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Bulb is most likely a separate issue: either the filament in bulb is broken,incorrect bulb installed or there is a brake switch problem.
The battery: highly unlikely that 20 minutes with switch powered would kill the battery unless battery is in poor condition or bike has lights like a christmas tree. Consider a free load test on battery at an autoshop. Consider review of charging system with cheap digital meter..check both ends of battery positive cable and both ends of negative cable..jumping the battery multiple times can kill the electrical system and cost big money..
Do not add ANYTHING electrical until the present situation is resolved.
NOTE: that a taillight burning out is sometimes a sign of too much voltage..like a voltage regulator taking a dump.
So should i just go ahead and take it to the dealership and see whats going on? The one closest to my house is HD of north texas but I bought the bike in allen. I trust the techs up at north texas more and the warentee should still be accepted by them, yes?
So should i just go ahead and take it to the dealership and see whats going on? The one closest to my house is HD of north texas but I bought the bike in allen. I trust the techs up at north texas more and the warentee should still be accepted by them, yes?
If you have a volt meter you can check the charging voltage that your battery is seeing. First check the battery with the ignition turned off. You should see a little over 12 volts across the +/- terminals. If you can get the bike started check the voltage (at the 3k min RPM's) you should be seeing over 13.5 volts give or take a little. If not then it may be your stator is not functioning properly. If you have had the bike on a battery tender and it's not reading at least 12+ volts you make have a shorted cell.
So should i just go ahead and take it to the dealership and see whats going on? The one closest to my house is HD of north texas but I bought the bike in allen. I trust the techs up at north texas more and the warentee should still be accepted by them, yes?
True that U can damage the electronics by hooking up to a car battery, but it used to said the the higher charging system of a car can made the leads in a motorcycle battery over heat. Thus each time U do that it can cause the main leads inside the battery flake off and get smaller each time that can lead to early battery failure.
If U do take it to the dealer I probably would volunteer info about jump starting it.
Never heard about the 3k rpm's before the system starts before.???
Sounds very similar to my problem I had last year with my 09 Fatboy with 25K miles on her. I was going along fine, then my 6 gear indicator and check engine light did some magic light tricks for about 10 minutes. then the check engine light came on. I got it home and noticed my headlight was out. So, I replaced the headlight. Started it back up, and it seemed fine. Went to go to work the next day, started right up, but about 3 minutes down the road the check engine light came on. Not trusting it, I parked it and took the car. Took it to the shop and it turns out the stator was bad. Apparently the stators are known to go out in the 20-25K mile range. There was also a bad rear O2 sensor. My guess is that when the stator blew, it took the headlight and O2 sensor with it. They replaced those under warranty and I've been good for about 8K miles since then.
the video in the post above seems solid. Check your voltage, because one of those components aren't working properly. My guess is either a bad cell in the battery or a bad stator.
I've never seen or heard of an issue coming from a car charging a motorcycle. Both are 12 volt systems. High school electronics class tells me that volts are "pushed" where amps are "pulled" or "drawn." So, as long as the volts match up, it doesn't matter that you're revving your car engine. The system will pull whatever amps it needs as long as the source can deliver it.
Get your stuff fixed under warranty and don't worry about what caused it. Just bad timing.
One thing to keep in mind, the charging system does not kick in until the rpm reaches 3000.
WRONG, if that was the case,my bike would never recharge the battery.
Try putting a volt meter on the battery, then start the engine you'll see it charges with it running on tick over,increase the revs to about 1200rpm at it will charge at it's maximum.
I've never seen or heard of an issue coming from a car charging a motorcycle. Both are 12 volt systems. High school electronics class tells me that volts are "pushed" where amps are "pulled" or "drawn." So, as long as the volts match up, it doesn't matter that you're revving your car engine. The system will pull whatever amps it needs as long as the source can deliver it.
Well I will stop by and get a tender within the next few days and make sure that the battery gets a full charge and go from there. Thank you everyone for the idvice and I will keep ya'll posted on what the outcome is.
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