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Aaarrgh! Crappy torx screw stripped!

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Old May 10, 2012 | 10:04 AM
  #61  
Dew Me's Avatar
Dew Me
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Originally Posted by Wabbit
I had to drill the heads off and it worked out fine. I started with smaller bits and worked my way up, just went slow and avoided over heating the bit.
No concerns about drilling the cover or messing up the threads in the primary? How do you know when to stop drilling? Will the head literally pop off?
 
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Old May 10, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Dew Me
No concerns about drilling the cover or messing up the threads in the primary? How do you know when to stop drilling? Will the head literally pop off?
Nope. The final bit should only be the size of the bolt itself, the threaded end, not the head. When you get to the right depth and width, the head just pops off like a little ring. Then you take off the cover and the only thing left is the nub of the bolt. Use vise grips and twist if out. Went much easier than I expected.
 
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Old May 10, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #63  
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rwheeler54
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this is the ol poor boy way of doing this. i had one that was on EXTREMELY tight . stripped the head. tried so many different things and ended up getting pissed and putting some dents in some things. but i just took a regular drill and drill bit. put it in reverse and gave it HELL. the bit warmed up the screw which made it easier to come out. after about 30 seconds the bolt came right out.

Just some info for future people who may have problems with this and want to try and get it done fast.
 
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Old May 10, 2012 | 05:15 PM
  #64  
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I just went through this when i had to remove the right side floorboard on a FLSTN to put on Fatcat pipe. I thank god i had a 3/8s air impact. I never thought i would have to use it. That white crap they put on at the factory bolts is crazy. I had to wait 3 days for new bolts. I cleaned the the new bolts free of the white crap and ran a tap in the threads. I would love to meet the guy on the assembly line in a dark alley that puts that crap on the bolts....
 
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