because you cant pull the wires for the signals through the lil hole that they pass through in the fender. Looking at the one thread that is damaged, I think I can fix it up with a tap, if not, it cant be too much to replace the (whatever its called). So, Im waiting for the Baddad extended fender to show up on tuesday so I can lay it out over the old fender and see where it needs to be cut. I have to make a hole in the old fender so the lighting module can sit inside the old fender when the new one goes over the top. The very bottom of the old fender has to be cut as well because the new fender has a stud that mounts to the baggertail crossover strut which connects the left and right lower bag mount brackets. The only thing I really dont have figured out now is what kind of plugs the new fender is going to come with. Its made for a softail so Im praying its gonna be a direct plug and play, but something tells me that it cant be that easy. We'll see on Tuesday. The extended saddlebags should be done and be ready for shipping by the end of the week, so I'll keep y'all posted. Oh, and Motown, you are correct the second time, the bolts are 3/8-16 ask me how I know this lol. Had to replace one of them when it stripped out trying to get it out when I installed the baggertail mounts. So I think I learned something today. The bolts come out easier when its 60 degrees than they do when its 30 degrees. Was pretty cold when I installed the baggertail mounts.
 
Attached Thumbnails new rear fender-img_0646.jpg   new rear fender-wiring-harness-right-side-right-in-front-of-strut-1-.jpg   new rear fender-whatchamacallits-that-the-stut-bolts-thread-into.jpg   new rear fender-inside-of-fender-after-taking-off-the-plastic-cover.jpg   new rear fender-ecm-1-.jpg  

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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:44 PM
  #17  
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Awesome dude!!! Sounds like it went pretty smoothly. So worse case you may need one of the backer plates (pic 3) to fix the threads if the tap doesn't work? I think you should run it without a rear fender and start a new trend!

 
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