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i bought a impact driver and a good Snap-On 27 torx socket. oh and i'll have to take the socket back and have it replaced the splines are twisted and mangled.
Good to know Snap-On does that too. Mine is twisted as well but I thought it was low quality.
Surprised at all the people reporting no problems. I know I'm the only one that has ever touched that primary. Damn near stripped 2 heads first time around. I somehow managed to talk them into coming out and bought two new ones. Next time around striped one. Today doing it again and stripped the second head I touched. Put the first screw back in and walked away. Oh, and I have ALWAYS used a high quality needle type inch pound torque wrench so they ain't over tightened as many have surmised. I think they are either crap screws or at the very least crappy head type. Maybe both. I need to put something better on there, I don't want to go through this crap again. It's really irritating. Little bit like Groundhog Day.
When I change my primary oil I always remove the cover before draining oil. That way it you have a problem removing a screw you can reinstall the other screw and still ride the bike.
When removing these screws keep pressure on the torx bit and turn the wrench slowly with even pressure.
Damn things did it to me again!!! Not totally sure if it is the screws or my socket. Socket splines are a little twisted, which happens waaaay too much and according to someone here happens even on Snap-On torx sockets. I got one off, brought it with me hoping to find something with a different head at Home Depot during lunch so I don't have this problem again. Can only get one off and I use a torque wrench so I am not over tightening.
This is after installing a new Clutch cable so this leaves my bike inoperable.
Stupid torx. Under theory the should be great but in practice they are the devil!
First off, I agree that torx screws suck. Just wondering if you guys having all the problems are using loktite on the threads....I have never used it on my deby cover screws (or any torx screws) and have had Zero leaks. If you are using it, STOP! You don't need it. Also, when I remove a torx I use one hand to push on the ratchet head creating maximum pressure on the bit, and the other hand to turn the handle. Works every time for me. I think the chrome screws might be a bit tougher also....just my 2 centavos.
So I bought Allen head screws and a new T-27 yesterday. No built-in washers and none with a small enough outside diameter, so I'm skipping washers. Anyone who thinks that is a mistake please let me know. I will have to grind down the bolts I think. I had a choice between a bit longer and a bit shorter and picked a bit longer. I don't know yet if there is room in the primary for a longer screw. Hmmmm, without the washer the smaller screw might have been the right length. Shoot...
So I said I got one off. The new bit allowed me to get 2 more off. Leaving two. Lots of fighting and I finally got one out with an extractor. Last one I'll fight with tonight. Guess I will have to drill the head off. I'm nervous about this though. Too small a bit doesn't seem like it'll help. Too big a bit if I don't stop soon enough seems like I could go too far and drill something I don't want to.
I have not used Loctite and will not use Loctite. I will for sure use anti-seize in the future. Considering the "snap" I hear when removing many bolts on my Harley I think anti-seize should become normal operating procedure. I've always used it for spark plugs, and have had a tube in the toolbox consistantly for 25 years. Previous to my Harley I've never really found any other needs for it other than the spark plugs.
I had to drill the heads off and it worked out fine. I started with smaller bits and worked my way up, just went slow and avoided over heating the bit.
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