Battery issues maybe more?
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 324
Likes: 1
From: USA
I think at the very least there is some diminished capacity when these small batteries are allowed to discharge to the point where they won't crank the motor. I believe you minimize damage (and depending on how old it is) by slow charging it back to health. Just letting the bike charge it back up while riding is probably harder on it than slow charging.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 14
From: Western MD
Charging system does not "kick in" at 3k, and does not "lock in". The alternator provides less output at lower rpm because of the limitations of the system to produce electricity at low rpm, simple as that.
With these small batteries, when it is discharged to the point that it won't turn the motor over, it really needs to be slow charged at 2 amps or less back to full capacity. Charging it faster (higher amperage) can cause a diminished capacity. At normal running rpm, the bikes charging system provides significantly more than 2 amps.
A cars charging system charges at the same voltage as a Harley. The battery actually acts as a large resistor in the system that keeps the voltage under 14v. Disconnecting a battery cable while an engine is running will cause the charging system voltage to jump up as high as 17v. Jumping a Harley from a car that is running will NOT cause any bulbs to burn out.
It is possible for a cars alternator (if it's a high output alternator) to cause damage to a bike's charging system if you rev the car's motor while jumping a bike from a car. As long as the car is only idling, it is not producing high enough output to do any damage.
Cars still charge all the time, regardless of accel or decel. As far as hybrids go, you are confusing the battery in the engine compartment (the one that powers the ignition, lights, and starter motor) with the battery bank that powers the electric drive. The regular automotive battery in the engine compartment is always kept fully charged. The battery bank for the electric drive is charged differently. Hybrids have a special braking system that converts kinetic energy (inertia) into to electricity to charge that battery bank. That's not the only way the battery bank gets charged though. It also gets charged on demand by the charging system.
With these small batteries, when it is discharged to the point that it won't turn the motor over, it really needs to be slow charged at 2 amps or less back to full capacity. Charging it faster (higher amperage) can cause a diminished capacity. At normal running rpm, the bikes charging system provides significantly more than 2 amps.
A cars charging system charges at the same voltage as a Harley. The battery actually acts as a large resistor in the system that keeps the voltage under 14v. Disconnecting a battery cable while an engine is running will cause the charging system voltage to jump up as high as 17v. Jumping a Harley from a car that is running will NOT cause any bulbs to burn out.
It is possible for a cars alternator (if it's a high output alternator) to cause damage to a bike's charging system if you rev the car's motor while jumping a bike from a car. As long as the car is only idling, it is not producing high enough output to do any damage.
Cars still charge all the time, regardless of accel or decel. As far as hybrids go, you are confusing the battery in the engine compartment (the one that powers the ignition, lights, and starter motor) with the battery bank that powers the electric drive. The regular automotive battery in the engine compartment is always kept fully charged. The battery bank for the electric drive is charged differently. Hybrids have a special braking system that converts kinetic energy (inertia) into to electricity to charge that battery bank. That's not the only way the battery bank gets charged though. It also gets charged on demand by the charging system.
no i wasn't confusing the hybrid battery with the basic battery. i replaced my fair share of both on civics. when i think hybrid, i think about and assume(my fault) that everyone thinks about the large battery pack in the rear of the vehicle. The basic battery on a hybrid is charged through a DC-DC converter which is controlled by another computer separate from the eng PCM.. there is no alternator or starter on a hybrid. The Stator and rotor, ( which is very similiar to the charging system on the harleys) is sandwiched between the eng and transmission provides torque for accel and power to recharge the main hybrid battery on decel. its a simple yet complicated system.
replacing the SE compensator on my bike a few weeks back reminded me of the special tool i use for replacing rotors on the civic hybrids. you definitely need a special tool on those to pull the rotor.. they have so much magnetic pull on them, its physically impossible to pull it out without the tool.. and you damm well don't want to try and install it without the tool either.. you will loose a finger or two.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 943
Likes: 41
I dont keep it on a tender because I ride all the time. The bike never sits longer than a few days a week at most cause I do ride it. The terminals are spotless from what I could tell yesterday there is no coorosion or anything of that nature. Yes I had to use a car to jump because that was the only thing avalible to me.
Thread Starter
|
Supporter
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
From: Lewisville, TX
UPDATE:
Went to the dealership this morning and they checked out the charging system. The battery apparently is starting to go but is still passing all of the factory tests. The starter and voltage regulator are just fine. They advised me to keep the bike on the tender/charger when not in use and if there are any more problems to bring it back in. My warentee will still cover the battery till august so lets just hope it dies before then and I dont have to pay for a new one. I hate having to half *** something and just wait for it to fail but unless i just want to up and buy a new battery I dont have a choice. I am just glad there were no other problems found. oh, and the running light in the tail light decided to work just fine again lol. Luckily the eliminator is in the mail and I dont have to worry about bulbs here soon.
Went to the dealership this morning and they checked out the charging system. The battery apparently is starting to go but is still passing all of the factory tests. The starter and voltage regulator are just fine. They advised me to keep the bike on the tender/charger when not in use and if there are any more problems to bring it back in. My warentee will still cover the battery till august so lets just hope it dies before then and I dont have to pay for a new one. I hate having to half *** something and just wait for it to fail but unless i just want to up and buy a new battery I dont have a choice. I am just glad there were no other problems found. oh, and the running light in the tail light decided to work just fine again lol. Luckily the eliminator is in the mail and I dont have to worry about bulbs here soon.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 383
Likes: 2
From: New Jersey
Hey, if ya want to kill the battery while it is still under warrenty just keep doing the leaving the ignition on till the battery is dead trick.
Then only partially charge it with the Battery Tender, and ride it around, then let it sit a while, then do it all over again.
The warrenty doesn't obligate you to keep the battery on a Tender otherwise the company would have to supply one with each bike purchased.
The battery should only last a few more of those sessions! lol
Then only partially charge it with the Battery Tender, and ride it around, then let it sit a while, then do it all over again.
The warrenty doesn't obligate you to keep the battery on a Tender otherwise the company would have to supply one with each bike purchased.
The battery should only last a few more of those sessions! lol
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Having battery issues!!! Please help... Have 2005 Ultra that is now going on it's 4th battery... Each time the battery has gone back I have removed the fill caps to only find that there is not a drop of acid in them... I susspect that this one will be the same way... Took the battery to a local auto parts store and it checks out good but needs a recharge... The volt meter on the bike never has shown that it is over charging, has never gone over 14.5 volts yet all the previous batteries have been bone dry... Has anybody else ran into this problem??? Any suggestions sure would be appreciated...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MNtadpole
Electrical/Lighting/Alarm
11
Dec 7, 2016 07:56 AM
SoCalSoftailSlim
General Harley Davidson Chat
24
Jul 28, 2014 11:24 PM
